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Old 01-08-2007, 04:17 AM   #1831
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Default 4.5

guys were is the best and cheapested place to buy a 4.5 with speedy complete
THANKS
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Old 01-08-2007, 09:21 PM   #1832
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Check the track 1st, Some one might be trying to get rid of one.
Then the loacal hobby shop some one might have one on consignment.
You will have a better chance at getting it quicker and getting a warranty.
Use the internet as a last resort. Keep your money local. You'll feel better trying to support your local team 1st.
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Old 01-09-2007, 01:39 AM   #1833
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Cheapest place I found was Tower Hobbies but as UN4RACING said local is better, it helps your stores stock more goods when you need them
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Old 01-09-2007, 02:09 AM   #1834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOOB-SMOKE
guys were is the best and cheapested place to buy a 4.5 with speedy complete
THANKS

Check www.StormerHobbies.com. Cheapest I have found outside of catching a lucky break on eBay.
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Old 01-11-2007, 05:38 AM   #1835
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Unhappy Shattered 3.5R Rotor

Hello

I have and TC4 FT running standard gearing 72/18 with the 3.5r.

I have used the car about 10 min over the week the motor stopped with a strange noise. The rotor is shattered.

Has anybody else had this problem?

Will the can be ok? (looks ok)

Any help would be great.

Thanks
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Old 01-11-2007, 06:32 AM   #1836
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If the place you bought it cant help, just send it back. Sound's like a bad rotor to me. And from what I've seen the coil is protected from the rotor.
I would guess the can's ok. Try a new rotor if it doesnt work then you will have an extra rotor. Deffenitly check the stater, And board. There's alot electronic's at the end of the can. Maybe charlie from novak will catch this one. He can give better terminologie's. If your 72/18 is to low of a gear, then maybe that could be it but I would guess not but maybe. The 3.5 has the sintered rotor. And that's the bad boy of the novak line. Good luck.
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Old 01-11-2007, 09:46 PM   #1837
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Thumbs up 3.5 shattered rotor

Quote:
Originally Posted by UN4RACING
If the place you bought it cant help, just send it back. Sound's like a bad rotor to me. And from what I've seen the coil is protected from the rotor.
I would guess the can's ok. Try a new rotor if it doesnt work then you will have an extra rotor. Deffenitly check the stater, And board. There's alot electronic's at the end of the can. Maybe charlie from novak will catch this one. He can give better terminologie's. If your 72/18 is to low of a gear, then maybe that could be it but I would guess not but maybe. The 3.5 has the sintered rotor. And that's the bad boy of the novak line. Good luck.
Thanks UN4RACING

I have replaced the rotor and all looks to the good

I will post a few pics of the rotor so everybody can see. It looks like the poxy/glue or whatever it is has let go and thats the end on the rotor.
I have see one other case of a brand new 3.5 novak at the Australia National event in November do the samething after about 4/5 laps. Didn't mean much then but strange now that I think about it.

Again thanks for the help and will keep you all informed of the out come from novak.

Waz (Aust)
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Old 01-12-2007, 11:26 AM   #1838
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I've heard at the track that Novak is coming out with a new brushless system (I'm not refering to the 4 cell GTB). Can anyone shed some light on this?

Cheerz
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Old 01-12-2007, 05:15 PM   #1839
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Ouch. Just be sure to check very closely for any debris inside. I've had folks grenade rotors and damage the motor's internals.

Other then "simply bad rotor" excessive RPM, heat, or shock damage are the main things would would think to cause a rotor to let go.

Thanks
Charlie

Nothing other then the 4 cell GTB is coming anytime soon. There is ALWAYS something in the works though..... always......
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Old 01-12-2007, 05:19 PM   #1840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
There is ALWAYS something in the works though..... always......

Any chance of a "9.5" to bridge the gap between the 4300 and 5800, to give us a true 19T equal? It's the only motor really missing from the line...
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Old 01-12-2007, 07:10 PM   #1841
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Unhappy Clueless on Brushless!!

