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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-15-2015, 08:37 PM
  #18646  
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I run 5/4/2 on a tight, bumpy and loose track. Seem to like it the best.

Tried 5/5/3, 5/4/3 and 7/5/3.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:17 PM
  #18647  
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Originally Posted by Eastside777
Has anybody tried unconditional diff oil combos in the tki3 ? I see every were it's 5/5/3 or 5/4/3 but has anybody tried anything different then those combo's? Was pondering putting 7000 in front diff just to see how it felt . On my X-ray I used 7/5/3 and I got use to driving threw the corner and the front would pull you out of the corner . Somebody has to have tried different combo's in there tki pls share your results .
I run 5/7/2 and 5/5/3 quite often
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Old 03-16-2015, 02:18 AM
  #18648  
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I've tried a lot of different oil combos. In my opinion 4k center will be too light. It will diff out and the front tires on hard acceleration will balloon. I've heard of people running 5/7/3, but for me the car was not as easy to drive. The rear was getting too much drive and it wanted to snap oversteer. I may have been able to tune it out, but didn't spend enough time with it. 5/6/3 might have felt better, but I didn't try it. I would like to though. I had 10/10/3 and 7/7/3 working to my liking with a really out there set up. Lots of power and drive. In the end 5/5/3 was the best compromise btwn power and drive ability and yielded lap times. I remember Jared Tebo mentioning that if you go up in the center you usually have to go up in the front too
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:24 AM
  #18649  
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Originally Posted by Eastside777
Has anybody tried unconditional diff oil combos in the tki3 ? I see every were it's 5/5/3 or 5/4/3 but has anybody tried anything different then those combo's? Was pondering putting 7000 in front diff just to see how it felt . On my X-ray I used 7/5/3 and I got use to driving threw the corner and the front would pull you out of the corner . Somebody has to have tried different combo's in there tki pls share your results .
All depends on your driving style. I usually use 7/5/3 and have used 10/7/3, 10/7/4 and other combos to see how it affects handling and traction on way into a corner and on the way out.

I drive with a 'slow in-fast out' style and this obviously doesn't put major priority on having highest corner speed possible, rather, the highest exit speed is what I aim for.

So, all depends on one's driving style but just try a few combos, figure out if you like or don't like the way the power is being put down and change oils one diff at a time and go from there. Really no different from any other brand, you just have to figure out what works for you.
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:31 PM
  #18650  
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How many of you still run the one piece kyosho engine mount? I went back yesterday to the regular two piece one for outdoor season (indoor was high tack clay so was great). Also my rear brace (plastic) bends mid way (new one was put in last race weekend and that ones bent as well). Is my chassis kinked? I have a spare car which does not have that issue.
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:51 PM
  #18651  
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Amazingly I was going to ask same question . I just installed one on my car and was also wandering if anybody else was using the one piece motor mount ? With my first thoughts I am not sure how it effects handling characteristics of the car. Car seemed stiffer on the track but still had traction and all . But I had to mysterious flameouts coming over the triple missed the landing which I generally do but only difference this time engine was cut out . On both times I missed a landing both times flameouts, so from my own testing I am not sure maybe I have done something wrong . But defiantly interested in other people's findings
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Old 03-16-2015, 01:41 PM
  #18652  
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I need a little help from you guys. I bought a TKI3 a few months back but I have been having some issues with the car breaking loose when letting off the throttle and rolling in to the corner. I race on a loose, rough outdoor track (similar to PNB and the old Silver State track). My setup is as follows:

F/R Shock Oil: 40/27.5
F/R Springs: Lt Blue/Orange ( I was thinking of trying Orange/Orange and Orange/Yellow)
Ride Height: 27/30
Camber -1/-2
Droop: 99mm/118mm
Camber link position: 9 on tower/ 3 on hub
Front shock position: Middle on tower, in on arm
Rear shock position second to last hole on tower, in on arm
Diff Oil: 5/5/3
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Old 03-16-2015, 02:01 PM
  #18653  
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Originally Posted by 95racer95
I need a little help from you guys. I bought a TKI3 a few months back but I have been having some issues with the car breaking loose when letting off the throttle and rolling in to the corner. I race on a loose, rough outdoor track (similar to PNB and the old Silver State track). My setup is as follows:

