New Novak Brusless System
#1831
4.5
guys were is the best and cheapested place to buy a 4.5 with speedy complete
THANKS
THANKS
#1832
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
Check the track 1st, Some one might be trying to get rid of one.
Then the loacal hobby shop some one might have one on consignment.
You will have a better chance at getting it quicker and getting a warranty.
Use the internet as a last resort. Keep your money local. You'll feel better trying to support your local team 1st.
Then the loacal hobby shop some one might have one on consignment.
You will have a better chance at getting it quicker and getting a warranty.
Use the internet as a last resort. Keep your money local. You'll feel better trying to support your local team 1st.
Last edited by UN4RACING; 01-12-2007 at 12:34 PM.
#1834
Tech Elite
iTrader: (75)
Originally Posted by NOOB-SMOKE
guys were is the best and cheapested place to buy a 4.5 with speedy complete
THANKS
THANKS
Check www.StormerHobbies.com. Cheapest I have found outside of catching a lucky break on eBay.
#1835
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Shattered 3.5R Rotor
Hello
I have and TC4 FT running standard gearing 72/18 with the 3.5r.
I have used the car about 10 min over the week the motor stopped with a strange noise. The rotor is shattered.
Has anybody else had this problem?
Will the can be ok? (looks ok)
Any help would be great.
Thanks
I have and TC4 FT running standard gearing 72/18 with the 3.5r.
I have used the car about 10 min over the week the motor stopped with a strange noise. The rotor is shattered.
Has anybody else had this problem?
Will the can be ok? (looks ok)
Any help would be great.
Thanks
#1836
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
If the place you bought it cant help, just send it back. Sound's like a bad rotor to me. And from what I've seen the coil is protected from the rotor.
I would guess the can's ok. Try a new rotor if it doesnt work then you will have an extra rotor. Deffenitly check the stater, And board. There's alot electronic's at the end of the can. Maybe charlie from novak will catch this one. He can give better terminologie's. If your 72/18 is to low of a gear, then maybe that could be it but I would guess not but maybe. The 3.5 has the sintered rotor. And that's the bad boy of the novak line. Good luck.
I would guess the can's ok. Try a new rotor if it doesnt work then you will have an extra rotor. Deffenitly check the stater, And board. There's alot electronic's at the end of the can. Maybe charlie from novak will catch this one. He can give better terminologie's. If your 72/18 is to low of a gear, then maybe that could be it but I would guess not but maybe. The 3.5 has the sintered rotor. And that's the bad boy of the novak line. Good luck.
#1837
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
3.5 shattered rotor
Originally Posted by UN4RACING
If the place you bought it cant help, just send it back. Sound's like a bad rotor to me. And from what I've seen the coil is protected from the rotor.
I would guess the can's ok. Try a new rotor if it doesnt work then you will have an extra rotor. Deffenitly check the stater, And board. There's alot electronic's at the end of the can. Maybe charlie from novak will catch this one. He can give better terminologie's. If your 72/18 is to low of a gear, then maybe that could be it but I would guess not but maybe. The 3.5 has the sintered rotor. And that's the bad boy of the novak line. Good luck.
I would guess the can's ok. Try a new rotor if it doesnt work then you will have an extra rotor. Deffenitly check the stater, And board. There's alot electronic's at the end of the can. Maybe charlie from novak will catch this one. He can give better terminologie's. If your 72/18 is to low of a gear, then maybe that could be it but I would guess not but maybe. The 3.5 has the sintered rotor. And that's the bad boy of the novak line. Good luck.
I have replaced the rotor and all looks to the good
I will post a few pics of the rotor so everybody can see. It looks like the poxy/glue or whatever it is has let go and thats the end on the rotor.
I have see one other case of a brand new 3.5 novak at the Australia National event in November do the samething after about 4/5 laps. Didn't mean much then but strange now that I think about it.
Again thanks for the help and will keep you all informed of the out come from novak.
Waz (Aust)
#1839
Ouch. Just be sure to check very closely for any debris inside. I've had folks grenade rotors and damage the motor's internals.
Other then "simply bad rotor" excessive RPM, heat, or shock damage are the main things would would think to cause a rotor to let go.
Thanks
Charlie
Nothing other then the 4 cell GTB is coming anytime soon. There is ALWAYS something in the works though..... always......
Other then "simply bad rotor" excessive RPM, heat, or shock damage are the main things would would think to cause a rotor to let go.
Thanks
Charlie
Nothing other then the 4 cell GTB is coming anytime soon. There is ALWAYS something in the works though..... always......
#1841
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Clueless on Brushless!!
Hey Charlie,
Can you shed some light on the 4.5 GTB. The frequecy settings does it go from mild to wild like regular esc's or does the 4.5 run best on the stock settings?
I like the factory settings just fine I just have a need to know. Can't find any info in the instructions or the website?
Thanks
Max
Can you shed some light on the 4.5 GTB. The frequecy settings does it go from mild to wild like regular esc's or does the 4.5 run best on the stock settings?
I like the factory settings just fine I just have a need to know. Can't find any info in the instructions or the website?
Thanks
Max
#1842
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
Hi Guys! I just finished sending out an email to Charlie on this a few mins ago but I thought i'd post the query here as well as some of you may have experiences to share on the matter. It can be kind of a stupid question but i'll post it anyway. I'm a nob when it comes to brushless and last weekend was the first time i raced with this system. I'll also share Charlie's response once he replies to my email (unless he replies here instead).
"Hi Charlie,
Sorry to bother but I have a question on the GTB/3.5r combo. When the esc "thermals", does/should it go to a complete shut down?
