Tamiya TRF415
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
droop
Originally Posted by MikeR
You would think that but all it takes is that initial weight shift to lose rear bite or induce steering.... but go ahead, add even more rear droop
I'm looking into getting the tamiya car. I was wondering what kit would I need to buy along with the msx conversion?
Mikey Hudson, if I were you I would wait, there is a Tamiya 415 MSX being released later this year or early next, it will include all the latest options including the rear aluminum outdrives, rear aluminum hubs, MSX conversion, white belts, and the MS suspension. This will be cheaper for you than buying a MS and the rear hubs and the MSX conversion.
But that's just my $0.02.
If you are interseted as to where I go this information go to www.rczone.net
But that's just my $0.02.
If you are interseted as to where I go this information go to www.rczone.net
that sounds better, but I wasn't sure if they were coming out with the newer kit
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by Mikey Hudson
that sounds better, but I wasn't sure if they were coming out with the newer kit
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Put your name down on rc-champ's pre-order list. They are supposed to have the car around Dec 8-10 and they are selling them VERY cheap!
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I C ...Now what I say and what I do is not the same I will not Keep adding droop ... All I really need to do is go to a CS22 rear tire and be done thanks thou
Originally Posted by bender
Put your name down on rc-champ's pre-order list. They are supposed to have the car around Dec 8-10 and they are selling them VERY cheap!
You can get jut the car either with titanium screws ($288) or with the stock steel screws ($254).
The DJ module suspension kit is only 50 bucks over there!!!
I don't know if these prices are right, I will have to check it out.
Last edited by tc3stocker; 11-13-2005 at 01:34 PM.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
You don't say what surface what setup you're using, maybe there's something else to look at in your setup. You shouldn't use different compounds of tyres to get the car to work, there must be something else.
FT 60wt 3hole blue spring A B blocks 4deg hub ms arms middle hole of the 3 3rd hole in on shocktower 5mm ride 5droop 1.5deg camber arm shim 2 3mm back 1 2mm ft zero rollcenter/A B blocks flat on chassis
Rear:60wt 3hole yellow spring middle hole of 3 ms arm blocks flat on chassis D XA blocks zero hubs middle hole on hubs shocks 2nd hole in on tower 1.5deg camber 4mm droop 4.5mm ride H arms shims 2mmft 2 3mm rear spool 19turn ..running on med grip crc carpet MSX kit
where is the preorder list from mr champ at. and does anyone know where to find a setup for mod tc w/ foams on a small tight track. any help appreciated
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I got a setup off tryhard's site a fast run down is
FT 60wt 3hole blue spring A B blocks 4deg hub ms arms middle hole of the 3 3rd hole in on shocktower 5mm ride 5droop 1.5deg camber arm shim 2 3mm back 1 2mm ft zero rollcenter/A B blocks flat on chassis
Rear:60wt 3hole yellow spring middle hole of 3 ms arm blocks flat on chassis D XA blocks zero hubs middle hole on hubs shocks 2nd hole in on tower 1.5deg camber 4mm droop 4.5mm ride H arms shims 2mmft 2 3mm rear spool 19turn ..running on med grip crc carpet MSX kit
FT 60wt 3hole blue spring A B blocks 4deg hub ms arms middle hole of the 3 3rd hole in on shocktower 5mm ride 5droop 1.5deg camber arm shim 2 3mm back 1 2mm ft zero rollcenter/A B blocks flat on chassis
Rear:60wt 3hole yellow spring middle hole of 3 ms arm blocks flat on chassis D XA blocks zero hubs middle hole on hubs shocks 2nd hole in on tower 1.5deg camber 4mm droop 4.5mm ride H arms shims 2mmft 2 3mm rear spool 19turn ..running on med grip crc carpet MSX kit
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I got a setup off tryhard's site a fast run down is
FT 60wt 3hole blue spring A B blocks 4deg hub ms arms middle hole of the 3 3rd hole in on shocktower 5mm ride 5droop 1.5deg camber arm shim 2 3mm back 1 2mm ft zero rollcenter/A B blocks flat on chassis
Rear:60wt 3hole yellow spring middle hole of 3 ms arm blocks flat on chassis D XA blocks zero hubs middle hole on hubs shocks 2nd hole in on tower 1.5deg camber 4mm droop 4.5mm ride H arms shims 2mmft 2 3mm rear spool 19turn ..running on med grip crc carpet MSX kit
FT 60wt 3hole blue spring A B blocks 4deg hub ms arms middle hole of the 3 3rd hole in on shocktower 5mm ride 5droop 1.5deg camber arm shim 2 3mm back 1 2mm ft zero rollcenter/A B blocks flat on chassis
Rear:60wt 3hole yellow spring middle hole of 3 ms arm blocks flat on chassis D XA blocks zero hubs middle hole on hubs shocks 2nd hole in on tower 1.5deg camber 4mm droop 4.5mm ride H arms shims 2mmft 2 3mm rear spool 19turn ..running on med grip crc carpet MSX kit
1) soft rear spring. Try blue on the rear as well... I only tend to run different wt springs if running a 1 way.
