Inferno MP9 thread
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Tech Addict

Having a problem with my fuel tubing around filter area . I have noticed I have splits in my gas line an always on either side of the filter. There has to be a remedy for this, hate leading an A main when the commentator says 9mins left and all of a sudden Ya car cuts out . Look car over and gas line is split again crap . Open to ideas thanks

Having a problem with my fuel tubing around filter area . I have noticed I have splits in my gas line an always on either side of the filter. There has to be a remedy for this, hate leading an A main when the commentator says 9mins left and all of a sudden Ya car cuts out . Look car over and gas line is split again crap . Open to ideas thanks
or you can do the shrink tubing around the fuel line where it joins with the fuel filter and that should also do the trick. Shrink tubing is what most people go with from what I've read. Cody King uses shrink tubing, so if you find pics of his car, you will get the idea.

i do both of these plus i'm using the kyosho blue fuel line and hasn't split since i did this. i also raised the filter holder with a spacer because the fuel line was too close to the brake linkage collars
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (32)

I use kevlar sleeving around that portion of my fuel line; heat and cut resistant.

I had the a same fuel line splitting issue. Same resolution too. Zip tie filter down (cut under side of mount so it's flat and zip tie won't slide off) and shrink wrap both sides. Heck these guys probably recommended the solution to me a long time ago LoL

The best way to get the car to over steer ( when the rear of the car slides into a corner) Is to use the throttle. Brakes should only be used to slow the car into the corner. Once your into the turn that's when you should start to apply the throttle which will bring the rear end out. This is the fastest way to get through a turn. In my opinion you need more bias up front because when the brakes are applied weight is transferred to the front and that's where you have more traction which in turn will slow the car down more efficiently. Just my 2 cents

I just switched to KYOSHO. and something I've noticed that all the pros run with very thin oil in the shocks versus other brands.
Even in hot environments they run -30-32.5WT Which probably is about 300-350 cst with 8x13 pistons.It sounds very thin compared to other cars.
Do normal people also run so thin oil on summer days 25c degrees?
Even in hot environments they run -30-32.5WT Which probably is about 300-350 cst with 8x13 pistons.It sounds very thin compared to other cars.
Do normal people also run so thin oil on summer days 25c degrees?

in the rear yes, 32.5 is perfect.
up front more like 40.
up front more like 40.

You always have to think about the weight listed
On the setup sheets . Most pros are running all titanium
Screws ,hinge pins, turnbuckles. This is a big difference vs stock car.
Might have to adjust according to your car.
On the setup sheets . Most pros are running all titanium
Screws ,hinge pins, turnbuckles. This is a big difference vs stock car.
Might have to adjust according to your car.

Having a problem with my fuel tubing around filter area . I have noticed I have splits in my gas line an always on either side of the filter. There has to be a remedy for this, hate leading an A main when the commentator says 9mins left and all of a sudden Ya car cuts out . Look car over and gas line is split again crap . Open to ideas thanks

Just got my mp9e kit on monday and ready to start the build. Can I ask questions in here in regards to the buggy as it seams this thread is used more? One question is I'm picking up parts and wondering about the hard shock towers. Are they stronger? Stiffer? or what's the deal w them? There very expensive @ 80 bucks a pc. Part # KYOIF477 front and # KYOIF408B rear. Is the stock mp9e rear shock tower a short one that uses the medium shocks? Cuz thats what this optional hard one is.
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)

I just switched to KYOSHO. and something I've noticed that all the pros run with very thin oil in the shocks versus other brands.
Even in hot environments they run -30-32.5WT Which probably is about 300-350 cst with 8x13 pistons.It sounds very thin compared to other cars.
Do normal people also run so thin oil on summer days 25c degrees?
Even in hot environments they run -30-32.5WT Which probably is about 300-350 cst with 8x13 pistons.It sounds very thin compared to other cars.
Do normal people also run so thin oil on summer days 25c degrees?
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)

Just got my mp9e kit on monday and ready to start the build. Can I ask questions in here in regards to the buggy as it seams this thread is used more? One question is I'm picking up parts and wondering about the hard shock towers. Are they stronger? Stiffer? or what's the deal w them? There very expensive @ 80 bucks a pc. Part # KYOIF477 front and # KYOIF408B rear. Is the stock mp9e rear shock tower a short one that uses the medium shocks? Cuz thats what this optional hard one is.

I can only comment on the kit towers. They are quite strong. The rear one might be the only thing you'll never wear out or have to replace due to damage. The front is strong too. I hadn't bent one in a couple of years. .. until my track switched to blue groove. The speed the cars go and the severity of the accidents on the much harder track is hard on parts. I bent 2 front towers. I bent them both back and they're fine. If you got the cash and want the bling, get the HA towers, but I don't think you necessarily need it for reliability reasons. They are the same in terms of mounting points.
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)

Depending on when Kyosho releases the new Front tower/shock package, it may be in your best interest to wait. $160 is a lot for shock towers, and when the upgraded shocks come out it will be much better spent on that "conversion" so to speak. Details are a page or 2 back on this thread if you're interested.