F/R Shock Oil: 40/27.5
F/R Springs: Lt Blue/Orange ( I was thinking of trying Orange/Orange and Orange/Yellow)
Ride Height: 27/30
Camber -1/-2
Droop: 99mm/118mm
Camber link position: 9 on tower/ 3 on hub
Front shock position: Middle on tower, in on arm
Rear shock position second to last hole on tower, in on arm
Diff Oil: 5/5/3
Id try going with heavier oil in the rear and try moving the rear shock in one on the tower just some easy setup changes that should make a difference.
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Old 03-16-2015, 02:02 PM
  #18654  
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Originally Posted by Eastside777
Amazingly I was going to ask same question . I just installed one on my car and was also wandering if anybody else was using the one piece motor mount ? With my first thoughts I am not sure how it effects handling characteristics of the car. Car seemed stiffer on the track but still had traction and all . But I had to mysterious flameouts coming over the triple missed the landing which I generally do but only difference this time engine was cut out . On both times I missed a landing both times flameouts, so from my own testing I am not sure maybe I have done something wrong . But defiantly interested in other people's findings
I have never had a flame out after the one piece mount (been running it for 2 months now). Chassi just flexes a bit less. But as I said, on my practice car, I never bent a rear brace (stock motor mount) but I have gone through 2 with my race chassis which has the one piece.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:23 PM
  #18655  
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Originally Posted by 95racer95
I need a little help from you guys. I bought a TKI3 a few months back but I have been having some issues with the car breaking loose when letting off the throttle and rolling in to the corner. I race on a loose, rough outdoor track (similar to PNB and the old Silver State track). My setup is as follows:

F/R Shock Oil: 40/27.5
F/R Springs: Lt Blue/Orange ( I was thinking of trying Orange/Orange and Orange/Yellow)
Ride Height: 27/30
Camber -1/-2
Droop: 99mm/118mm
Camber link position: 9 on tower/ 3 on hub
Front shock position: Middle on tower, in on arm
Rear shock position second to last hole on tower, in on arm
Diff Oil: 5/5/3
How much rear antisquat are you running?

I had exactly the same thing happening, i had max antisquat 4 or 5 degrees, reduced it to 2 and issue is gone.

Try that.
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Old 03-16-2015, 04:48 PM
  #18656  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
How much rear antisquat are you running?

I had exactly the same thing happening, i had max antisquat 4 or 5 degrees, reduced it to 2 and issue is gone.

Try that.
I am running 2 degrees, "Roll Center L". I have been having this issue since I bought it , I can't seem to get rid of it. I checked if there is some binding but nothing, when I roll in the corner I am not even going in quick. I was thinking that it was the breaks engaging but that is not it. I have the tires that everyone runs. I am not sure what try.
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Old 03-16-2015, 05:55 PM
  #18657  
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Double check your antisquat as with the lrc position its 1 degree more than high. Go to 1 degree.

Also try longer rear link, hole 2 on hub and and 8 on tower.
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:10 PM
  #18658  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
Double check your antisquat as with the lrc position its 1 degree more than high. Go to 1 degree.

Also try longer rear link, hole 2 on hub and and 8 on tower.
Thanks for the suggestions, I will try those out but first I am just going to take everything apart and see if there are any hidden issues.
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:09 PM
  #18659  
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Hey guys, how often do you find yourselves needing to replace bearings? I know clutch bearings are an every race day thing (at lease for me they are). What about wheel bearings/diff case bearings, ext? How often do you usually go before deciding to replace them?
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Old 03-17-2015, 01:21 AM
  #18660  
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Originally Posted by 95racer95
I need a little help from you guys. I bought a TKI3 a few months back but I have been having some issues with the car breaking loose when letting off the throttle and rolling in to the corner. I race on a loose, rough outdoor track (similar to PNB and the old Silver State track). My setup is as follows:

F/R Shock Oil: 40/27.5
F/R Springs: Lt Blue/Orange ( I was thinking of trying Orange/Orange and Orange/Yellow)
Ride Height: 27/30
Camber -1/-2
Droop: 99mm/118mm
Camber link position: 9 on tower/ 3 on hub
Front shock position: Middle on tower, in on arm
Rear shock position second to last hole on tower, in on arm
Diff Oil: 5/5/3

I'm assuming you have too much weight transferring to the front when you let off and when you turn (let's say left) your car leans forward and right lifting the left rear off the ground. Now the right rear is overloaded (which has minimal weight on it) and lets go causing your spin. Go with the tried and true first to get your problem resolved and then adjust from there. The tried and true is 1.3x8 straight hole pistons (these are not the kit pistons) in front (front and rear really) with LOSI (or TLR- same thing) 45wt oil front and 30wt oil rear. (Associated oil for instance is lighter even though the numerical weight is the same.) This is the tried and true. Ticker oil will prevent the front from dropping as much. The other tried and true thing your missing is ride height. 28.5mm front. This higher front will resist too much weight transfer to the front. Lastly, take the sway bar end links off and verify the sway bars can pivot freely in their mounts. Gravity should be able to pull the down. When reassembling, start with end links flush to the end of the sway bar. Everything else is fine on your car.

Pistons, oil, ride height and sway bars have to be right.
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