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Old 10-13-2011, 07:08 AM   #6121
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:56 AM   #6122
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Originally Posted by staikosn1 View Post
Ok, lets say it otherwords....
A set of mugen suspension fits in xray??
you don't need that!just clean your car for the next race!
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:05 AM   #6123
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The problem with that is different companies rate them differently. example the xray 28 lb spring is softer than the serpent 28 lb spring. They have choices as to where they take the averages. Some could take it at 1mm, others at 10mm.
Yeah, didn't think about that. But at least with those conversions you have a reference point. At the end, it all comes down to the "feeling" and track testing.
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:39 AM   #6124
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looking at buying an Xray and just wondering what is the differrnce between the 2010 wc and the 2011 car. can you retro fit the chassis onto the 2010 WC car to get the best of both cars
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:45 AM   #6125
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looking at buying an Xray and just wondering what is the differrnce between the 2010 wc and the 2011 car. can you retro fit the chassis onto the 2010 WC car to get the best of both cars
The 2011 chassis is reverse compatible with all 2011 -2007 models (I would guess the 2011 chassis will be on the 2012 car also). In our region the rain season is here, Unless your somewhere it isn't fall/ winter off season I would suggest waiting and checking out what the 2012 revisions are if there are any before you purchase unless your sitting on a great deal at the moment.

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Old 10-14-2011, 02:10 AM   #6126
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you don't need that!just clean your car for the next race!
Yeap... thats the procedure im working those days..
But i was thinking to set up them just for back up!!

Another question....
Does that fits to nt1?? M-Mod Alum. Case Receiver Water Resistant
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Old 10-14-2011, 02:00 PM   #6127
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The 2011 chassis is reverse compatible with all 2011 -2007 models (I would guess the 2011 chassis will be on the 2012 car also). In our region the rain season is here, Unless your somewhere it isn't fall/ winter off season I would suggest waiting and checking out what the 2012 revisions are if there are any before you purchase unless your sitting on a great deal at the moment.

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the only reason i ask is that amain hobbies in the US have the 2010WC for $554us that's all
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:22 PM   #6128
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the only reason i ask is that amain hobbies in the US have the 2010WC for $554us that's all
It is a great deal at that price, but no one I know knows for sure what 2012 will bring for the NT1. I know the list of things that COULD be in the next car, or they could say that the NT1 isn't in need of updates from the 2011 car and just add the T3 composite diff gears and call it good. But things like wire swaybars, new brake mechanisms, and geometry revisions are things I am hoping make it into production. I would be satisfied with ball raced wire swaybars front/ rear. If you have the cash burning a hole in your pocket go for it, it's a great deal at that price point (35 bucks over the cost of the std kit)
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Old 10-14-2011, 04:02 PM   #6129
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It is a great deal at that price, but no one I know knows for sure what 2012 will bring for the NT1. I know the list of things that COULD be in the next car, or they could say that the NT1 isn't in need of updates from the 2011 car and just add the T3 composite diff gears and call it good. But things like wire swaybars, new brake mechanisms, and geometry revisions are things I am hoping make it into production. I would be satisfied with ball raced wire swaybars front/ rear. If you have the cash burning a hole in your pocket go for it, it's a great deal at that price point (35 bucks over the cost of the std kit)
then the question begs to be asked "what options have you used from the 2010 to the 2011 car and then work out the price difference compared to say buying what could be on the 2012 car
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:23 AM   #6130
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Any chance to be interchangable the CVDs from mugen??
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:56 AM   #6131
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Any chance to be interchangable the CVDs from mugen??

any chance to leave that NT1 alone and don't turn it in a Frankenstein toy?
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:04 AM   #6132
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then the question begs to be asked "what options have you used from the 2010 to the 2011 car and then work out the price difference compared to say buying what could be on the 2012 car
Honestly the 2010 car was very quick if that is the car you have currently you could stick with that and still be quick(which car do you have currently?). The biggest difference between the wc and the 2011 is the clutch. Between the wc clutch and the light weight t3 composite gears they will net you the biggest performance difference. My option part list is basically the WC car without the aluminum front swaybar mounts. Depending on the track and the grip level I play around with al radio tray supports, graphite or plastic battery tray and cut and uncut topdecks. Overall it's nice to have all the light weight bits, but you really have to ask yourself if your using all of the potential of the base car. I have seen a lot of people that buy Ti screws and all the options yet would likely benefit from buying a gallon of fuel, a couple boxes of tires and a lot of practice/ testing more than all the new fancy parts. But if your driving is there then grabbing the wc kit wouldn't be a bad idea. Run that chassis till it's worn out or bent, then switch to the 2011 chassis. It is nice to have the ballast at chassis level but that comes with a bit of a flex trade off.

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Any chance to be interchangable the CVDs from mugen??
If I recall they can be used with the mugen pivot balls, the mugen front upright and whatnot. But the mugen plastic is more brittle.
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:11 AM   #6133
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double post
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:26 PM   #6134
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any chance to leave that NT1 alone and don't turn it in a Frankenstein toy?

No the thimg is that the CVD at xray is 40$ one piece.....
Maybe ill go with Capricorn!!
Somebody use them??
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Old 10-16-2011, 01:02 PM   #6135
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No the thimg is that the CVD at xray is 40$ one piece.....
Maybe ill go with Capricorn!!
Somebody use them??
If you use cap parts they are a direct fit, however I wouldn't use aluminum shafts in front. If you do use aluminum shafts I have heard of them failing in the rear under load after x % of a gallon of fuel so guys were changing them out early. That would probably be a better way to go than mugen parts imo.
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