Guys remember the rear shock were initially developed for the Electric cars hence the set of 4.

Brad i wouldn't worry too much about the length of the springs, just use them at the front for now. Graham (from Moorebank track) got the springs tested on one of those spring machines at a specialist and all the readings were of by 1 or 2 pounds so really just use the colours as a guide, but don't think for example that the shorter front springs that say they are "28.5" compared to the rears "28" are actually that ".5" stiffer. in most cases they probably aren't. they might be in reality a "29 pound" or a "28"

if you are really iffy, just get a set of fronts, but i don't bother with it to be honest most times. i got some of the short versions just for big events so it doesn't play on my mind.

is there still free shipping ?

Ok cool, thanks Tom. I like the idea of getting the shorter front springs for big events so it doesn't play mind games with you. One less thing to think/worry about is always a good thing

Hi TomB,

what is your method to tune the clutch? The instruction manual gives 10 to 11 mm distance for the sloted nut. I'm screwing it to 10.5 mm always. Some poeple recommend to screw in the nut for engaging on very high rpm, e.g. 11 mm. Other people (former e-car driver) are turning the nut to 10 mm for smooth operation.

Could you please discuss the following with me: The CG at the NT1 is appr. 15 mm over the chassis plate. So the pivot balls are lower than the CG. Replacing the heavy steel balls by those made of Ti has the effect to raise the CG, not to lower it. How do you think about this?

Thanks and best regards,

Hamfri

I'd love to have that discussion about clutch setup as I'm still trying to understand it.

I don't think replacing the pivot balls with lighter pivot balls will raise the center of gravity given that most of the weight will be lower on the chassis. Just my opinion. I have replaced my pivot balls with the lighter balls and haven't had to change any of my roll center settings.

changing the pivot balls to lighter titanium ones just reduces the unspprung weight of the arms, allowing quicker change in directions and reaction of input. Be careful though with the 3 racing and the rc hobby type pivot balls on rc market. i bought these, and they aren't as strong as the mugen titanium pivot balls. i found one was bent and it affected the tracking of the car in a straight line. i ended up replacing both sides at the from with the steel ones for safety sake.

with the clutch it really depends on the track. A lot of people laughed at me when i had issues with the xray clutch at my track about 1 year ago. The thing is now alot of people at my track are choping and changing parts in the xray clutch, whilst some have changed it completely to the sirio clutch. funny thing is i have it tuned ok now, and a fellow xray racer (kickass) uses the standard clutch also to good effect. I found the best thing was the alluminium bell, it eliminated all my clutch tuning issues, and made it easier to find a wider sweet spot. i can't stress enough how good it works witha yellow shoe i really don't think the steel bell is any good, it was the reason for me burning so many yellow shoes...it just doesn't grip the shoe well! i think it is the hard anodising treatment they have given the bell.

set it up per instructions but the trick is to take the smaller pinion of and measure the gap with a set of feelers like these


make sure that with no internal bearing installed and the outside small bearing and other elements screwed in you have a gap between the bell edge and the large nut of .90 to 1mm.

then just put the internal bearing in, and shim it until this gap is only.01mm in size, this means the internal gap between shoe and bell is .8mm and the endplay is .1mm.

clutch spring tension depends on the track. i ran 1mm tension at my track during saturday practice when it was slippery, 1mm tension on the harder xray spring seems like a good start (but i use the kyosho white flyweight)

you can also muck around with using the kyosho white flyweights (i use these) and the orion crf square spring (some people at my track use this spring. It depends on how you like the clutch. Punchy is good, but if your track is slippery maybe use the white standard clutch shoe for a bit more slip.

also, if you like a punchy clutch, but don't want too much kick in the rear end, go to a lower rear diff oil, maybe 30,000cst xray diff oil, and go to a higher front diff oil (maybe like 150,000cst xray)

anyway to sum up, i use;
-kyosho white flyweights (xray flip weights work well but when you have a large shoe to bell gap the holes tend to elongate and deform)
-xray hard spring
-aluminium clutch bell
-yellow shoe

yes !

source from redrc

Having previously released the precision made option parts for the 966 and NT1 in the past, Hong Kong based manufacturer CSO, have released their CNC machined 7075 T6 front bulkheads for the Xray NT1. The part will not only give extended rigidity and better overall balance at the front end, but also claims to offer more aggressive steering as well.
Source:www.cso.com.hk

you beauty

around next week !

New Clutch arrive !

After seeing how xray sell their parts i'm surprised to see it all in one packet How much will it go for?

What's the benefit of the new clutch?

smaller size !