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Old 12-31-2005, 10:59 AM   #11986
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Before you do that get hold of a mates 2mm driver it may still be able to be unscrewed with a decent driver, don't use to much forcethough i tend to use a hudy driver with a plastic handle and put a another allen driver ( strong one another associated or hudy ) and using the the leverage effect to gently loosen the stripped screw from the chassis, try this first before using more damaging methods.

You can do this with a quality t-bar driver but finding a quality one is as rare as hen teeth around these parts
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Old 12-31-2005, 11:30 AM   #11987
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the other way, remove all other screws from that area of the car.

If the stripped screw is the only one holding the bulhead in, use the hex wrench to hold the screw in place and gently rotate the bulkhead itself in the unthread direction....there is often enough movement there to loosen.
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Old 12-31-2005, 03:17 PM   #11988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
n the process of doing some maintenance on the car I have stripped the heads on 3 of the 4 rear suspension blocks screws
What
Quote:
Originally Posted by BritRacer
the other way, remove all other screws from that area of the car.

If the stripped screw is the only one holding the bulhead in, use the hex wrench to hold the screw in place and gently rotate the bulkhead itself in the unthread direction....there is often enough movement there to loosen. Today 05:59 PM
Won't work for one of the blocks in this case
I would seriously wait and try my method first before doing anything drastic been there cost me a new chassis .....
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Old 12-31-2005, 03:42 PM   #11989
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why isnt anyone of the big guys driving the tb evo IV ms i really think its great
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Old 12-31-2005, 04:53 PM   #11990
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A lot of people don't run the IV's because of torque steer, that's why alot of the top drivers in mod use belt driven cars such as the 415

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Old 12-31-2005, 05:19 PM   #11991
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I have had some luck with stripped screws by using an attachment for my drill called an ez-out. With a reversable drill, it basically drills the screw out without damaging the chassis. Most Hardware stores can get you one in the size that you need (bring a screw with you to show them the side of the head).
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Old 12-31-2005, 05:20 PM   #11992
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maybe but i am really glad that i bought the evo IV and the danish stock champion drives the same car
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:13 PM   #11993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasmus TbEvo IV
maybe but i am really glad that i bought the evo IV and the danish stock champion drives the same car
I'm glad I got the 415 which is driven by the mod World Champion
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Old 12-31-2005, 07:48 PM   #11994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlap
I'm glad I got the 415 which is driven by the mod World Champion
I'm glad i bought both!!

Seriously though, the msx is my first belt driven car; i'm really excited about getting to try it out. it needs to stop raining first!!
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Old 12-31-2005, 11:31 PM   #11995
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I have owned both. My verdict is that the Evo4 is a GREAT car for Stock racing and maybe 19 Turn. The drivetrain is really efficient but its not as good as the 415 in Modified. The problem wasn't really with torque steer I didn't think, more just its consistency over the run. With mod speed, the Evo would perform a little different from lap to lap.

They did a comparison between the both a while ago. Evo4 would cut SLIGHTLY quicker best lap times, but over the run the 415 was the faster car, also easier to drive.

I had great results with the Evo4 in stock, certainly a great car for that! I tried it in Modified and it was a handful, so I got a 415.
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Old 12-31-2005, 11:50 PM   #11996
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HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL 415ers
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Old 01-01-2006, 12:08 AM   #11997
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I own both EVO4 and TRF415MSX. EVO4 feels quicker but it's not as consistant as 415 since belt driven cars are easier to drive and more predictable. I don't have any torque steer problems with EVO4. Before I got my TRF415MSX, I only have shaft driven cars. It's better to learn to drive with shaft driven cars since you need to learn how to control the throttle smoothly. If you master shaft driven cars, you will do better when driving a car like TRF415MSX.
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:51 AM   #11998
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Thanks for all the tips to get my stripped screws out, It's done, and with no damage to the chassis

Having a close look at the standard countersunk screws, I noticed that the hex recess for the driver is very shallow - much shallower than other brands of screws I have.

Has anyone else noticed this? or have I got a bad batch of screws?

I think I might replace them before I have any more problems
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Old 01-01-2006, 04:24 AM   #11999
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The standard steel screws seem fine (I use a 2.0mm Hudy driver). I am looking at replacing some/all with titanium ones
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Old 01-01-2006, 04:45 AM   #12000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
Thanks for all the tips to get my stripped screws out, It's done, and with no damage to the chassis

Having a close look at the standard countersunk screws, I noticed that the hex recess for the driver is very shallow - much shallower than other brands of screws I have.

Has anyone else noticed this? or have I got a bad batch of screws?

I think I might replace them before I have any more problems
You might have to go over your budget now Jason!!! Buying screws and maybe even some tools to go with them!!! J/K

Good to see that you have fixed your problem mate.
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