IslandBwoy

Do you guys lube your drive shfts with anything special when rebuilding 'em? I have the world cvd and while they are still moving free i want to be sure they stay that way. Should i lube them? And if so with what?

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I use a little bushing oil in mine.

The Teacher

iTrader: (62)

Help....!!!

I ran my Mi2 (...with Teemu chassis) for the first time this weekend on a high bite, tight, smooth track with rubber tires (cs-27's) and I could not get it to stop pushing (off power). My set up was as follows

Front:
50wt oil
Ass blue springs
Shocks all the way out on arm, one hole in on tower
2 hole piston (tamiya shocks)
2mm shims under inner hinge pins (no anti dive or kickup...flat)
.5 deg toe out
4 deg castor
2 deg camber
upper middle hole for inside camber link
Arms spaced in the middle

Rear:
40wt oil
Ass Silver springs
Shocks all the way out on the arm, one hole in on the tower
2 hole piston (tamiya shocks)
2mm shims under inner hinge pins (no anti dive or kickup...flat)
3 deg toe in (at the arm)
1.5 deg camber
upper middle hole for inside camber link position
Outside hole on hub for outside camber link position
Arms spaced to the rear

Can anyone help PW, STLNLST, AdrianM.....anybody???

The Teacher

iTrader: (62)

oops I forgot...Diffs front and rear (front semi tight)

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

First thing I'd do is go to 1.5 rear toe then lower the front hinge pins to 1mm. The rear toe will free up the rear going in and the lowering the front roll center will make the front more agressive. The rest of the setup looks pretty good, maybe go to 40wt in the front and 3 hole pistons.

The Teacher

iTrader: (62)

Thanks Jon, they all sound like logical changes to make. I'll try the roll center in the front first and work from there....

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

It seems like your car is setup to not rotate very hard. Try using the upper outer hole on the rear tower, and the outer hole on the rear hub for the camber link position, or try the lowest hole on the rear hub and the upper middle hole on the tower. I run one of those 2 combinations all the time.

1.5 degrees toe and lowering the front RC would work also.

You could also try adding rear droop to transfer more weight to the front end.

Also you should try moving your rear arms forward 1mm to get it to rotate harder.

I would try some other things before removing the front riser plate, I like to leave it in because its an easier change IMO and the riser plate helps protect the chassis from breaking. Like Jon said, most people are running the 3 hole pistons in the Tamiya shocks.

-Weylin

PW

The Teacher....The 2 main things I see right away is that the oil is to heavy for #2 pistons. Try #3 pistons (the white pistons) with 40wt oil front and rear. Second thing is move the rear shocks in one hole on the lower arm.

Run the upper outer hole on the rear hub and upper middle hole on the camber links front and rear tower.

MattW

Lower the front inner hinge pin. especially if that is 2mm on top of the carbon plate.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

If that's 2mm above the riser plate that's a problem I don't think I've ever seen more than the stock 2mm plate in the front used on asphalt.

speedxl

teacher what droop are you running front and rear. this will affect handling on exit aswell. Run less droop in the front then the rear it will make the car tighter on exit! I have driven on asphalt with a diff and the car will get an on power push, try and ake the diff balls out and use a cardboared header and tighten the diff completely. This will make an impromtu spool and you should have plenty on power steering!

King-G

I agree with what P.W, MattW, JonK etc has said..

lower the front pivot blocks...either flush on the 2mm riser plate, or remove the riser plate and use 1mm shims to raise the pivots just 1mm above the chassis.

go to 40 weight oil front and rear, with 3 hole pistons.

try a spool or the new oneway, contradictive to the general concensus, I have mega steering off power with a spool.

Perhaps try one step lighter front anti-roll bar.

reduce camber front and rear to around 1.25 degree's

If you lower the front roll centre as suggested, you will need to lower the rear, I suggest just 1mm shim under the rear pivots with the riser plate.

I suspect you are using the Kit pivot blocks, as you state 3 degree rear toe...the standard pivot blocks (plastic) raise the hinge pins .5mm over the alloy optional parts....even more reason to lower your pivot blocks.

reduce rear toe in to 2 degree.

upper middle hole camber link position on towers is spot on 95% of the time...

I generally run the outer link position on the rear hub set to inner position, raised 2mm.

IslandBwoy

Hey P.W. ,

Those RDX guys are talking a lota smack around here about how well Jeff has been driving if you know what i mean. I say it would be nice to see you put the smack down on him on his home courte this weekend ;-)

MI Jedi

PW

Islandboy....Jeff has been driving very well as of late and deserve all the credit. It's to bad that the guys smack talking are the ones that can't back it up normally and make the ones that due all the hard work and deserve the credit look bad. Also remember there is always 2 sides to every story and certian smack talkers only see and hear things that make them feel better....Sad, really

As for the ball-cups; I use the RPM ball-cups since they fit tighter than stock ones, but they do pop off much easier, so don't crash....LOL

Tony Rivas

iTrader: (56)

pw thanks again for this weekend help at speedline