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New Novak Brusless System

New Novak Brusless System

Old 01-02-2007, 08:40 AM
  #1816  
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thanks for the info

re. # 1, i just downloaded the manual and saw that 160-180 deg F for both the esc and motor is the safe operating range.

re. # 3, again, saw in the manual that only in profile 6, brushed mode, can i change the drive frequency. anyone know what's the freq for brushless in profiles 1 to 5? just curious

re. # 4, i saw the v-shaped heatsink and it looks cool in blue to match my BD but i prefer to use clip-ons, good to know that i can use them without fear of shorting i plan to use my much more motor cooler on this in between heats. this is still okay, right? because the can will get wet from the motor cooler, which is what happens when i use it on my brushed motors. the 3.5R can be used with an external peltier type motor cooler?

re. # 5, i think ill just time my runs to avoid low lipo voltage. i dont want to plug in another gadget, too much wires and stuff on my car PT, fans, etc. btw, would you know how soon the next gen GTB with USB will be out? :wierd: i just shelled out for a new 3.5R system (arriving in a couple of weeks)

re. # 6, ill wire it to the batts as you suggested

thanks again

anyone here for question no. 2? at what point do the gtb and 3.5R thermal? the safe temp range is from 160-180 deg F. i live in a tropical country and hope that dual fans can help handle the heat
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Old 01-03-2007, 01:45 AM
  #1817  
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Pardon the inquiry that follows but I posted it here because it seems this is the most active thread that discusses Novak brushless systems.

I bought my son the Supersport Plus ESC with SS5800 that he runs on his T4.

My questions is: Can I replace the current capacitor on the SS+ ESC with the larger capacitor that comes from the GTB ESC?
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:19 AM
  #1818  
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When I was running the SS5800 I ran the largest cap I could get from Novak and it seemed to help a tiny bit with the thermalling. What I noticed worked the best however was running a fan on the esc.
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Old 01-03-2007, 09:01 PM
  #1819  
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Originally Posted by marvi
some GTB + 3.5R questions: (very sorry if these were answered before )

1. what is the safe operating temp range of the motor? of the esc? at what point (degrees) does the esc and motor shut down?

2. what is the suggested fdr? ive read somewhere that 11.00 is a good starting point. is this correct?

3. can drive frequency be changed for both brushed and brushless profiles? if yes, what is the suggested drive frequency for the 3.5R?

4. can i use a clip-on aluminum heatsink for the 3.5R motor? since the can is divided into 3 sections (2 silver sections with 1 purple section in the middle), is it okay to clip on a heatsink that will touch all 3 sections at the same time - no shorting will happen? also, since the endbell is plastic, im guessing the fans should blow towards just the whole can, right?

5. does the GTB have low voltage LIPO cutoff?

6. ive read that the GTB fan plug is 6V. can i wire up 2 more additional fans rated at 6v in parallel to that plug? or am i better off wiring the additional fans straight to the + & - of batts for 7.2V power?

thanks in advance for any info

(edit: added question # 6)
im using 4.5 but looks like the motor is over power already for the track. i had my eyes for the 3.5 but i think it would not be suitable for our track.
regarding heatsink, im not using any as to the motor can is already a heatsink. but i did install another fan to the gtb plug to the receiver's +/- slot. Ive run for 8 minutes without any problem.
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:27 PM
  #1820  
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Originally Posted by marvi
some GTB + 3.5R questions: (very sorry if these were answered before )

1. what is the safe operating temp range of the motor? of the esc? at what point (degrees) does the esc and motor shut down?
-Not sure as I'm running on a 1/8 scale track with a 3.5 in the tropics without any problems of overheating.

2. what is the suggested fdr? ive read somewhere that 11.00 is a good starting point. is this correct?
-Depends on your track,on a 1/8 scale track I'm using 10.5 fdr

3. can drive frequency be changed for both brushed and brushless profiles? if yes, what is the suggested drive frequency for the 3.5R?
-Just use the stock profile, as we probably can't feel the diff

4. can i use a clip-on aluminum heatsink for the 3.5R motor? since the can is divided into 3 sections (2 silver sections with 1 purple section in the middle), is it okay to clip on a heatsink that will touch all 3 sections at the same time - no shorting will happen? also, since the endbell is plastic, im guessing the fans should blow towards just the whole can, right?
-No shorting will happen.I'm using a clip-on...

5. does the GTB have low voltage LIPO cutoff?
-Don't think so...

6. ive read that the GTB fan plug is 6V. can i wire up 2 more additional fans rated at 6v in parallel to that plug? or am i better off wiring the additional fans straight to the + & - of batts for 7.2V power?
-You're better off getting an aftermarket fan to replace the tiny novak one, and solder the leads to the battery for 7.2V.What a difference 1.2V makes!

thanks in advance for any info

(edit: added question # 6)
Ans in red
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:36 PM
  #1821  
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Originally Posted by marvi
thanks for the info

re. # 4, i saw the v-shaped heatsink and it looks cool in blue to match my BD but i prefer to use clip-ons, good to know that i can use them without fear of shorting i plan to use my much more motor cooler on this in between heats. this is still okay, right? because the can will get wet from the motor cooler, which is what happens when i use it on my brushed motors. the 3.5R can be used with an external peltier type motor cooler?
Fred:

I'm not too sure about the peltier type coolers... The novak BL motors use electronic devices for sensing the rotor position. these may not agree with the water that can form within the motor itself.

