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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-09-2015, 04:46 PM
  #18616  
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Having a problem with my fuel tubing around filter area . I have noticed I have splits in my gas line an always on either side of the filter. There has to be a remedy for this, hate leading an A main when the commentator says 9mins left and all of a sudden Ya car cuts out . Look car over and gas line is split again crap . Open to ideas thanks
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Old 03-09-2015, 05:26 PM
  #18617  
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Originally Posted by Eastside777
Having a problem with my fuel tubing around filter area . I have noticed I have splits in my gas line an always on either side of the filter. There has to be a remedy for this, hate leading an A main when the commentator says 9mins left and all of a sudden Ya car cuts out . Look car over and gas line is split again crap . Open to ideas thanks
Yup, I had the same issues when I first got this car. I found that using the stock filter mount puts the fuel line at a bad angle depending on how you routed your fuel lines. Make sure your fuel lines go nice and straight into the filter. I also zip tied my filter so it doesn't bounce around. This worked for me.

or you can do the shrink tubing around the fuel line where it joins with the fuel filter and that should also do the trick. Shrink tubing is what most people go with from what I've read. Cody King uses shrink tubing, so if you find pics of his car, you will get the idea.
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Old 03-09-2015, 05:56 PM
  #18618  
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Originally Posted by SEF
I also zip tied my filter so it doesn't bounce around. This worked for me.

shrink tubing around the fuel line where it joins with the fuel filter
i do both of these plus i'm using the kyosho blue fuel line and hasn't split since i did this. i also raised the filter holder with a spacer because the fuel line was too close to the brake linkage collars
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Old 03-09-2015, 06:45 PM
  #18619  
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I use kevlar sleeving around that portion of my fuel line; heat and cut resistant.
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:39 AM
  #18620  
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I had the a same fuel line splitting issue. Same resolution too. Zip tie filter down (cut under side of mount so it's flat and zip tie won't slide off) and shrink wrap both sides. Heck these guys probably recommended the solution to me a long time ago LoL
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:56 AM
  #18621  
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Originally Posted by max92804
The best way to get the car to over steer ( when the rear of the car slides into a corner) Is to use the throttle. Brakes should only be used to slow the car into the corner. Once your into the turn that's when you should start to apply the throttle which will bring the rear end out. This is the fastest way to get through a turn. In my opinion you need more bias up front because when the brakes are applied weight is transferred to the front and that's where you have more traction which in turn will slow the car down more efficiently. Just my 2 cents
Depends on your set up and the track. Applying the throttle at the wrong time in the turn can make the car push nice and wide. I disagree that bringing the rear end out is the fastest way to get through a turn. Smooth driving is. I'm not saying the rear should be totally locked down, because yeah, the car will never get around the corner, but fishtailing like Ken Block's stunt driving isn't the way to go. I think we'd see pros doing it if it was.
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:16 AM
  #18622  
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I just switched to KYOSHO. and something I've noticed that all the pros run with very thin oil in the shocks versus other brands.
Even in hot environments they run -30-32.5WT Which probably is about 300-350 cst with 8x13 pistons.It sounds very thin compared to other cars.

Do normal people also run so thin oil on summer days 25c degrees?
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:04 AM
  #18623  
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in the rear yes, 32.5 is perfect.

up front more like 40.
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Old 03-11-2015, 08:08 AM
  #18624  
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You always have to think about the weight listed
On the setup sheets . Most pros are running all titanium
Screws ,hinge pins, turnbuckles. This is a big difference vs stock car.
Might have to adjust according to your car.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:07 AM
  #18625  
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Originally Posted by Eastside777
Having a problem with my fuel tubing around filter area . I have noticed I have splits in my gas line an always on either side of the filter. There has to be a remedy for this, hate leading an A main when the commentator says 9mins left and all of a sudden Ya car cuts out . Look car over and gas line is split again crap . Open to ideas thanks
Take some light sand paper (grit) and sand down the nipples on each end of the filter, believe it or not they are sharp and cause the tears in your line..... After I use heat shrink tubing and I've never had an issue......
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:55 PM
  #18626  
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Just got my mp9e kit on monday and ready to start the build. Can I ask questions in here in regards to the buggy as it seams this thread is used more? One question is I'm picking up parts and wondering about the hard shock towers. Are they stronger? Stiffer? or what's the deal w them? There very expensive @ 80 bucks a pc. Part # KYOIF477 front and # KYOIF408B rear. Is the stock mp9e rear shock tower a short one that uses the medium shocks? Cuz thats what this optional hard one is.
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Old 03-11-2015, 11:27 PM
  #18627  
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Originally Posted by occidio
I just switched to KYOSHO. and something I've noticed that all the pros run with very thin oil in the shocks versus other brands.
Even in hot environments they run -30-32.5WT Which probably is about 300-350 cst with 8x13 pistons.It sounds very thin compared to other cars.

Do normal people also run so thin oil on summer days 25c degrees?
Yuichi Kanai ran 600 and 550 when he was in Vietnam. I don't like chassis slap as it makes the landings unstable so I run a bit heavier shock oil, when it bounces from a landing I take it just a bit lower until the bounce stops
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Old 03-11-2015, 11:36 PM
  #18628  
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Originally Posted by wreckya
Just got my mp9e kit on monday and ready to start the build. Can I ask questions in here in regards to the buggy as it seams this thread is used more? One question is I'm picking up parts and wondering about the hard shock towers. Are they stronger? Stiffer? or what's the deal w them? There very expensive @ 80 bucks a pc. Part # KYOIF477 front and # KYOIF408B rear. Is the stock mp9e rear shock tower a short one that uses the medium shocks? Cuz thats what this optional hard one is.
Medium shocks on both yes. Hard towers are a bit better in my opinion. If you end up on your roof alot they will hold up better, at least as far as seeing scratches, they will also not fade. Stronger..... not sure I have never bent or broke a stock one, but I did upgrade to the hard ones. I liked the look.
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Old 03-12-2015, 01:15 AM
  #18629  
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I can only comment on the kit towers. They are quite strong. The rear one might be the only thing you'll never wear out or have to replace due to damage. The front is strong too. I hadn't bent one in a couple of years. .. until my track switched to blue groove. The speed the cars go and the severity of the accidents on the much harder track is hard on parts. I bent 2 front towers. I bent them both back and they're fine. If you got the cash and want the bling, get the HA towers, but I don't think you necessarily need it for reliability reasons. They are the same in terms of mounting points.
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:52 AM
  #18630  
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Depending on when Kyosho releases the new Front tower/shock package, it may be in your best interest to wait. $160 is a lot for shock towers, and when the upgraded shocks come out it will be much better spent on that "conversion" so to speak. Details are a page or 2 back on this thread if you're interested.
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