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Old 07-23-2009, 10:11 AM   #4321
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changing the pivot balls to lighter titanium ones just reduces the unspprung weight of the arms, allowing quicker change in directions and reaction of input. Be careful though with the 3 racing and the rc hobby type pivot balls on rc market. i bought these, and they aren't as strong as the mugen titanium pivot balls. i found one was bent and it affected the tracking of the car in a straight line. i ended up replacing both sides at the from with the steel ones for safety sake.

with the clutch it really depends on the track. A lot of people laughed at me when i had issues with the xray clutch at my track about 1 year ago. The thing is now alot of people at my track are choping and changing parts in the xray clutch, whilst some have changed it completely to the sirio clutch. funny thing is i have it tuned ok now, and a fellow xray racer (kickass) uses the standard clutch also to good effect. I found the best thing was the alluminium bell, it eliminated all my clutch tuning issues, and made it easier to find a wider sweet spot. i can't stress enough how good it works witha yellow shoe i really don't think the steel bell is any good, it was the reason for me burning so many yellow shoes...it just doesn't grip the shoe well! i think it is the hard anodising treatment they have given the bell.

set it up per instructions but the trick is to take the smaller pinion of and measure the gap with a set of feelers like these


make sure that with no internal bearing installed and the outside small bearing and other elements screwed in you have a gap between the bell edge and the large nut of .90 to 1mm.

then just put the internal bearing in, and shim it until this gap is only.01mm in size, this means the internal gap between shoe and bell is .8mm and the endplay is .1mm.

clutch spring tension depends on the track. i ran 1mm tension at my track during saturday practice when it was slippery, 1mm tension on the harder xray spring seems like a good start (but i use the kyosho white flyweight)

you can also muck around with using the kyosho white flyweights (i use these) and the orion crf square spring (some people at my track use this spring. It depends on how you like the clutch. Punchy is good, but if your track is slippery maybe use the white standard clutch shoe for a bit more slip.

also, if you like a punchy clutch, but don't want too much kick in the rear end, go to a lower rear diff oil, maybe 30,000cst xray diff oil, and go to a higher front diff oil (maybe like 150,000cst xray)

anyway to sum up, i use;
-kyosho white flyweights (xray flip weights work well but when you have a large shoe to bell gap the holes tend to elongate and deform)
-xray hard spring
-aluminium clutch bell
-yellow shoe
Thomas has almost got it right here with the clutch. If you run the original fly weights, crf spring and white shoe you need a small gap from shoe .2-.3 otherwise the flyweights crack at the hinge and they are bulshit expensive.
I too have been using keosho white fly weights, saving the xray ones for the big race (Mongara cup) with the 3 holes drilled, still .2 gap. This makes for an awsome agressive but smooth clutch, ha and people think its my engine.
Leave the diff oil kit 60 and just dial in rear toe, im up to 5deg at the moment on slip track, that then comes out when grip comes up. Remember what I say toe in is your best friend.
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Old 07-24-2009, 03:29 AM   #4322
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Thomas has almost got it right here with the clutch. If you run the original fly weights, crf spring and white shoe you need a small gap from shoe .2-.3 otherwise the flyweights crack at the hinge and they are bulshit expensive.
I too have been using keosho white fly weights, saving the xray ones for the big race (Mongara cup) with the 3 holes drilled, still .2 gap. This makes for an awsome agressive but smooth clutch, ha and people think its my engine.
Leave the diff oil kit 60 and just dial in rear toe, im up to 5deg at the moment on slip track, that then comes out when grip comes up. Remember what I say toe in is your best friend.
Good stuff man. the kyosho white shoes are teflon and y.ou can add weights in them to make them more responsive.
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:40 AM   #4323
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Is thread lock needed for some screws which the manual indicates to apply ?
And also is the shock absorber assembly tool , flywheel tool and pinion tools required?
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:17 AM   #4324
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Is thread lock needed for some screws which the manual indicates to apply ?
And also is the shock absorber assembly tool , flywheel tool and pinion tools required?
Where ever it tells you to put TL, put it. The tool isn't required, but it definitely helps to make it easier.
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Old 07-24-2009, 01:38 PM   #4325
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Seems that Martin Hudy is using some new Ti nitride shock shafts...
Am I right ?


events.redrc.net/wp-content/gallery/2009-110th-200mm-european-championships/fri-xraynt1hudy-1.jpg[/url]
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Old 07-24-2009, 01:57 PM   #4326
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Did Hudy drop the Xray Tires for Matrix ?
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Old 07-24-2009, 06:41 PM   #4327
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What does thread lock do? It glues the screw in place? How can i remove it?
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:28 AM   #4328
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What does thread lock do? It glues the screw in place? How can i remove it?
Yes, thread lock liquids locks the screw in place. Suitable for metal to metal contacts, but not metal to plastic ( it makes the plastic brittle ).

Tamiya sell blue thread lock liquids, it's low to medium strength.

Loctite sell red thread lock liquids, it's high strength, plz use very little with this type of liquids.
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:05 AM   #4329
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loctite 333 threadlock is the one best suited to rc applictions, there isn't a need for anything that dries any harder
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Old 07-25-2009, 07:44 AM   #4330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Yes, thread lock liquids locks the screw in place. Suitable for metal to metal contacts, but not metal to plastic ( it makes the plastic brittle ).

Tamiya sell blue thread lock liquids, it's low to medium strength.

Loctite sell red thread lock liquids, it's high strength, plz use very little with this type of liquids.
Please stay away from RED Loctite. They sell blue, which is strong enough to hold and can be removed with a regular hex driver. No fire needed, like the Red Loctite. You can get Blue Loctite from HD, Lowe's, or any other hardware store and some LHS.
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:22 AM   #4331
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I had a loctite problem yesterday, what a coincidence...

It was brake pulley adapter screw which was getting loose after some time no matter how hard I screwed it... So I finally put some Associated blue loctite to the screw and tightened it. It didnt got loose again.

So, I was rebuilding my car yesterday, I removed the screw but pulley adaptor was stuck to the shaft, like it still had the screw on. Anyone knows how can I remove it?
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:57 AM   #4332
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Just make it hot. If you can not use a flame or heatgun then use a solder iron to heat up the spot.
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:17 AM   #4333
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Originally Posted by musti72 View Post
I had a loctite problem yesterday, what a coincidence...

It was brake pulley adapter screw which was getting loose after some time no matter how hard I screwed it... So I finally put some Associated blue loctite to the screw and tightened it. It didnt got loose again.

So, I was rebuilding my car yesterday, I removed the screw but pulley adaptor was stuck to the shaft, like it still had the screw on. Anyone knows how can I remove it?
I think the pulley you are talking about is plastic.? Heat up the other end of the shaft until the whole shaft get's hot. Then slide off the pulley. Don't heat up the pulley (I use blow torch) because as in my case, you'll melt it.
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Old 07-25-2009, 10:37 AM   #4334
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I am talking about rear belt pulley adapter.

I tried gaslighter before, but it seems it doesnt help. I will try something produces more heat, and report you soon.
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Old 07-25-2009, 10:53 AM   #4335
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I quickly tried solder iron, and it worked.

After getting enough heat, I lightly tapped the adapter with a hammer, and it slided pretty easy. I cleaned that area of the shaft, but it still seems pretty rough there, and adapter doesnt move smoothly in that area. Some polish would solve the problem.

Thanks for the help
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