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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 10-28-2015, 02:12 AM
  #19366  
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Originally Posted by RockStar_199
about to buy a new chassis should i get the kit version or hard coated or m2c? Is there a difference from the kit and the hard coated? Feedback on the m2c please. thanks in advance
do a forum search for this thread....
M2C Racing Kyosho TKI3 chassis w/skid plates

I'd paste the link, but I can't get it to happen.
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:28 PM
  #19367  
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
That's the way the upper arms are. The plastic seems kind of soft.

In some posts in the past some people asked about improvements for the next gen MP9. I'd like to see a normal camber link with balls on both ends for the front upper arm.
Theyd have to fix the lower arms first though, if the only thing holding the wheels straight was those flimsy things....disaster
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:30 PM
  #19368  
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Is there a "Goto" setup for the TKI3 that is a good base/all around setup? I like starting with popular setups and then tweaking to my track and/or liking! Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:48 PM
  #19369  
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Originally Posted by swayysta
Is there a "Goto" setup for the TKI3 that is a good base/all around setup? I like starting with popular setups and then tweaking to my track and/or liking! Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Try Kyosho America site in factory support you will find setups for different tracks.
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:57 AM
  #19370  
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Originally Posted by jeromerc
Agreed, I have had the extended plates since before they were released and it does still hit the chassis. It doesn't hit them as bad but it does still hit. You could probably get away with using a drimmel and just taking a bit of material away, but drilling is much faster and easier. This is what I will also do with the RTR chassis as they have NO cutouts compared to the other chassis.

Thanks guys. Out with the drill on the new chassis
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Old 10-29-2015, 01:00 AM
  #19371  
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Originally Posted by jeromerc
Agreed, I have had the extended plates since before they were released and it does still hit the chassis. It doesn't hit them as bad but it does still hit. You could probably get away with using a drimmel and just taking a bit of material away, but drilling is much faster and easier. This is what I will also do with the RTR chassis as they have NO cutouts compared to the other chassis.
Cheers guys. Out with the drill on the new chassis.
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:16 AM
  #19372  
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Originally Posted by smelly62
Try Kyosho America site in factory support you will find setups for different tracks.
Yeah. Or you could go with the kit setup which really isn't bad at all. Very neutral and easy to drive, then go from there, for your local track.
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Old 10-29-2015, 08:38 AM
  #19373  
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Originally Posted by black blood
Cheers guys. Out with the drill on the new chassis.
I put a second chassis on my car and did not drill this one. I had no issues with it stalling the engine. I can see marks on the clutchbell but it has not shut down the engine. I can't see the clutch bell causing that but more the flywheel doing it.
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Old 10-29-2015, 11:21 AM
  #19374  
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Default Question about diffs

I have the TKI3 Readyset version and am rebuilding them. I see on the TKI3 readyset version there is a provision for a second set of (side gears) where the TKI3 kit version comes with these gears. What is the difference? LSD or posi? What would I benefit from adding the second set of gears. Thanks.
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:44 AM
  #19375  
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The extra set of spider gears makes the diff a lot more durable. Although I never ran the ready set version, I've heard people at the track complaining about the internal gears stripping. I've never experienced stripped internals on my TKI3 nor have I heard of that being a complaint on the car. I would imagine it also would affect the differentialing action since there are less parts cutting through the fluid. Get the other spider gears.
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:49 AM
  #19376  
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Originally Posted by Rodl
I have the TKI3 Readyset version and am rebuilding them. I see on the TKI3 readyset version there is a provision for a second set of (side gears) where the TKI3 kit version comes with these gears. What is the difference? LSD or posi? What would I benefit from adding the second set of gears. Thanks.
Get the extra gears, I am building a new kit and I am going to use the ready set dog bones for center diffs so I ordered diffs from Dollar Hobbyz first thing I did was to add the extra internal gears in the diffs. When only running one set under a load they are not as effective, think of the difference between a posi unit in a bigger car and a one wheel spinning unit on your grandma's car. Yes it works, but not the same performance wise...
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:13 AM
  #19377  
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Thanks for the replies guys, I am going to the LHS today for fluids and may see if they have the parts to add the extra set. If they don't, I will upgrade the diffs when I get a better more powerful engine combo.
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:31 AM
  #19378  
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easiest driving mp9 ever

or plethora of setups

look for setups that are similar to your tracks , remember the pro setups are for fast driving , car doesnt drive the same if not up to their speed but do your best :-D
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Old 10-30-2015, 01:37 PM
  #19379  
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Originally Posted by jeromerc
Get the extra gears, I am building a new kit and I am going to use the ready set dog bones for center diffs so I ordered diffs from Dollar Hobbyz first thing I did was to add the extra internal gears in the diffs. When only running one set under a load they are not as effective, think of the difference between a posi unit in a bigger car and a one wheel spinning unit on your grandma's car. Yes it works, but not the same performance wise...
I went to my LHS and got 7k for the front, 5k for the center, and 3k for the rear. If this doesnt work well for my track I will go back to 5k for the front. I asked them about the extra gears and they said it should make no difference but I may need to change weight of fluid again if I add them. They also said the extra gears would improve durability of the diffs. I'm only running the stock KE21R for now, but when upgrading to Nova power I will add the extra gears.
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:12 PM
  #19380  
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Originally Posted by houston
easiest driving mp9 ever

or plethora of setups

look for setups that are similar to your tracks , remember the pro setups are for fast driving , car doesnt drive the same if not up to their speed but do your best :-D
Kyosho has great set up sheets, but the tracks they race on are far different from the clay based surface I run on. Houston please take a look in the "Nitro Engine Forum". I have a thread about porting you may be of assistance with. Thanks!
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