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Mugen MBX6

Old 05-16-2012, 07:13 PM
  #16531  
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I want to underdrive the rear of the car so do I put options gears in the back diff?
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:36 PM
  #16532  
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Originally Posted by NitroXray80809
Why would you want one? Not knocking on it but it just looks like another source to store heat, making maybe diff oils cook faster, brakes hotter, and linkages. The plastic is perfectly fine.
Keep stripping the 4 long screws that hold the diff mount together. Stripped about 4 diff mounts now. So was looking for something a bit more bullet proof.

Also wouldn't the alloy act as a heat sink drawing heat out of the diff and help the cooling ? The plastic diff case wont absorb any heat so the heat in the diff has no where to go. At least with the alloy one the heat has somewhere to go and because of the extra surface area can dissipate the heat more efficiently.

They make cooling heads for our engines out of alloy. Not plastic.
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:33 PM
  #16533  
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Timox, i've never heard of anyone stripping so many centre mounts, just loosen your grip and use your fingers when tightening up screws into plastic so you'll feel when they're getting tight, are you having this problem with other parts of the car?
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:31 PM
  #16534  
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Originally Posted by Timox
Keep stripping the 4 long screws that hold the diff mount together. Stripped about 4 diff mounts now. So was looking for something a bit more bullet proof.

Also wouldn't the alloy act as a heat sink drawing heat out of the diff and help the cooling ? The plastic diff case wont absorb any heat so the heat in the diff has no where to go. At least with the alloy one the heat has somewhere to go and because of the extra surface area can dissipate the heat more efficiently.

They make cooling heads for our engines out of alloy. Not plastic.
I also have stripped quite a few centre diff mounts. No other screws around the car seem to strip anywhere near as often as the centre diff mount ones do...
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:51 PM
  #16535  
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Originally Posted by curacing2
Timox, i've never heard of anyone stripping so many centre mounts, just loosen your grip and use your fingers when tightening up screws into plastic so you'll feel when they're getting tight, are you having this problem with other parts of the car?
No haven't had any trouble with any of the other screws around the car. I have always tightened them by hand.

They don't ever seem to feel like they are getting tight the screws just seem to slip in the plastic real easy. They could do with a bit longer screws so they have a bit more to hold into. Its only like the last 4 or 5 threads that are actually screwed into anything.
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:42 PM
  #16536  
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Questions??

Just a quick question.

Would someone be kind enough to tell me how many "R" versions of the kit there are, and what are the differences between the versions?
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Old 05-17-2012, 01:48 AM
  #16537  
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John as far as I know the only R now is the new USA spec buggy. I think all the old R cars are gone. As far as whats diff between the 2 R cars. Its just a bunch of alum upgrade parts and all the carbon is now silver.
Originally Posted by John.
Just a quick question.

Would someone be kind enough to tell me how many "R" versions of the kit there are, and what are the differences between the versions?
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:25 AM
  #16538  
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The setup you have posted is it with +5chassis? If I was to use it on a BCE,what are the changes I might have to do.Thank you for any input.
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:28 AM
  #16539  
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Originally Posted by dia
The setup you have posted is it with +5chassis? If I was to use it on a BCE,what are the changes I might have to do.Thank you for any input.
sir I found this

Mugen MBX6
Views: 1,356,325
Posted By mjealey
Hey guys, dumb question? I have the MBX6r and..

Hey guys, dumb question? I have the MBX6r and have switched to the BCE X3 pro chassis so it is a little shorter. Would the MBX6 body fit better since the chassis is shorter now? What body should I...


well if the bce chassis is shorter I would believe you would need to make the wheel base longer so KT setup will be somewhat the same.

maybe KT or Chad can shade some light on this.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:39 AM
  #16540  
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Does anyone know if the o-ring size in the Mugen shocks is the same as the AE RC8.2 shock o-rings?
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:50 AM
  #16541  
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Originally Posted by o.s. power
has anyone done any in depth testing with the csi pistons? i have the black ones in my car, just curious if anyone has found anything while using them, i havent had time to run my car in the last 2+ months.
We have been running them and love them. We are running the new blue pistons in the buggy. Last week we ran 65/55 in them with the truggy rear tower.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:22 AM
  #16542  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
sir did you run the hubs? the 1mm in front and 2mm in the rear? also I ran the rear link long meaning the out side hole towards the wheel. and dropped the hub down meaning the top hole on the rear hub. once I did that I was no long a$$ happy and I also moved my battery to the back tray.

I was able to drive hard in to the turn get off the gas and turn then back on gas. on parts of the track we had. some parts I was able to line up much faster than I was before

you said pushy going to the turn? and a$$ happy to. that's a crazy combo.
Yes, I ran the +2 & +1 hubs. Short rear camber link and the hubs in the upper hole just as KT's setup showed. The loose rear was on acceleration which I attributed to the thicker center diff (10K) and the clutch engaging to hard (Nova BTT Plus 4). The push was from the mid to exit of the turns so lightening up the front diff allowed me to get on the gas sooner since the diff was working a little better.

The track was dry and dusty other than the very beginning of every other heat so I had one wet track (some what) and one dry dusty track for each of my qual's. The mains were 20 min so we only had about 5 min of a wet track and the balance was loose and very rough.

Hope that helps...
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:00 AM
  #16543  
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thanks sir

so you ran 5 7 5?



what Tires did you run too sir?
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:21 AM
  #16544  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
thanks sir

so you ran 5 7 5?



what Tires did you run too sir?
Yes, 5-7-5. Proline Tazers (Soft)
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:23 PM
  #16545  
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Originally Posted by o.s. power
ran the csi blue pistons today, definitely an improvement over the stock 5 hole pistons for sure.

i started at 60 wt and 50 wt associated oil front and rear, respectively. this was to light on the bench for sure, but i tried it anyway. the car soaked up the bumps incredibly well, there were imperfections in the track i didnt even know existed, thats how much and how quick the suspension was working with these pistons. the front of the car bottomed out easily, i switched to 70 wt and the car felt way better. i bumped up the rear to 60 wt and the car was even better. overall i am happy with 70/60 wt f/r, the 70 seems to be a bit high, the front wasnt working as much as what it was with the 60 wt.

i am running the 8.0 springs up front and kyosho yellow with the truggy tower out back. i tried the new 8.75 springs in the back, but the car just works better through the corners with the yellow kyosho springs.
Are you using ae oil? Running stock rear towers or truggy towers? What type of track are you running this set up?
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