Inferno MP9 thread
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Does anyone know if the Mugen clutch setup works ? The clutchbell and everything looks almost identical to me, not quite sure though !!
Also , I'm looking for any "must have" mods for the TKI3 , new to the Kyosho and just not sure if there are any durability mods I should do.
For instance , does it need an aluminum servo saver ? Some of my other cars were prone to breaking the plastic one ... Thanks !
Also , I'm looking for any "must have" mods for the TKI3 , new to the Kyosho and just not sure if there are any durability mods I should do.
For instance , does it need an aluminum servo saver ? Some of my other cars were prone to breaking the plastic one ... Thanks !
No the mugen doesn't line up correctly. Even if you use a k flywheel it still won't line up 100% you can get it to work but you won't be in the meat part of the clutch bell.
Must have hop ups alum c hubs and that's it really.
. No alum serve saver needed as lo g as you know how to set your epa and the saver spring all good......3 kits and never had a problem
Must have hop ups alum c hubs and that's it really.
. No alum serve saver needed as lo g as you know how to set your epa and the saver spring all good......3 kits and never had a problem
Tech Master
I have not used BUKU since mvoing to Mp9 car. I feel the Kyosho clutch is very very good. Maybe not as smooth as the Buku, but, very long lasting. If you wan`t it smooth you can use the Kyosho carbon shoes.
Do not forget taht you can mix springs and combos of alu and carbon clutchshoes to realy tailor the clutch to what you need. I often mix pings from 0,9-1,1 or 0,95x2 and a 1.0 with carbon shoes in low grip conditions.
Do not forget taht you can mix springs and combos of alu and carbon clutchshoes to realy tailor the clutch to what you need. I often mix pings from 0,9-1,1 or 0,95x2 and a 1.0 with carbon shoes in low grip conditions.
Tech Apprentice
Quick question...
I have little bubbles in my fuel lines when running. When I push down on the filler cap they go away. I see one possible problem. The handle on the cap hits the raised portion of the tank (back of tank). I will trim this down tomorrow.
How I adjust the "bolt" under the cap the ensure a good seal? Lefty loosey or righty tighty?
I have little bubbles in my fuel lines when running. When I push down on the filler cap they go away. I see one possible problem. The handle on the cap hits the raised portion of the tank (back of tank). I will trim this down tomorrow.
How I adjust the "bolt" under the cap the ensure a good seal? Lefty loosey or righty tighty?
I trimmed mine down because I use the mbx7 tank pull and didn't want it to cut it. Make sure your oring is seated corectly. I had a new tank that would spill fuel because the oring didn't seat right so I took out an old one and problem gone
Tech Apprentice
The entire buggy only has about 1/2 gallon through it, so I would hope the o-ring isn't worn out just yet. It seems the seal is good, but just in case...which way do I turn the bolt on the underside to tighten the fit. I had a tank many moons ago that need this to ensure a good seal. Traxxas crap. LOL
+1 mix composite clutch for low grip track.
Mine wasn't worn either....it was a brand new tank and I couldn't depending d on someone making sure it was close all the way so I put a old oring from and old tank and it fixed it. You could take the oring out and put it back in to see if that helps. It may not be tight under the cap you will see a screw to tighten it
I think you'd better served getting some spare parts in case something breaks. As stated on the previous page.... front arms, front inner lower hinge pins, pill set and clutch bearings (oh, must have mod here are tko rt clutch bearings and speedx bearing lube for them). Everything else should stay together.
On the topic of clutches, the buku lasts ages longer than the kit clutch
Tech Apprentice
Mine wasn't worn either....it was a brand new tank and I couldn't depending d on someone making sure it was close all the way so I put a old oring from and old tank and it fixed it. You could take the oring out and put it back in to see if that helps. It may not be tight under the cap you will see a screw to tighten it
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
I need some help. I keep destroying spur gears. I have one piece lower motor mount. I am setting gear mesh with the paper trick and have had 2 other people set mesh in case I was setting wrong and every few races I will chip a tooth off or something. Am going though way to many of them on a car that does not break. Any ideas what it might be? Cause I can't figure it out drive train is butter.
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Are you using the 2mm shims to raise your diff? That helps. You want to also make sure you have very little play with your mesh. Just enough to where it's not binding