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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 11-05-2015, 10:19 PM
  #19396  
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Originally Posted by KyoshoRed
Reds quattro..can't beat it in my opinion crazy acceleration and the life of the shoes are nothing short of amazing
Is THIS the one for Kyosho? 32mm flywheel, right?
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:31 PM
  #19397  
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Originally Posted by dameetz
Is THIS the one for Kyosho? 32mm flywheel, right?
yes, kyosho uses 32mm flywheel
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:19 AM
  #19398  
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Does anyone know if the Mugen clutch setup works ? The clutchbell and everything looks almost identical to me, not quite sure though !!

Also , I'm looking for any "must have" mods for the TKI3 , new to the Kyosho and just not sure if there are any durability mods I should do.

For instance , does it need an aluminum servo saver ? Some of my other cars were prone to breaking the plastic one ... Thanks !
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Old 11-06-2015, 11:50 AM
  #19399  
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No the mugen doesn't line up correctly. Even if you use a k flywheel it still won't line up 100% you can get it to work but you won't be in the meat part of the clutch bell.

Must have hop ups alum c hubs and that's it really.
. No alum serve saver needed as lo g as you know how to set your epa and the saver spring all good......3 kits and never had a problem
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Old 11-06-2015, 12:06 PM
  #19400  
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I have not used BUKU since mvoing to Mp9 car. I feel the Kyosho clutch is very very good. Maybe not as smooth as the Buku, but, very long lasting. If you wan`t it smooth you can use the Kyosho carbon shoes.

Do not forget taht you can mix springs and combos of alu and carbon clutchshoes to realy tailor the clutch to what you need. I often mix pings from 0,9-1,1 or 0,95x2 and a 1.0 with carbon shoes in low grip conditions.
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:24 PM
  #19401  
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Quick question...
I have little bubbles in my fuel lines when running. When I push down on the filler cap they go away. I see one possible problem. The handle on the cap hits the raised portion of the tank (back of tank). I will trim this down tomorrow.
How I adjust the "bolt" under the cap the ensure a good seal? Lefty loosey or righty tighty?
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:40 PM
  #19402  
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I trimmed mine down because I use the mbx7 tank pull and didn't want it to cut it. Make sure your oring is seated corectly. I had a new tank that would spill fuel because the oring didn't seat right so I took out an old one and problem gone
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:53 PM
  #19403  
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Originally Posted by RockStar_199
I trimmed mine down because I use the mbx7 tank pull and didn't want it to cut it. Make sure your oring is seated corectly. I had a new tank that would spill fuel because the oring didn't seat right so I took out an old one and problem gone
Seems like trimming down the tank will help.
The entire buggy only has about 1/2 gallon through it, so I would hope the o-ring isn't worn out just yet. It seems the seal is good, but just in case...which way do I turn the bolt on the underside to tighten the fit. I had a tank many moons ago that need this to ensure a good seal. Traxxas crap. LOL
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Old 11-06-2015, 04:13 PM
  #19404  
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+1 mix composite clutch for low grip track.
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:53 PM
  #19405  
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Mine wasn't worn either....it was a brand new tank and I couldn't depending d on someone making sure it was close all the way so I put a old oring from and old tank and it fixed it. You could take the oring out and put it back in to see if that helps. It may not be tight under the cap you will see a screw to tighten it
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Old 11-07-2015, 01:01 AM
  #19406  
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Originally Posted by swayysta

Also , I'm looking for any "must have" mods for the TKI3 , new to the Kyosho and just not sure if there are any durability mods I should do.

For instance , does it need an aluminum servo saver ? Some of my other cars were prone to breaking the plastic one ... Thanks !
You can run the car as is out of the box and be just fine. The plastic "servo horn" in the kit is surprisingly durable.

I think you'd better served getting some spare parts in case something breaks. As stated on the previous page.... front arms, front inner lower hinge pins, pill set and clutch bearings (oh, must have mod here are tko rt clutch bearings and speedx bearing lube for them). Everything else should stay together.

On the topic of clutches, the buku lasts ages longer than the kit clutch
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Old 11-07-2015, 06:11 AM
  #19407  
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Originally Posted by RockStar_199
Mine wasn't worn either....it was a brand new tank and I couldn't depending d on someone making sure it was close all the way so I put a old oring from and old tank and it fixed it. You could take the oring out and put it back in to see if that helps. It may not be tight under the cap you will see a screw to tighten it
Thanks for your replies. I trimmed the tank and now it makes a crisp "pop" sound like it seals better now. I may run it today to see if bubbles are diminished, but it's raining all day.
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Old 11-07-2015, 08:25 PM
  #19408  
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Originally Posted by maxflo777
Thanks guys.

Somethings I still dont get.
2deg offset? Shouldnt it be distance? 2mm?
You do get it and you're correct. ST RR Evo said 2o offset but offset can't be measured in degrees.
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Old 11-08-2015, 02:05 PM
  #19409  
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I need some help. I keep destroying spur gears. I have one piece lower motor mount. I am setting gear mesh with the paper trick and have had 2 other people set mesh in case I was setting wrong and every few races I will chip a tooth off or something. Am going though way to many of them on a car that does not break. Any ideas what it might be? Cause I can't figure it out drive train is butter.
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Old 11-08-2015, 03:37 PM
  #19410  
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Are you using the 2mm shims to raise your diff? That helps. You want to also make sure you have very little play with your mesh. Just enough to where it's not binding
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