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Inferno MP9 thread

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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 01-03-2011, 01:11 PM
  #4366  
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Thank You Matthijs. Difference between the se, tki and tki2 is just some parts. YEA.
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:31 PM
  #4367  
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Originally Posted by younghovaa
hows the quality of the Mugen?
The quality of the mugen is good, don't get me wrong, it is very durable, but it is just a bit heavy, I've honestly never had a problem with it, but a fast guy at my track always DNF'd. The mugen jumps well balanced, but is nowhere near as controllable as the kyosho. The kyosho parts just go together so nicely. The mugen is also not very forgiving on the setups, it has to be spot on, whereas the kyosho is much more forgiving, I have been able to keep the same setup on my mp9 for the 3 different tracks I went to and it was very good on all of them. The kyosho I would kind of say is almost like a truggy, it is surprisingly easy to drive. Also, I don't know what it is, but I swear the kyosho seems to land on all four wheels after being thrashed around much more than the mugen, which I always had on its lid.....maybe its my driving style....I cant wait to get my hands on the WC edition MP9.
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:39 PM
  #4368  
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Anyone have an M length rear tower new or used they wanna get rid of? I need one. Pm me if you got one. Thanks.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:20 PM
  #4369  
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Originally Posted by croracer
MY REAR CENTER KEEPS BENDING, AND ITS ONLY BEEN RUN A FEW RUNS ON IT
You might need to remove the corner of your engine mount to provide room for the rear centre shaft. If you have already then maybe a little more??
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:27 PM
  #4370  
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Originally Posted by smelly62
You might need to remove the corner of your engine mount to provide room for the rear centre shaft. If you have already then maybe a little more??
You gotta shave the right side of the motor mount a pretty good amount. I've never had this problem.......
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:33 PM
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can any one help me out. what would be a good starting point with the shock oil front and rear.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:16 PM
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i know that pitpop has posted on here that cody king likes the 1.3 straight hole pistons front and rear with 45 in front and 30 in back with the light blue springs
i run 1.2x8 front and rear with 35 in front and 25 in back with with the light blue springs in front and the med. green springs in the back it feels good when it gets hot will run 37.5 in front and 27.5 in back and in cold will go to 32.5 and 22.5 in back car feels very good for me just got my stuff to try the pitpop setup so will chime in after i compare them weather allowing been raining in socal alot so run time is very little
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:36 PM
  #4373  
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Originally Posted by Pete Martinez
can any one help me out. what would be a good starting point with the shock oil front and rear.
45 in the front if its smooth, 40 if its a bit rough. losi oils. I liked the 40, and 30 with light blues in the front with either purple in the rear or light blues are probably a little better.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:48 PM
  #4374  
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hey guys im sure it says on this thread somewhere but i dont have time to read it all im going ti get a tki 2 and amain doesnt have the coupon anymore does anyone know where is the best place to buy one.thanks
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:48 PM
  #4375  
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Originally Posted by yamahamxracer
The quality of the mugen is good, don't get me wrong, it is very durable, but it is just a bit heavy, I've honestly never had a problem with it, but a fast guy at my track always DNF'd. The mugen jumps well balanced, but is nowhere near as controllable as the kyosho. The kyosho parts just go together so nicely. The mugen is also not very forgiving on the setups, it has to be spot on, whereas the kyosho is much more forgiving, I have been able to keep the same setup on my mp9 for the 3 different tracks I went to and it was very good on all of them. The kyosho I would kind of say is almost like a truggy, it is surprisingly easy to drive. Also, I don't know what it is, but I swear the kyosho seems to land on all four wheels after being thrashed around much more than the mugen, which I always had on its lid.....maybe its my driving style....I cant wait to get my hands on the WC edition MP9.
I hear ya... I may dish the money out also for one
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:35 PM
  #4376  
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Originally Posted by younghovaa
I hear ya... I may dish the money out also for one
hell yea, I'm starting a fund!
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:54 PM
  #4377  
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About the rear uni bending; if you have too much chassis flex, the dogbone could be bottoming out in the outdrive, which causes it to bend. Maybe try an aluminum rear chassis brace to see if the problem goes away.
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:09 AM
  #4378  
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Originally Posted by the_kid9
About the rear uni bending; if you have too much chassis flex, the dogbone could be bottoming out in the outdrive, which causes it to bend. Maybe try an aluminum rear chassis brace to see if the problem goes away.
Last weekend I snapped two rear universals 93mm ones on my tki2, very upset I was holding a solid 4th in my race, 2nd time running pro too, I was not happy at all. Looks like the outdrives just wear 2x as fast as the front, on my other buggy I put the regular SE non lightweight outdrives on the rear and they seem to be holding up a little better. I also broke a rear center universal and it was hard to see while installed but when I removed the rear end come to find out my rear plastic chassis brace was tweaked a good 1/2". I would not say the aluminum one would be a fix, that would kill the awesome flex the buggy has and rear traction.

Andy
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:14 AM
  #4379  
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I have also ran the front mount battery tray, I did something custom with a piece of 3mm carbon fiber and I don't know, you deff have to put some weight in the rear of the buggy if you want to keep the rear end planted, I mean my buggy rotated better than my strr but I couldn't get traction on anything not grooved. I kept the regular radio tray in my tki2, I'll do a little more test n tune with weight in the back this weekend.

Andy
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:25 AM
  #4380  
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Originally Posted by 02maxima18
Last weekend I snapped two rear universals 93mm ones on my tki2, very upset I was holding a solid 4th in my race, 2nd time running pro too, I was not happy at all. Looks like the outdrives just wear 2x as fast as the front, on my other buggy I put the regular SE non lightweight outdrives on the rear and they seem to be holding up a little better. I also broke a rear center universal and it was hard to see while installed but when I removed the rear end come to find out my rear plastic chassis brace was tweaked a good 1/2". I would not say the aluminum one would be a fix, that would kill the awesome flex the buggy has and rear traction.

Andy
The 93mm driveshafts are intended to be used with 3 degrees of toe in. If you run less toe, or negative camber, they might be bottoming out in the out drives. This will make them break.
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