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Old 03-06-2008, 09:18 AM   #2806
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anybody have problem on belt mine keep breaking belt
Make sure that you have the right amount of tension on it and that you're running the correct tire split between front and rear. Also make sure that you're running on a smooth clean surface with little or no rocks etc. I have never had a belt break on me but I have found teeth missing on the middle belt before which is usually do to a rock or something getting in there.
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:40 AM   #2807
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anybody have problem on belt mine keep breaking belt
You might also want to check if your eccentric hubs are in the same position left and right be sure they didn't move on installation of the diffs.
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Old 03-06-2008, 07:23 PM   #2808
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can anybody tell me whether a 720 locker will fit in an nt1. just trying to save buying an xray if i dont need to.
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Old 03-06-2008, 07:36 PM   #2809
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try different tension. eccentric is even. our track have a little bumpy section
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:20 PM   #2810
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can anybody tell me whether a 720 locker will fit in an nt1. just trying to save buying an xray if i dont need to.
No different size
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:36 PM   #2811
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does anyone know if they are going to be fixing the problem of the pivot balls coming loose? imo, that is a pretty serious fault.
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:37 PM   #2812
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does anyone know if they are going to be fixing the problem of the pivot balls coming loose? imo, that is a pretty serious fault.
the current kits don't have this problem.
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:40 PM   #2813
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does anyone know if they are going to be fixing the problem of the pivot balls coming loose? imo, that is a pretty serious fault.
just put a little blue lock tight on each pivot ball and the problem will be fixed. i have about 3 gallons on my car with no issues.
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:44 PM   #2814
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does anyone know if they are going to be fixing the problem of the pivot balls coming loose? imo, that is a pretty serious fault.
A few post back someone suggested that loctite eat at the plastic so just as Rocc said put it on the threads of the pivot ball and let it dry then install them.
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:54 PM   #2815
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can anybody tell me whether a 720 locker will fit in an nt1. just trying to save buying an xray if i dont need to.



No different size
thanks for the response, no harm in asking
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Old 03-07-2008, 01:12 AM   #2816
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The blue threadlock did not work well for me.
I ended up putting CA inside the holes of the arm and letting it dry before threading in the pivot ball...this worked much better .
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Old 03-07-2008, 10:01 AM   #2817
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The blue threadlock did not work well for me.
I ended up putting CA inside the holes of the arm and letting it dry before threading in the pivot ball...this worked much better .
Any Threadlock will never work on plastic, it is invented/made for metel to metal.
You did right by using CA inside the holes of the arm, and by letting it dry you are actually building more material on the plastic, that way when you thread in the pivot ball it will be really tight, and that is the best way to do it.
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Old 03-07-2008, 03:12 PM   #2818
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The blue threadlock did not work well for me.
I ended up putting CA inside the holes of the arm and letting it dry before threading in the pivot ball...this worked much better .
just out of curiousity, how did you get the ca into the holes?
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Old 03-07-2008, 03:16 PM   #2819
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Just take the pillow balls out and he filled the threads inside the arms with the ca and let it dry before reinstalling.
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Old 03-08-2008, 07:43 AM   #2820
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just a quick question, i've found the xray clutch does not engage as aggresive as my mtx4r clutch. it does not rev free, then snap on like the mugen, except it engages pritty much straight away.

i've installed a crf spring and kyosho fluwheights which have been drilled out. i also wound down the spring to the point that any more and the clutch does not engage well, yet it still engages too early.

does this mean i need to increase the internal clutch gap between the shoe and the bell?

i have also been getting some pritty bad clutch burn on the shoe

i found that if the current thrust bearing is loaded up too much, it pushes the balls out, and elongates the holes of the balls. This causes the sides of the thrust bearing on the edges that are closest to the balls to hit the inside edges of the clutch bell where the thrust bearing sits in. This then causes inconsistent clutch engagement. also one of the balls now falls out, meaning the thrust has been exposed to too much force. ( i grease it up each race day).

all these are signs of the clutch not being set up right but i've tried many things (no end play, alot of end play, no clutch shoe gap, heaps of gap, tight spring, loose spring, lgiht weight shoes) yet nothing fixes it.

i am currently running 1.2mm of shims behind the internal bearing

help me out here i've recently changed the thrus bearing to the mugen one, as i have a feeling that the compressed xray thrust bearing that is hitting the sides of the inside of the clutch bell where the thrust sits is causing issues

i started up the car today, and couldn't get it to keep a consistent idle, and i think this is due to the clutch issues (and the dodgy thrust bearing i was using)

Last edited by TomB; 03-08-2008 at 07:53 AM.
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