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Old 07-16-2009, 12:37 PM   #4291
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Default Ti NT1 screw set

Is there any real advantage on using the Ti screws set ? Or is it just bling ?
What is the weight saving ? Any downtrade regarding durability or structural weakness ?

Thanks guys.
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:45 PM   #4292
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Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
I would advise to blow the track first with a blower
+1
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:52 PM   #4293
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Originally Posted by Cobra zz View Post
Is there any real advantage on using the Ti screws set ? Or is it just bling ?
What is the weight saving ? Any downtrade regarding durability or structural weakness ?

Thanks guys.
Postive : Ti screws are lighter, get no rust, bling2 factor.

Negative : Ti screws are easier to get bend and/or strip at the hex area.

Bottom chassis : Steel screws

Upper chassis : Ti screws.
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:39 PM   #4294
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So we must consider it only as a cool bling bling option, since using the screws only in the upper area will result in very small weight savings (maybe 10 to 15 grams), right ?

Thanks.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:56 PM   #4295
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Hey guys I have a very very lightly used 09' NT1 with a few optional parts I'm looking to move.
$350 US.
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Old 07-17-2009, 04:30 AM   #4296
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I would say that the saving is more than 15gr about 45-55gr. A least that was the saving to my previous car, where I replaced all the screws except the ones that go on the chassis.
When I built the NT1, I installed the titanium ones from the first time and I can't say the difference. I recommend the mugen ti screws, which are very high quality.
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Old 07-17-2009, 11:20 AM   #4297
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Sounds interesting...I will try it.

Thanks
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:00 AM   #4298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Postive : Ti screws are lighter, get no rust, bling2 factor.

Negative : Ti screws are easier to get bend and/or strip at the hex area.

Bottom chassis : Steel screws

Upper chassis : Ti screws.
Any reasons why you stay with steel at the bottom? I see some people do it but never understood why. ...

Cheers.
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:09 AM   #4299
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The car is already light. Most weight that needs to be added should be done at it's lowest point the chassis. The other reason is that that the steel screws are stronger than Ti.
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:41 AM   #4300
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Hi to all!

Titan has a density of 4,5 and steel of 7,9 grams per cm3. The weight of a standard screw M3x8 is appr. 0,7 gram. When replacing 40 screws the saving will be about 15 grams.

This alone shouldn't be felt when driving the NT1. But together with further modifications you will lower the CG and have a remarkable effects on the track.

Regards
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:19 AM   #4301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamfri View Post
Hi to all!

Titan has a density of 4,5 and steel of 7,9 grams per cm3. The weight of a standard screw M3x8 is appr. 0,7 gram. When replacing 40 screws the saving will be about 15 grams.

This alone shouldn't be felt when driving the NT1. But together with further modifications you will lower the CG and have a remarkable effects on the track.

Regards
initially if you wanted to save weight (or should i say lower it) i'd get a lipo and a brass tray. then to cut the weight down go:

-lighter drivetrain parts
-titanium pivot balls
-screws

in saying all of this though, it's best to focus on getting the clutch tuned just right, and to have the right shore tyres obviously

if i had to choose, i'd go for a lighter drivetrain straight up, then a lipo/brass tray combo. I would also get the aluminium clutch bell straight away, best thing i bought for the xray to date, clutch is a lot easier to tune now
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:12 PM   #4302
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I agree tomb. The clutch and 2 speed are very important to have set right to set fast laps. Once you do that then go for the weight saving measures. No point of having a really lite car that hardly moves cause the clutch isn't set right

On another note, i bought the xray purple (33lb) spring set and they are all the same length, which is the length of the longer rear shocks. Should i use all four on the car or is it a set of 4 rear springs? I assumed they were different sizes but on closer inspection found them all the same length. Not sure what to do
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:02 PM   #4303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB View Post
initially if you wanted to save weight (or should i say lower it) i'd get a lipo and a brass tray. then to cut the weight down go:

-lighter drivetrain parts
-titanium pivot balls
-screws

in saying all of this though, it's best to focus on getting the clutch tuned just right, and to have the right shore tyres obviously

if i had to choose, i'd go for a lighter drivetrain straight up, then a lipo/brass tray combo. I would also get the aluminium clutch bell straight away, best thing i bought for the xray to date, clutch is a lot easier to tune now
+1
where did you get the aluminum clutch bell?
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:14 PM   #4304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I agree tomb. The clutch and 2 speed are very important to have set right to set fast laps. Once you do that then go for the weight saving measures. No point of having a really lite car that hardly moves cause the clutch isn't set right

On another note, i bought the xray purple (33lb) spring set and they are all the same length, which is the length of the longer rear shocks. Should i use all four on the car or is it a set of 4 rear springs? I assumed they were different sizes but on closer inspection found them all the same length. Not sure what to do
The rear springs come in a set of 4.
The rear springs can also be used on the front.
The front springs are available separately in sets of 2.
The fronts in the same colour range as the rears are a bit stiffer (2-3 Lb).
I find it pretty stupid from xray to sell the springs like this, i now have a whole collection of rear springs which i will never use.
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:26 PM   #4305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
The rear springs come in a set of 4.
The rear springs can also be used on the front.
The front springs are available separately in sets of 2.
The fronts in the same colour range as the rears are a bit stiffer (2-3 Lb).
I find it pretty stupid from xray to sell the springs like this, i now have a whole collection of rear springs which i will never use.
Ok so they are a set of four rear shock springs And they can be used on the front Is there a benefit or a loss in using them on the front?

Yes it is weird but there must be a reason behind it. When i use them up front the collar has to be wound all the way to the top of the threads on the shock body and it's not held by much, which leaves me with not much ride height adjustment.
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