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Old 11-13-2005, 08:30 AM   #11236
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Arrow droop

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
You would think that but all it takes is that initial weight shift to lose rear bite or induce steering.... but go ahead, add even more rear droop
I C ...Now what I say and what I do is not the same I will not Keep adding droop ... All I really need to do is go to a CS22 rear tire and be done thanks thou
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:43 AM   #11237
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I'm looking into getting the tamiya car. I was wondering what kit would I need to buy along with the msx conversion?
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:21 AM   #11238
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Mikey Hudson, if I were you I would wait, there is a Tamiya 415 MSX being released later this year or early next, it will include all the latest options including the rear aluminum outdrives, rear aluminum hubs, MSX conversion, white belts, and the MS suspension. This will be cheaper for you than buying a MS and the rear hubs and the MSX conversion.

But that's just my $0.02.

If you are interseted as to where I go this information go to www.rczone.net
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:40 AM   #11239
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that sounds better, but I wasn't sure if they were coming out with the newer kit
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:48 AM   #11240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey Hudson
that sounds better, but I wasn't sure if they were coming out with the newer kit
another option is to pick up a used kit in the 200-250 range and then purchase the conversion if you are in a hurry. But you will want the MS kit to convert.
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:11 PM   #11241
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Put your name down on rc-champ's pre-order list. They are supposed to have the car around Dec 8-10 and they are selling them VERY cheap!
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:30 PM   #11242
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415MSX for Sale

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...42#post1933842
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:36 PM   #11243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I C ...Now what I say and what I do is not the same I will not Keep adding droop ... All I really need to do is go to a CS22 rear tire and be done thanks thou
You don't say what surface what setup you're using, maybe there's something else to look at in your setup. You shouldn't use different compounds of tyres to get the car to work, there must be something else.
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Old 11-13-2005, 02:07 PM   #11244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
Put your name down on rc-champ's pre-order list. They are supposed to have the car around Dec 8-10 and they are selling them VERY cheap!
You said it. On RC-Champ, you will have to pay shipping, but you can buy a TRF415MSX with titanium screws, 2 DJ Module suspension full kits, and a MSX conversion kit (don't ask me why I would buy all these things) all for only like $652!!!!! And this is the newest Tamiya kit!

You can get jut the car either with titanium screws ($288) or with the stock steel screws ($254).

The DJ module suspension kit is only 50 bucks over there!!!

I don't know if these prices are right, I will have to check it out.

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Old 11-13-2005, 02:39 PM   #11245
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Arrow

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Originally Posted by TRF415boy
You don't say what surface what setup you're using, maybe there's something else to look at in your setup. You shouldn't use different compounds of tyres to get the car to work, there must be something else.
I got a setup off tryhard's site a fast run down is
FT 60wt 3hole blue spring A B blocks 4deg hub ms arms middle hole of the 3 3rd hole in on shocktower 5mm ride 5droop 1.5deg camber arm shim 2 3mm back 1 2mm ft zero rollcenter/A B blocks flat on chassis
Rear:60wt 3hole yellow spring middle hole of 3 ms arm blocks flat on chassis D XA blocks zero hubs middle hole on hubs shocks 2nd hole in on tower 1.5deg camber 4mm droop 4.5mm ride H arms shims 2mmft 2 3mm rear spool 19turn ..running on med grip crc carpet MSX kit
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Old 11-13-2005, 02:55 PM   #11246
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where is the preorder list from mr champ at. and does anyone know where to find a setup for mod tc w/ foams on a small tight track. any help appreciated
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:16 PM   #11247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I got a setup off tryhard's site a fast run down is
FT 60wt 3hole blue spring A B blocks 4deg hub ms arms middle hole of the 3 3rd hole in on shocktower 5mm ride 5droop 1.5deg camber arm shim 2 3mm back 1 2mm ft zero rollcenter/A B blocks flat on chassis
Rear:60wt 3hole yellow spring middle hole of 3 ms arm blocks flat on chassis D XA blocks zero hubs middle hole on hubs shocks 2nd hole in on tower 1.5deg camber 4mm droop 4.5mm ride H arms shims 2mmft 2 3mm rear spool 19turn ..running on med grip crc carpet MSX kit
Right, that setup don't seem right to me. Here's my setup from today, i qualified 3rd and finished 2nd with it on quite tough competition. I think you should try it with CS22s on
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:27 PM   #11248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I got a setup off tryhard's site a fast run down is
FT 60wt 3hole blue spring A B blocks 4deg hub ms arms middle hole of the 3 3rd hole in on shocktower 5mm ride 5droop 1.5deg camber arm shim 2 3mm back 1 2mm ft zero rollcenter/A B blocks flat on chassis
Rear:60wt 3hole yellow spring middle hole of 3 ms arm blocks flat on chassis D XA blocks zero hubs middle hole on hubs shocks 2nd hole in on tower 1.5deg camber 4mm droop 4.5mm ride H arms shims 2mmft 2 3mm rear spool 19turn ..running on med grip crc carpet MSX kit
Three things I've spotted on that that don't look right
1) soft rear spring. Try blue on the rear as well... I only tend to run different wt springs if running a 1 way.
2) the rear arm shimming seems strange, you have that a long way forward, which means you'll be putting weight over the rear... try it 5mm (2+3) in front, 3mm behind.
3) rear ride height... deffiently set that to at least level with the front, if not waith a bit of forward rake (so 5 or 5.5mm)

HiH
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:33 PM   #11249
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Anyway that leads me to say how f... good that 2mm chassis was today. To be perfectly honest, I thought it would be better than the 3mm one, but I had some doubts as always when you try something different. Thing is, if the carbon had been of the same quality as the tamiya, I don't think it'd have worked. It might also prove different on the MSX car, but not if I get a top deck for carpet.

At first, I tried the car with the toe blocks sitting on the chassis, so with a very low roll centre. It was quick but very hard to drive, and literally stopping in the corners. I did whup everyone on laptimes, but made too many mistakes. Then I raised the roll centres to the same height as if i had a 3mm chassis (1mm under the blocks all round). The car felt better but i still had trouble with the rear end. Only when I changed tyres did i realise how shagged they were not had that problem with CS22s on carpet before, but those Sorex 24R seems to get very baggy, and these were starting to have holes in them, lol). I did put a 4th qualifying time, 6s off the pole just by changing tyres.

Also, the fan on the side seemed to do a better job than the CCF i had previously, since my C2 didn't come out red hot. I think it's down to the fan directing an existing air flow rather than creating an air flow in a perpendicular direction to the natural one. All I know is this time it didn't get as hot as before.

Then for the last round I raised the rear roll centre even more. I'd tried this trick before on the old suspension on carpet, but never on the LWT, and i have to say it did the trick. Enough to say that I had the 3rd qualifying time, with second best laptime and only 4s off pole (and i wasn't even in top heat). As compared to last time there where i was a lap down the same poleman, quite a difference. In finals despite a few crashes i finished 2nd.

What I liked moe with the chassis is that the centre of gravity is 1mm lower than with the 3mm chassis, and on carpet it does make a huge difference. With the same roll centre position the car was a lot quicker, it had more steering, yet it never ever tried to grip roll.

Now I'm really impatient to try it on the surface i've made it for : low grip indoors and outdoors. There's the BIWS coming up on sunday and I'm quite confident i'll be able to exploit the lower roll centre positions there.
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:42 PM   #11250
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hi. was wondering what are the uses for the front lower suspensin blocks 1A, 1B... 1XA, 1XB etc?

is it not the same as changing toe on the car by changing the length of the tie rods?


thanks
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