If you want to make sure, we can open your motor, take out the sensor assembly (its small and is easy enough to extract) then dunk it in electrical varnish to completely seal it against moisture. Send me an SMS if you still want to try it.
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:28 AM
  #1822  
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Default Brushless settings!

I have a 4.5 and on a medium size track I'm running between 9.8-10.2 FDR and my TA05 is crazy fast. I'm running the factory profile#1 but I see there are a lot of settings that I don't have a clue what they mean and how it will affect the car. My main question is by changing the frequency settting what affect will it have using profile #1. I know that on std ESC that theres stock to aggressive mod.,so it this the case with the brushless? How will the deadband setting also affect my car. Has anybody tried the new nickel plated rotor? Is it worth the it?
I know it is more durable at high temps which is not a problem, coming off the track the temp is around 125 F. but is there any other advantage?
Sorry if this question has been asked before but I'm a newbie to brushless!
Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:41 AM
  #1823  
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Talking LIPO VOLTAGE CUTOFF

Marvi,

Here's a link to Novak has a lipo cutoff for brushed or brushless!
http://www.teamnovak.com/products/lipo_cutoff_module/index.html

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Old 01-04-2007, 04:53 PM
  #1824  
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thanks again for the info

rough512: hmm, interesting suggestion there but wouldnt that void any warranty? anyway, ill see your 3.5R's in action this saturday im still 2 weeks away from running though
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Old 01-06-2007, 02:52 AM
  #1825  
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Originally Posted by marvi
but wouldnt that void any warranty?
Yes it may. We can do it after the warranty runs out then

Anyway, the only way you can destroy these motors is if you break the rotor by over-revving and if you crash the motor hard enough to ruin the sensors. Both will be easy to detect and you can't claim any warranty.
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:18 PM
  #1826  
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Default SS5800 Stuttering

I've asked this question before but there was no reply. I hope someone here can answer.

I sold a SupuerSport 5800 to my brother about a month ago and now he's complaining that it "stutters." When he tries to accelerate, it doesn't do it in a linear or smooth fashion. I tried it out at the track the other night and the only thing I can compare it to is if you've got someone learning how to drive stick the first time and they miss shift. He says it started last week and at first he thought it was the battery pack but after several packs, the problem persisted.

I touched the heatsink on his esc and that thing was BURNING hot. Way hotter than the heatsink on my SS5800 and we're both geared almost the same. He's got a 71/23 and I've got a 72/22. We both have a Yokomo SSG.

Any clues? Is his SuperSport about to fry? Does it need a new capacitor? I thought there was a sensor in these things to keep them from overheating? Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:23 PM
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One things we've seen happen a lot with stock rotors is that the shaft will spin inside the rotor magnet, and give the motor a feeling like it's slipping. You can usually hear it spinning, but not taking off. That's only one possibility, though, there's other things that could cause similar problems. I would email Charlie at Novak ([email protected]) and see what he thinks. He's on the boards sometimes, but is fairly busy traveling to races and such.

If you've got another rotor you can try, you might stick it in there and see what happens.

Originally Posted by Aries326
I've asked this question before but there was no reply. I hope someone here can answer.

I sold a SupuerSport 5800 to my brother about a month ago and now he's complaining that it "stutters." When he tries to accelerate, it doesn't do it in a linear or smooth fashion. I tried it out at the track the other night and the only thing I can compare it to is if you've got someone learning how to drive stick the first time and they miss shift. He says it started last week and at first he thought it was the battery pack but after several packs, the problem persisted.

I touched the heatsink on his esc and that thing was BURNING hot. Way hotter than the heatsink on my SS5800 and we're both geared almost the same. He's got a 71/23 and I've got a 72/22. We both have a Yokomo SSG.

Any clues? Is his SuperSport about to fry? Does it need a new capacitor? I thought there was a sensor in these things to keep them from overheating? Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 01-06-2007, 01:37 PM
  #1828  
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Pull it apart and see if its shorted. Did it smell? If the coating on the winds are melted it may have shorted. It will run but stuttered. If its in the can its shot. Stomp on it and throw it away. As far as thermol protection, thats electonics. And that avatar makes me want one. Later dude let us know.
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Old 01-06-2007, 10:14 PM
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Thanks for the help, guys. I'll connect his esc to my SS5800 motor and see what happens. His motor and his esc did not have a burnt smell to it. I'll let you guys know what else I find with my bro's brushless.
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Old 01-07-2007, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by asw7576
Are u using 4 cells or 6 cells on GTB ?
I'm using 6 cells.
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