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Old 06-17-2010, 05:36 PM   #5371
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Btw this is what I'm currently working on:



I really dislike the blade-type ARB, and almost bought a Serpent just because of the front wire type ARB the 733 has.
When the Capricorn set was released I decided to go for it and make it work on the NT1.
Received the set yesterday and it seems to be more of a challenge as I thought it would be.

I still have to machine the sides of the bulkheads so I can fasten the red bushings and have to make some carbon sideplates so I can fasten the top sides op the front bulkheads.
Had to cut the front off so make space for the ARB, but lost the two front mounting holes in the process.
Also planning on cutting two carbon plates for the downstop adjustment.

Planning on testing the system this Saturday.
post some pics, i was thinking of doing this to my car but couldnt find a way to doing it.
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Old 06-17-2010, 05:54 PM   #5372
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Btw this is what I'm currently working on:



I really dislike the blade-type ARB, and almost bought a Serpent just because of the front wire type ARB the 733 has.
When the Capricorn set was released I decided to go for it and make it work on the NT1.
Received the set yesterday and it seems to be more of a challenge as I thought it would be.

I still have to machine the sides of the bulkheads so I can fasten the red bushings and have to make some carbon sideplates so I can fasten the top sides op the front bulkheads.
Had to cut the front off so make space for the ARB, but lost the two front mounting holes in the process.
Also planning on cutting two carbon plates for the downstop adjustment.

Planning on testing the system this Saturday.
Good luck with that DS.
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:24 PM   #5373
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Eccenter is the adjustable cam which houses the bearing, it's eccentric, so called an eccenter.

The measurement shown in your picture is the bearing outside to outside measurement so 39.90.

I have the Capricorn diff gears and pins and Xray lightweight outdrives, but I forgot how much they weighed, it was around 20-25 grams lighter compared to a stock diff.

Edit: front diff 24 grams, rear diff 27 grams.

Would recommend the Capricorn diff gears if you want the plastic gears since they last and have been thoroughly tested, I've already seen multiple broken Xceed diff gears.



Rear diff is 28.6 outside bearing to outside bearing.
Thanks for the info.


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Old 06-19-2010, 05:02 AM   #5374
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HI guys quick question for anyone who knows.

Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
I`m looking for the pinions and the spurs and tire size.
Thanks guys.

I`ll be my first time there and i don`t want to be mucking around there whole day looking for the proper gearing.
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Old 06-19-2010, 07:09 AM   #5375
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Originally Posted by nitro ho View Post
HI guys quick question for anyone who knows.

Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
I`m looking for the pinions and the spurs and tire size.
Thanks guys.

I`ll be my first time there and i don`t want to be mucking around there whole day looking for the proper gearing.
when I was there for the Nats last year, we ran 17 23, 59 54. and for tires during quals we started ad 57 front 59 rear
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Old 06-19-2010, 08:02 AM   #5376
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when I was there for the Nats last year, we ran 17 23, 59 54. and for tires during quals we started ad 57 front 59 rear


Thanks D-nicest.
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Old 06-19-2010, 08:58 AM   #5377
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Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
You can also find setup sheets for toledo track on xray website, type "toledo" in their set-up search database...
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Old 06-20-2010, 04:38 PM   #5378
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Originally Posted by nitro ho View Post
HI guys quick question for anyone who knows.

Does anyone know what gearing do you use for the toledo track in Ohio?
I`m looking for the pinions and the spurs and tire size.
Thanks guys.

I`ll be my first time there and i don`t want to be mucking around there whole day looking for the proper gearing.
I would also look at Bobby Flack's setup for the GLC at Toledo. Bobby is super fast at the Toledo track.


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Old 06-22-2010, 05:43 AM   #5379
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Oil Diff conversion rate?

Hey guys, I have noticed that since NT1's diff are so small... a 60k in the rear actually feel like 20k-30k, or somewhere around there. Has anyone tried a full comparison between NT1's diffs and the diffs of cars like MTX4/RRR???

Like to say... if its half... And I would want 50k in my diff, I would use 100k in my rear diff.

Another example is that I am using Diff Locking Fluid upfront, and it only feels like 200k-300k.
i also want to know this, i am running 20k rear, 50k front.. what would be equivlent in the nt1 smaller diffs?

im thinking 50k rear, 100k front?
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Old 06-22-2010, 06:03 AM   #5380
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
i also want to know this, i am running 20k rear, 50k front.. what would be equivlent in the nt1 smaller diffs?

im thinking 50k rear, 100k front?
it also depends on the brand of oil you are using, my observations and opinions are below

if you are using xray oils in the NT1 diffs you need to take 50,000 off the bottles number
example - 80,000 is equal to approx 30,000.

i am currently running 200,000 xray oil in the front to achieve 150,000
and 80,000 xray oil in the rear to achieve 30,000
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Old 06-22-2010, 06:14 AM   #5381
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it also depends on the brand of oil you are using, my observations and opinions are below

if you are using xray oils in the NT1 diffs you need to take 50,000 off the bottles number
example - 80,000 is equal to approx 30,000.

i am currently running 200,000 xray oil in the front to achieve 150,000
and 80,000 xray oil in the rear to achieve 30,000
i run kyosho/mugen oil.. and they will be in a nt1 diff..

i run in a small, tight, low/mid traction track.
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Old 06-22-2010, 06:29 AM   #5382
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
i run kyosho/mugen oil.. and they will be in a nt1 diff..

i run in a small, tight, low/mid traction track.
when i tried mugen oil you need to take around 20,000 off the bottle number

eg - 50,000 to achieve 30,000

my suggestion for you to try would be 50,000 in the rear to achieve 30,000 feel
and 100,000 in the front to achieve 80,000 feel and if you require more steering increase the thickness of the front oil to 120,000 or 150,000
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:19 PM   #5383
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Finished and tested the front ARB today, took a bit longer because I had to travel to Germany for work.

But tested the system today and first results were positive.
Only drove it for 5 minutes because I arrived 1 hour before closing time.
It was very easy to setup the ARB and get the tweak out, just as easy as it is with the rear end.
The car was understeering because I started with the medium wire while I normally use the soft blades at their softest setting.
The differences were the car was more stable on turn in, felt more linear somehow.
But the biggest improvement was under hard braking, normally my car twitches a bit under hard braking but with the wire ARB this was completely gone.
I could brake harder and later and steering towards the apex while braking was easier.
So saturday I will try the soft ARB and I think this will get rid of the understeer. I also used the normal steering blocks on the wire-type front end while I normally run the 1 degree kingpin blocks. Will put these on the wire-type suspension as well.
Here some pictures of the finished system:





I used 3mm carbon for the downstop brackets and 1.5mm carbon as side brackets to connect the upper and lower bulkheads because I lost the front mounting holes for the upper bulkhead to make space for the ARB mounts.
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:32 PM   #5384
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Default sway bar

from the looks of the pictures did the sway bar rub the cvd
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:56 PM   #5385
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Nice job !
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