Schumacher Corner
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
ok, negative kick up. Maybe I am confused, but Anti Dive = Postive Kick up right ? we on the same page here ?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Anti dive is the opposite of kick up. Think of it like this. Anti squat has the front of the rear arms higher to keep it from squatting as much. Anti Dive has the front of the front arms lower so it won't dive as hard under braking.
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
\ = kickup
/ = antidive
car facing <<
/ = antidive
car facing <<
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Last weekend I added antidive to the car to help with a huge sweeper and the car was dialed. Before I added this the car would push on power and when I'd let off to make the turn I lost too much speed which in turn made for slower lap times compared to the other racers.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by mo
\ = kickup
/ = antidive
car facing <<
/ = antidive
car facing <<
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by STLNLST
answer your phone when DADDY calls sucka!!!
Dude ...you guys are room mates, just knock on his door GEEZEZ!!!
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: A step closer to where I need to be a step further from where I was
Posts: 1,186
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Last weekend I added antidive to the car to help with a huge sweeper and the car was dialed. Before I added this the car would push on power and when I'd let off to make the turn I lost too much speed which in turn made for slower lap times compared to the other racers.
Tech Regular
As with any adjustment on a car, it is going to work differently for different people (setup, driving style, particular track, etc.). In general the anti-dive in the front (anti-dive is a term usually reserved for this adjustment on the front of a car, when this is done on the rear it is usually refered to as pro squat) of the car is going to help keep the front end flatter thru a turn because each side of the suspension is effectively binding against the other. Also, the car will transfer less weight fore and aft under acceleration and deceleration. helping to keep the car flater. This combined with the static change in castor will most often give- like MO said " less steering in, more steering out." One thing to remember is that any adjustment taken too far will inevitably give results opposite of what you expect or desire.-Jeff
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by RKeasler
Are you running low roll centers and what about the rear anti-squat any?
I very rarely run anti squat. I only run it in very loose conditions though.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
We found that 1mm anti dive generally gives the car more steering ... carpet foam.
So who's going to Vegas? It will be nice to finally meet some of you guys
Nick is running mod foam and mod rubber... we haven't run mod rubber since the Novak was a rubber tire race this should be interesting
So who's going to Vegas? It will be nice to finally meet some of you guys
Nick is running mod foam and mod rubber... we haven't run mod rubber since the Novak was a rubber tire race this should be interesting
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by mo
Anti-dive gives more on-power steering, less initial.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by ottoman
So who's going to Vegas? It will be nice to finally meet some of you guys
Nick is running mod foam and mod rubber... we haven't run mod rubber since the Novak was a rubber tire race this should be interesting
Nick is running mod foam and mod rubber... we haven't run mod rubber since the Novak was a rubber tire race this should be interesting
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
When you put anti-dive on the front aren't you also reducing caster which should give you more turn in?
I tried the 2 degree caster for the first time on the weekend and was really impressed- I had so much low speed turn-in that the rear kept on sliding out!
It took me the whole race to learn how to cope with it (I had been used to the car understeering into turns) - my fastest lap was the last lap of the race!
In off road more caster or kick always seemed to give me more turn-in; it's confusing when it appears to be the opposite with on-road cars
I have a question: what is everyones opinion with regard to the internal transmission ratio (17T vs 20T). I don't like using big spur gears so I want to run one no bigger than 90T but unfortunately you can't mesh small enough pinions in order to get the right ratio's I need.
If I switch to the 17T pulley this will fix the problem, but will it have other effects?
In off-road I always felt than higher internal ratios (i.e 2.5:1) gave more acceleration than lower internal ratios (i.e 1.8:1). Plus running a smaller layshaft pulley and smaller spur reduces transmission weight slightly.
Any thoughts or theories?
I tried the 2 degree caster for the first time on the weekend and was really impressed- I had so much low speed turn-in that the rear kept on sliding out!
It took me the whole race to learn how to cope with it (I had been used to the car understeering into turns) - my fastest lap was the last lap of the race!
In off road more caster or kick always seemed to give me more turn-in; it's confusing when it appears to be the opposite with on-road cars
I have a question: what is everyones opinion with regard to the internal transmission ratio (17T vs 20T). I don't like using big spur gears so I want to run one no bigger than 90T but unfortunately you can't mesh small enough pinions in order to get the right ratio's I need.
If I switch to the 17T pulley this will fix the problem, but will it have other effects?
In off-road I always felt than higher internal ratios (i.e 2.5:1) gave more acceleration than lower internal ratios (i.e 1.8:1). Plus running a smaller layshaft pulley and smaller spur reduces transmission weight slightly.
Any thoughts or theories?
Tech Master
Yup, just run the 20t
We went through it all when the mission first came out, it was just better with the 20. Even with the same overall ratio, the 17 just seemed to give loads of acceleration, but sod all top end. The 20 was much better.
We went through it all when the mission first came out, it was just better with the 20. Even with the same overall ratio, the 17 just seemed to give loads of acceleration, but sod all top end. The 20 was much better.
Originally Posted by Cole Trickle
I've been recommended to mount some washers somewhere in the steering, to reduce steering travel, thus improving the durability. Seaball explained it quite detailed with words, however, I would appreciate, if someone is able to post a picture of it.
Also, I'm considering the riser plates. Is I'm correct, when I think they'll alter the roll center?
Also, I'm considering the riser plates. Is I'm correct, when I think they'll alter the roll center?
Thanks