Schumacher Corner
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Cole Trickle
I've been recommended to mount some washers somewhere in the steering, to reduce steering travel, thus improving the durability. Seaball explained it quite detailed with words, however, I would appreciate, if someone is able to post a picture of it.
Also, I'm considering the riser plates. Is I'm correct, when I think they'll alter the roll center?
Also, I'm considering the riser plates. Is I'm correct, when I think they'll alter the roll center?
You can alter the roll centre depending upon whether or not you use the riser plates and how many shims you add, to alter the distance between the suspension mounts and the chassis.
Fairly common practices include adding a 1mm shim to the rear riser plate (giving 3mm total) and removing the front riser plate altogether and only running a 1mm shim (giving 1mm total).
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by ottoman
We found that 1mm anti dive generally gives the car more steering ... carpet foam.
-If you raise the front rear toe block (the ones by the steering) to get antidive the car will turn in better and have less mid to exit steering.
-If you lower the front block to get antidive, it does just what the name implies, the car is more stable on entry (doesn't let the car dive) and has more steering mid to exit.
It all has to do with the roll centers
Although, like someone mentioned earlier, this is really dependent on the driver and his/her driving styles and hopefully mine isn't that far off from everybody else .
Hope I didn't come off sounding like a dope, but this is what I have found.
Later
jim
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by ottoman
So who's going to Vegas? It will be nice to finally meet some of you guys Nick is running mod foam and mod rubber... we haven't run mod rubber since the Novak was a rubber tire race this should be interesting
I'm going to Vegas, it will finally be nice to meet you in person
Later
Jim
Originally Posted by bender
The car comes standard with 2mm riser plates which the suspension mounts sit on.
You can alter the roll centre depending upon whether or not you use the riser plates and how many shims you add, to alter the distance between the suspension mounts and the chassis.
Fairly common practices include adding a 1mm shim to the rear riser plate (giving 3mm total) and removing the front riser plate altogether and only running a 1mm shim (giving 1mm total).
You can alter the roll centre depending upon whether or not you use the riser plates and how many shims you add, to alter the distance between the suspension mounts and the chassis.
Fairly common practices include adding a 1mm shim to the rear riser plate (giving 3mm total) and removing the front riser plate altogether and only running a 1mm shim (giving 1mm total).
Ragarding "fairly common practises...", with wich kínd of tires/track surfaces do this apply to? All surfaces, or is it better on only some? I'm running rubber tires on carpet.
cole trickle
cole,
i've tried to illustrate the recommendation i had with the use of some poor spelling. keep in mind that this is most applicable to foam tire carpet racing where your turning circles won't usually go below 5-1/2 feet in diameter. you can play with shim size until you get the throw you want. though unsightly, this simple fix has increased the durability of my car ten-fold. thanks, pw.
- harold walters
i've tried to illustrate the recommendation i had with the use of some poor spelling. keep in mind that this is most applicable to foam tire carpet racing where your turning circles won't usually go below 5-1/2 feet in diameter. you can play with shim size until you get the throw you want. though unsightly, this simple fix has increased the durability of my car ten-fold. thanks, pw.
- harold walters
Cool solution
Thanks Seaball, that cleared things up.
I'm on a very tight track, so I'll basically look for the least possible steering throw to race with. Now I have a nice starting point, great !
I'm on a very tight track, so I'll basically look for the least possible steering throw to race with. Now I have a nice starting point, great !
hey cole by what your describing have you thaught about trying a one way, because iv heard there very good with rubber tires on carpet as you want the most corner speed possible
Tech Regular
When adjusting the suspension mounts up or down, it is also important to understand that you are changing many other things. One of these is camber gain. By raising the rear mount, you are increasing the camber gain over the "stock" setting. This (in high traction situations) will usually make the car more aggressive off center, and give more traction in the corner because the tire contact patch will stay flatter on the racing surface thru the corner. Unfortunatelly with all the other things changing with this adjustment (castor, roll center, bump steer, weight transfer, etc.) it is nearly impossible to predict how your car will respond to this particular change. If you drop the front block, theoretically the oppsite will occur. You still have to deal with all the other changes occuring though. -Jeff
Originally Posted by John_S
hey cole by what your describing have you thaught about trying a one way, because iv heard there very good with rubber tires on carpet as you want the most corner speed possible
However, I want to get a feel of the MI2, before doing so. I have to have a good starting point, setup-wise, before mounting the one-way.