Hey Charlie,

Can you shed some light on the 4.5 GTB. The frequecy settings does it go from mild to wild like regular esc's or does the 4.5 run best on the stock settings?
I like the factory settings just fine I just have a need to know. Can't find any info in the instructions or the website?
Thanks
Max
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Old 01-14-2007, 07:38 PM   #1842
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Hi Guys! I just finished sending out an email to Charlie on this a few mins ago but I thought i'd post the query here as well as some of you may have experiences to share on the matter. It can be kind of a stupid question but i'll post it anyway. I'm a nob when it comes to brushless and last weekend was the first time i raced with this system. I'll also share Charlie's response once he replies to my email (unless he replies here instead).

"Hi Charlie,

Sorry to bother but I have a question on the GTB/3.5r combo. When the esc "thermals", does/should it go to a complete shut down?

Reason i ask is because (sorry, this is a bit long...) i ran my 3.5 at a club race for the first time last Saturday. It was crazy fast but at about the 3 1/2 min mark, at the end of the straight the car just suddenly slowed down and stayed in a crawling "cruise control" state for about 5 secs. After those 5 secs., the power just suddenly came back and then ran normally again til the end of the heat. I dint have a temp gun on me right after that main so took me a while to get to my pit table and by then the temp reading was at 160*F - I assume though that this had already gone down a bit since i wasnt able to get a reading immediately after the run. Next run pretty same thing happened, about 3.5 mins into the run - slow crawl for about 5 secs then power comes back and in full force and I finish the main again. This time i took the temp and it was 200*F. So i know i was overheating and probably a thermal problem. Just weird that instead of completely shutting down that did what i described - is that normal? Is my GTB damaged after this happening twice?

Didn't get to test with another pack as i had to leave immediately after the 2nd main (still won the race thought with 2 firsts ). I will gear down to get an FDR of 11.14 instead of the 11.0 ratio i was using and see how it goes.

Just wanted to know if what i experienced is normal and should not be a problem as long as i keep the temp to within the 160-175*F range. Also, is there damage that will be caused if I am running at temps below 160*F? Like if at the end of a run the temps are only in the 130*F range?

Love the system! Its crazy fast! Just want to be sure i dont do anything that could potentially damage it.

Hoping for your reply. Many thanks in advance!"


... any thoughts?
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:08 PM   #1843
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Hiya

I have a novak gtb/3.5 brushless system. The track i run on has a 20m straight then a slight bend followed by another 20m straight. To me it seems/feels like its too much motor for this track, i barely touch full throttle before i have to let off for the turn, and the punch from this motor is crazy. I dialed down my throttle response and hipoint on the radio to accomodate the punch and full throttle. My question is is this a bad thing to do , or should i rather just get a slower motor , maybe a 5.5 ?

Thanks
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:28 PM   #1844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonTrap
Hiya

I have a novak gtb/3.5 brushless system. The track i run on has a 20m straight then a slight bend followed by another 20m straight. To me it seems/feels like its too much motor for this track, i barely touch full throttle before i have to let off for the turn, and the punch from this motor is crazy. I dialed down my throttle response and hipoint on the radio to accomodate the punch and full throttle. My question is is this a bad thing to do , or should i rather just get a slower motor , maybe a 5.5 ?

Thanks
go with the 5.5 , 5.5 is not that slow of a motor when geared correctly
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Old 01-15-2007, 12:43 AM   #1845
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Hiya

would even a 5.5 be too powerful for this track ? , it lists on novak website that it pushes 380watts. We normally ran 9-10turn brushed motors which push about 250-260 watts. Many have gone over to the LRP 4-star/5.5 which is about 270+ watts. So would it be best to get a brushless motor within this watt range? so even say a novak 6.5 ?

BTW is a novak 6.5 the same as say a LRP 5.5/4star ?

Thanks
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