Schumacher Corner
Tech Regular
p-dub u got pm
hey all,
i'm gonna recieve my MI2 within the next few days as a part of a new team deal for Schumacher Denmark, so i've been reading about it a lot.
so far i have a few setups nicked from various sites (incl this one ) for both asphalt and carpet. Both rubber.
what i'm interested in is tips & tricks from you guys about the car which isn't with the car or listed anywhere else. I can't be arsed to dig through all 364 pages, so hope you understand
i'm gonna recieve my MI2 within the next few days as a part of a new team deal for Schumacher Denmark, so i've been reading about it a lot.
so far i have a few setups nicked from various sites (incl this one ) for both asphalt and carpet. Both rubber.
what i'm interested in is tips & tricks from you guys about the car which isn't with the car or listed anywhere else. I can't be arsed to dig through all 364 pages, so hope you understand
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by tony rivas
it fits right in with no cutting.
With the stock bumper, when you screw the upper mount down at the front, it compresses the bumper so that the upper mount can be screwed correctly into the bulkhead.
With the Pdub bumper being so stiff, when you screw the upper mount down at the front, it distorts the upper mount horribly, so that it ends up bowed in the middle. Is that normal?
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Yeah, but it doesnt make a difference for how well it functions. You can dremel the top of the bumper so the upper plastic bumper sits down about 3mm in the foam bumper. But I wouldn't reccomend it unless you are handy with a dremel or wouldnt mind spending the money on a new bumper if you screwed yours up beyond the point where you would still use it.
Hi
To all that have that have kindly purchased Cool-Can-Fan's for their cars. We now have a NEW L K website
Cheers Malc (The-Cool-Can-Fan-Man)
www.coolcanfan.com
To all that have that have kindly purchased Cool-Can-Fan's for their cars. We now have a NEW L K website
Cheers Malc (The-Cool-Can-Fan-Man)
www.coolcanfan.com
is there an overall gear ratio that the mi2 should be at no matter what track you run at? i am trying to underestand the different spur gear/pinion gear combos, but i need to understand the gear ratio first. right now i run at speedline in st pete, fl, with a monster stock motor i will run a 95 spur gear with a 26 pinion for an overall gear of 6.58. if there is a site that explains this better please let me know. thanks for all the help.
chris
chris
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Gearing is determined by a number of things. Motor, track size/layout, traction, all this stuff. Usually you'll start with a certain ratio for the type of motor you're running. I haven't run stock in a long time so I'm not too sure on the gearing but say you're running 19 turn. If you're running a Reedy Quad mag 19 turn, they like to be geared around 6.2. Take that as a starting point. If the track is really small and tight, you'll want to go to a lower gear ratio (Higher number) like a 6.6 or so. This will give the car more punch coming out of the corers and will spool up faster so it can reach top speed and max RPM before hitting the end of the straight. If it's a big wide open track, you may want to gear up (smaller ratio number) so that the car won't top out too soon down the longest straight. It's something that you have to experiment with every time you go to a new track or get a new layout. A good rule of thumb is to gear it so that the motor will top out (hit max RPMs) about 3/4 of the way down the longest straight.
One other thing that confuses people all the time is terminology about gearing. A lower number (6.0) is actually a higher gear ratio than a higher number (7.0) Here's a good way to look at it. In your full size car, First gear would be maybe 8.0:1. That's low gear. Second gear may be 6.0:1 and so on until you're in high gear at 1:1. So the lower the number, the higher the gear ratio. So when you gear up a tooth on your pinion, your ratio number will get smaller but this is a higher gear ratio. (I hope that didn't confuse you more ) To gear up you can either go with a larger pinion or a smaller spur gear. The closer the gears are in size, the higher it's geared. The opposite is also true, to gear down you either go smaller on the pinion or larger on the spur. Here's the formula for figuring gear ratios.
(Spur/Pinion)xTransmition ratio=Final Drive Ratio
95/26=3.65x1.8=6.57
One other thing that confuses people all the time is terminology about gearing. A lower number (6.0) is actually a higher gear ratio than a higher number (7.0) Here's a good way to look at it. In your full size car, First gear would be maybe 8.0:1. That's low gear. Second gear may be 6.0:1 and so on until you're in high gear at 1:1. So the lower the number, the higher the gear ratio. So when you gear up a tooth on your pinion, your ratio number will get smaller but this is a higher gear ratio. (I hope that didn't confuse you more ) To gear up you can either go with a larger pinion or a smaller spur gear. The closer the gears are in size, the higher it's geared. The opposite is also true, to gear down you either go smaller on the pinion or larger on the spur. Here's the formula for figuring gear ratios.
(Spur/Pinion)xTransmition ratio=Final Drive Ratio
95/26=3.65x1.8=6.57
Are you runnig the 20 tooth pulley or the 17? Just making sure you have your calculations correct. Make sure your using the 20 tooth if you are not. I would also try some smaller spur gears, down to even a 86 and recaculate with a different pinion to achieve the same ratio.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
hoe come alot of people use the 20t pully insted of the 17t
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by kid TT-01
hoe come alot of people use the 20t pully insted of the 17t
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I haven't used the 17 tooth but being a smaller gear makes the belt go around a tighter radius. That's got to cause a little drag in the drive train.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (264)
I have played with both the 17 feels better to me because I can run a larger pinion and smaller spur which seems to not have as much drag on the car through the corners IE: Keeps the the "spool" up. With the 20 tooth it seemed as soon as I let off the car wanted to lock up. I normally run a 110 to 115 spur when running the 17 tooth. I had to run a 120 to 125 spur when using the 20 tooth. Yes the drive train has a little more resistance but I haven't noticed it on the track.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
I have played with both the 17 feels better to me because I can run a larger pinion and smaller spur which seems to not have as much drag on the car through the corners IE: Keeps the the "spool" up. With the 20 tooth it seemed as soon as I let off the car wanted to lock up. I normally run a 110 to 115 spur when running the 17 tooth. I had to run a 120 to 125 spur when using the 20 tooth. Yes the drive train has a little more resistance but I haven't noticed it on the track.
BMI Parts
Hi all,
As i have been MIA for a while i missed out on some of the gossip going around. However, i heard that there is a new position on the front shock mount that everyone is adopting for the camber links. I was wondering if anyone had a part number for the new shock towers that included the raised holes and can i get this part pre-drilled if i order a bmi chasis (its about that time). Please let me know.
MI JEDI
As i have been MIA for a while i missed out on some of the gossip going around. However, i heard that there is a new position on the front shock mount that everyone is adopting for the camber links. I was wondering if anyone had a part number for the new shock towers that included the raised holes and can i get this part pre-drilled if i order a bmi chasis (its about that time). Please let me know.
MI JEDI
The BMI towers have been updated with all new specs