Unfortunately, there dont seem to be many setups on the net for rubber tires on carpet. I've found one, though, which looks very promising - as far as I can see, without have tried the car myself
Originally Posted by Jay Dub
When adjusting the suspension mounts up or down, it is also important to understand that you are changing many other things. One of these is camber gain. By raising the rear mount, you are increasing the camber gain over the "stock" setting. This (in high traction situations) will usually make the car more aggressive off center, and give more traction in the corner because the tire contact patch will stay flatter on the racing surface thru the corner. Unfortunatelly with all the other things changing with this adjustment (castor, roll center, bump steer, weight transfer, etc.) it is nearly impossible to predict how your car will respond to this particular change. If you drop the front block, theoretically the oppsite will occur. You still have to deal with all the other changes occuring though. -Jeff
One question though: What do you mean with "more aggresive off center"?
BMI Q's
Can someone provide a link to where I can read about experiences with the BMI chassis?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Hey guys, for all you guy/gal's that are running TFR shocks on there MI2. Just a quick question. I'm planning on picking up a pair when I head over to the mainland. What type of screws nuts, or what ever will I need to mount them correctly . I'm planning on purchasing Pdub's mounts very soon. So I'm going to have to go Ghetto style for a bit. So any info would be great. Oh by the way I do have the carpet towers already. thanks . Oh by the way does any one have a good recent setup for stock/19turn. Plus what a good starting point for gearing up for pinion size and spur gear. for both stock and, 19 turn. I do have the spur addapter and right now still running every thing stock. xcept for some aluminun parts.
Gearing depends on the track, and also motor - there's differences on stock motors. My GM use to have a tooth or two less on the pinion, than my P2K's.
Rule of thumb: Car should reach top end at approx. 2/3-3/4 down the longest straight. If it's a tight track, you might like to go one tooth lower on the pinion. Wide track, one tooth more.
And the motor shouldnt run too warm/hot. I like to keep my motors below 60 deg. celsius.
Rule of thumb: Car should reach top end at approx. 2/3-3/4 down the longest straight. If it's a tight track, you might like to go one tooth lower on the pinion. Wide track, one tooth more.
And the motor shouldnt run too warm/hot. I like to keep my motors below 60 deg. celsius.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
thanks cole. just a question, when would you go up or down a tooth or two on your spur gear. that the equation that most puzzles me.
If the motor gets too warm/hot, I would use a smaller pinion.
If temperature's not a problem, I go for speed. Be aware, that higher top end doesnt always mean more top-end. It's in the infield, most races are won. So acceleration out of corners usually means a lot more, than top-end. But still, it's a matter of finding the sweet spot. The thumb-of-rule is a good guidance
If you need more acceleration, use a sligthly smaller pinion. And I've seen examples, where a smaller pinion also resulted in higher speed - this can occur, if the gearing makes the car too "heavy" for the motor.
So, first, I would check temperatures. It should be possible to touch the motor, without burning your fingers.
Second, I would try to find a fellow racer, which drives almost as fast as myself. This makes it's much easier to se what the results of changing gears are.
You may find the car is a little harder to race with a lower overall gearing (smaller pinions). If so, ease up on your trigger finger
I hope I didnt made it too complicated - it shouldnt be. So feel free and ask again, if nessecary.
If temperature's not a problem, I go for speed. Be aware, that higher top end doesnt always mean more top-end. It's in the infield, most races are won. So acceleration out of corners usually means a lot more, than top-end. But still, it's a matter of finding the sweet spot. The thumb-of-rule is a good guidance
If you need more acceleration, use a sligthly smaller pinion. And I've seen examples, where a smaller pinion also resulted in higher speed - this can occur, if the gearing makes the car too "heavy" for the motor.
So, first, I would check temperatures. It should be possible to touch the motor, without burning your fingers.
Second, I would try to find a fellow racer, which drives almost as fast as myself. This makes it's much easier to se what the results of changing gears are.
You may find the car is a little harder to race with a lower overall gearing (smaller pinions). If so, ease up on your trigger finger
I hope I didnt made it too complicated - it shouldnt be. So feel free and ask again, if nessecary.