2) the rear arm shimming seems strange, you have that a long way forward, which means you'll be putting weight over the rear... try it 5mm (2+3) in front, 3mm behind.
3) rear ride height... deffiently set that to at least level with the front, if not waith a bit of forward rake (so 5 or 5.5mm)
HiH
Ed
Anyway that leads me to say how f... good that 2mm chassis was today. To be perfectly honest, I thought it would be better than the 3mm one, but I had some doubts as always when you try something different. Thing is, if the carbon had been of the same quality as the tamiya, I don't think it'd have worked. It might also prove different on the MSX car, but not if I get a top deck for carpet.
At first, I tried the car with the toe blocks sitting on the chassis, so with a very low roll centre. It was quick but very hard to drive, and literally stopping in the corners. I did whup everyone on laptimes, but made too many mistakes. Then I raised the roll centres to the same height as if i had a 3mm chassis (1mm under the blocks all round). The car felt better but i still had trouble with the rear end. Only when I changed tyres did i realise how shagged they were not had that problem with CS22s on carpet before, but those Sorex 24R seems to get very baggy, and these were starting to have holes in them, lol). I did put a 4th qualifying time, 6s off the pole just by changing tyres.
Also, the fan on the side seemed to do a better job than the CCF i had previously, since my C2 didn't come out red hot. I think it's down to the fan directing an existing air flow rather than creating an air flow in a perpendicular direction to the natural one. All I know is this time it didn't get as hot as before.
Then for the last round I raised the rear roll centre even more. I'd tried this trick before on the old suspension on carpet, but never on the LWT, and i have to say it did the trick. Enough to say that I had the 3rd qualifying time, with second best laptime and only 4s off pole (and i wasn't even in top heat). As compared to last time there where i was a lap down the same poleman, quite a difference. In finals despite a few crashes i finished 2nd.
What I liked moe with the chassis is that the centre of gravity is 1mm lower than with the 3mm chassis, and on carpet it does make a huge difference. With the same roll centre position the car was a lot quicker, it had more steering, yet it never ever tried to grip roll.
Now I'm really impatient to try it on the surface i've made it for : low grip indoors and outdoors. There's the BIWS coming up on sunday and I'm quite confident i'll be able to exploit the lower roll centre positions there.
At first, I tried the car with the toe blocks sitting on the chassis, so with a very low roll centre. It was quick but very hard to drive, and literally stopping in the corners. I did whup everyone on laptimes, but made too many mistakes. Then I raised the roll centres to the same height as if i had a 3mm chassis (1mm under the blocks all round). The car felt better but i still had trouble with the rear end. Only when I changed tyres did i realise how shagged they were not had that problem with CS22s on carpet before, but those Sorex 24R seems to get very baggy, and these were starting to have holes in them, lol). I did put a 4th qualifying time, 6s off the pole just by changing tyres.
Also, the fan on the side seemed to do a better job than the CCF i had previously, since my C2 didn't come out red hot. I think it's down to the fan directing an existing air flow rather than creating an air flow in a perpendicular direction to the natural one. All I know is this time it didn't get as hot as before.
Then for the last round I raised the rear roll centre even more. I'd tried this trick before on the old suspension on carpet, but never on the LWT, and i have to say it did the trick. Enough to say that I had the 3rd qualifying time, with second best laptime and only 4s off pole (and i wasn't even in top heat). As compared to last time there where i was a lap down the same poleman, quite a difference. In finals despite a few crashes i finished 2nd.
What I liked moe with the chassis is that the centre of gravity is 1mm lower than with the 3mm chassis, and on carpet it does make a huge difference. With the same roll centre position the car was a lot quicker, it had more steering, yet it never ever tried to grip roll.
Now I'm really impatient to try it on the surface i've made it for : low grip indoors and outdoors. There's the BIWS coming up on sunday and I'm quite confident i'll be able to exploit the lower roll centre positions there.
Tech Regular
hi. was wondering what are the uses for the front lower suspensin blocks 1A, 1B... 1XA, 1XB etc?
is it not the same as changing toe on the car by changing the length of the tie rods?
thanks
is it not the same as changing toe on the car by changing the length of the tie rods?
thanks