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Mugen MBX6

Old 09-21-2010, 05:03 PM
  #9031  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Does anyone have any experiance with BCE Chassis, looking at purchasing one I have read somewhere that you might have to modify a couple of the pieces to fit? Any info?
you should really take a look at 337 racing chassis. I have been running it and it is great. He has addressed some of the common problems with the stock chassis. Get ahold of RPM1968 on here and he can get you info on these.
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:05 PM
  #9032  
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Originally Posted by 1fastguy1
Its rarely an engine issue but an overfill issue, it happened to me for a while even with the B6. When you overfill the tank then slap the lid closed it floods the engine causing it to stall. Couple fixes are, done overfill the tank (hard for a pitguy to do) don't slam the lid closed (close it slowly then press it down to seal it). Use a fuel gun (it leaves enough out to not have a problem or after overfilling and slamming the lid shut tilt the car ( wing in the air front end down) this will put air back in the line all these work
Mo, what you are disturbing is all related to tank pressure.. a longer pressure line lowers the pressure in the system and when you tune your engine for the lower pressure there is no more issues in my experience.

Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Does anyone have any experience with BCE Chassis, looking at purchasing one I have read somewhere that you might have to modify a couple of the pieces to fit? Any info?
direct fit chris. they are very good quality, and a couple mm longer in the rear.
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:14 PM
  #9033  
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Originally Posted by jpalessi
Mo, what you are disturbing is all related to tank pressure.. a longer pressure line lowers the pressure in the system and when you tune your engine for the lower pressure there is no more issues in my experience.


direct fit chris. they are very good quality, and a couple mm longer in the rear.
thanks joe
see u at the barn for rd 4
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Old 09-21-2010, 06:21 PM
  #9034  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Does anyone have any experiance with BCE Chassis, looking at purchasing one I have read somewhere that you might have to modify a couple of the pieces to fit? Any info?
I run BCE on the buggy and truggy both, IMO it is the best upgrade to do !
The buggy is more stable and rotates better. The truck with this chassis is freakin awsome
Both are a direct fit with NO modifications.
Hope this helps,

Scott
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Old 09-21-2010, 06:25 PM
  #9035  
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Originally Posted by shinnbad12
I run BCE on the buggy and truggy both, IMO it is the best upgrade to do !
The buggy is more stable and rotates better. The truck with this chassis is freakin awsome
Both are a direct fit with NO modifications.
Hope this helps,

Scott
thanks Scott
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Old 09-21-2010, 06:58 PM
  #9036  
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guys... what ere the weights of your buggys???

I think mine is a little heavy.
"3.5kilos" with everything on it

I have already changed the axles, drive cups to aluminum.
titanium screws.
titanium turn buckles
I think the aluminum damper stays front and rear makes it a little heavier

my buggy comes with:
nova plus4
futaba servos
AKA tires
metal hydryte receiver batteries

any ideas to shred of some weight? 0.2 kilos would be great!!
THANKS!!!!

Last edited by ANAKIN; 09-21-2010 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 09-21-2010, 08:30 PM
  #9037  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Does anyone have any experiance with BCE Chassis, looking at purchasing one I have read somewhere that you might have to modify a couple of the pieces to fit? Any info?
CHRIS, IF you are going to run an aftermarket chassis, hands down go with the BCE. It will rotate better, lighten the buggy up and help the way it jumps. Make sure you lighten up your shock oil when using this chassis.
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Old 09-21-2010, 08:32 PM
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If I did my math right your buggy weighs around 7.72 pounds. My buggy has the same lightened parts as yours but I only have the aluminum front shock tower. I also use a lipo receiver pack, aluminum steering posts, and a bce chassis. My buggy weighs right at 7.45 with fuel, body, everything. A few minor parts and you can easily get to where you want to be.
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Old 09-22-2010, 03:53 AM
  #9039  
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Originally Posted by mugenmonster
CHRIS, IF you are going to run an aftermarket chassis, hands down go with the BCE. It will rotate better, lighten the buggy up and help the way it jumps. Make sure you lighten up your shock oil when using this chassis.
Currently I run 450 front 400 rear, u think I should go lighter
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Old 09-22-2010, 04:14 AM
  #9040  
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Default Rear shocks

After the main i noticed :both of my rear shock shaft been bend close to the piston.I did not crash or landed extremely bad.The track where I raced has huge jumps though ....I wondering if anybody else had the same problem before.If yes what was the reason and what can I do to prevent it? It's a little odd because notthing else broke and both of the shaft been bend in the same time ..Let me know...thanks!
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Old 09-22-2010, 04:50 AM
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This is useually due to an impact to the rear of your carwhile the shocks are extended. For instance, if you are slowing at the end of a straight away your front dives and the rear is fully extended. If you get rear ended at this point it is very possible to bend both shafts at the top.
I raced at JCP in Indiana for the last two years and this is a monster track with big jumps and no problem.
mugen has (IMO) the best shocks out, so replace your bent shafts and watch your A$$. LOL

Scott
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Old 09-22-2010, 05:23 AM
  #9042  
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Originally Posted by jpz_67
If I did my math right your buggy weighs around 7.72 pounds. My buggy has the same lightened parts as yours but I only have the aluminum front shock tower. I also use a lipo receiver pack, aluminum steering posts, and a bce chassis. My buggy weighs right at 7.45 with fuel, body, everything. A few minor parts and you can easily get to where you want to be.
thanks a lot. i am planning to replace my aluminum shock towers with the standard carbon fiber. and also nimh to lipo receiver battery. isn't it that the BCE chassis are about 50grams heavier that the stock mugen chassis? not sure.
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Old 09-22-2010, 05:39 AM
  #9043  
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Originally Posted by shinnbad12
This is useually due to an impact to the rear of your carwhile the shocks are extended. For instance, if you are slowing at the end of a straight away your front dives and the rear is fully extended. If you get rear ended at this point it is very possible to bend both shafts at the top.
I raced at JCP in Indiana for the last two years and this is a monster track with big jumps and no problem.
mugen has (IMO) the best shocks out, so replace your bent shafts and watch your A$$. LOL

Scott
Ok thanks Scott !I agree the mugen shock is very good!!I never had problem with it before,( I have drive mbx6 atlist 20 gall).
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:14 AM
  #9044  
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Does anybody knows the part # of the shock shaft bushing ?(that little bushing under the dumper seal o-ring)I can't find it....thanks!
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:30 AM
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i believe it is eo520
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