Reason i ask is because (sorry, this is a bit long...) i ran my 3.5 at a club race for the first time last Saturday. It was crazy fast but at about the 3 1/2 min mark, at the end of the straight the car just suddenly slowed down and stayed in a crawling "cruise control" state for about 5 secs. After those 5 secs., the power just suddenly came back and then ran normally again til the end of the heat. I dint have a temp gun on me right after that main so took me a while to get to my pit table and by then the temp reading was at 160*F - I assume though that this had already gone down a bit since i wasnt able to get a reading immediately after the run. Next run pretty same thing happened, about 3.5 mins into the run - slow crawl for about 5 secs then power comes back and in full force and I finish the main again. This time i took the temp and it was 200*F. So i know i was overheating and probably a thermal problem. Just weird that instead of completely shutting down that did what i described - is that normal? Is my GTB damaged after this happening twice?
Didn't get to test with another pack as i had to leave immediately after the 2nd main (still won the race thought with 2 firsts ). I will gear down to get an FDR of 11.14 instead of the 11.0 ratio i was using and see how it goes.
Just wanted to know if what i experienced is normal and should not be a problem as long as i keep the temp to within the 160-175*F range. Also, is there damage that will be caused if I am running at temps below 160*F? Like if at the end of a run the temps are only in the 130*F range?
Love the system! Its crazy fast! Just want to be sure i dont do anything that could potentially damage it.
Hoping for your reply. Many thanks in advance!"
... any thoughts?
"Hi Charlie,
Sorry to bother but I have a question on the GTB/3.5r combo. When the esc "thermals", does/should it go to a complete shut down?
Reason i ask is because (sorry, this is a bit long...) i ran my 3.5 at a club race for the first time last Saturday. It was crazy fast but at about the 3 1/2 min mark, at the end of the straight the car just suddenly slowed down and stayed in a crawling "cruise control" state for about 5 secs. After those 5 secs., the power just suddenly came back and then ran normally again til the end of the heat. I dint have a temp gun on me right after that main so took me a while to get to my pit table and by then the temp reading was at 160*F - I assume though that this had already gone down a bit since i wasnt able to get a reading immediately after the run. Next run pretty same thing happened, about 3.5 mins into the run - slow crawl for about 5 secs then power comes back and in full force and I finish the main again. This time i took the temp and it was 200*F. So i know i was overheating and probably a thermal problem. Just weird that instead of completely shutting down that did what i described - is that normal? Is my GTB damaged after this happening twice?
Didn't get to test with another pack as i had to leave immediately after the 2nd main (still won the race thought with 2 firsts ). I will gear down to get an FDR of 11.14 instead of the 11.0 ratio i was using and see how it goes.
Just wanted to know if what i experienced is normal and should not be a problem as long as i keep the temp to within the 160-175*F range. Also, is there damage that will be caused if I am running at temps below 160*F? Like if at the end of a run the temps are only in the 130*F range?
Love the system! Its crazy fast! Just want to be sure i dont do anything that could potentially damage it.
Hoping for your reply. Many thanks in advance!"
... any thoughts?
#1843
Tech Adept
Hiya
I have a novak gtb/3.5 brushless system. The track i run on has a 20m straight then a slight bend followed by another 20m straight. To me it seems/feels like its too much motor for this track, i barely touch full throttle before i have to let off for the turn, and the punch from this motor is crazy. I dialed down my throttle response and hipoint on the radio to accomodate the punch and full throttle. My question is is this a bad thing to do , or should i rather just get a slower motor , maybe a 5.5 ?
Thanks
I have a novak gtb/3.5 brushless system. The track i run on has a 20m straight then a slight bend followed by another 20m straight. To me it seems/feels like its too much motor for this track, i barely touch full throttle before i have to let off for the turn, and the punch from this motor is crazy. I dialed down my throttle response and hipoint on the radio to accomodate the punch and full throttle. My question is is this a bad thing to do , or should i rather just get a slower motor , maybe a 5.5 ?
Thanks
#1844
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Originally Posted by MoonTrap
Hiya
I have a novak gtb/3.5 brushless system. The track i run on has a 20m straight then a slight bend followed by another 20m straight. To me it seems/feels like its too much motor for this track, i barely touch full throttle before i have to let off for the turn, and the punch from this motor is crazy. I dialed down my throttle response and hipoint on the radio to accomodate the punch and full throttle. My question is is this a bad thing to do , or should i rather just get a slower motor , maybe a 5.5 ?
Thanks
I have a novak gtb/3.5 brushless system. The track i run on has a 20m straight then a slight bend followed by another 20m straight. To me it seems/feels like its too much motor for this track, i barely touch full throttle before i have to let off for the turn, and the punch from this motor is crazy. I dialed down my throttle response and hipoint on the radio to accomodate the punch and full throttle. My question is is this a bad thing to do , or should i rather just get a slower motor , maybe a 5.5 ?
Thanks
#1845
Tech Adept
Hiya
would even a 5.5 be too powerful for this track ? , it lists on novak website that it pushes 380watts. We normally ran 9-10turn brushed motors which push about 250-260 watts. Many have gone over to the LRP 4-star/5.5 which is about 270+ watts. So would it be best to get a brushless motor within this watt range? so even say a novak 6.5 ?
BTW is a novak 6.5 the same as say a LRP 5.5/4star ?
Thanks
would even a 5.5 be too powerful for this track ? , it lists on novak website that it pushes 380watts. We normally ran 9-10turn brushed motors which push about 250-260 watts. Many have gone over to the LRP 4-star/5.5 which is about 270+ watts. So would it be best to get a brushless motor within this watt range? so even say a novak 6.5 ?
BTW is a novak 6.5 the same as say a LRP 5.5/4star ?
Thanks