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Old 12-15-2004, 09:28 PM   #5596
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Sigh, annoying time out. I typed a nice long message out and what do I get.."you are not logged in" .. YAY forums.


Anyways I'll make it short and sweet. in part no. 51058 Diff Joint, the Diff Housing spacer BF11 was missing 1. I am looking for a short term solution on substitution parts, if any, from off the wall at the local hobby shop or hardware store. Or is it really necessary in the first place. I dont see overnighting the whole part bag here being any help.

3 hours of work on the car and only to step 6... somebody needs to beat Dim Sun and Chong Li into putting hardware into bags with items you'll be building at that time you need any part from that bag. Or atleast suggest you pour them all out into pick baskets.
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Old 12-15-2004, 09:29 PM   #5597
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy Caster
Glad to see you got on the site Patrick. Did you see the post from Rod a page or so back on how to get some more steering out of the car?

One thing I noticed while pulling my car apart today is that the 2 front camber links have about a 1mm difference between them, though both had 1 degree of camber. I think I'm gonna have to countersink these screw holes..
I've noticed that on mine too, the right camber lnk is longer than the left one, on the front. Then again I feel my chassis is deffiently tweaked, as there is 35g of ballast on the left hand front corner, and the tweak board still says its out... oh well.

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Old 12-15-2004, 09:49 PM   #5598
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hey guys,

my friend gave me 28r sorex tires. im concerend because we usually use 40 r compounds. does anyone of you have anyexperience using this tire compound. track temps here are a bit high coz im in the philippines. i guess were as hot as australia and thailand. any info would be much help.
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Old 12-15-2004, 10:37 PM   #5599
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28R would be a good front tire for stock carpet racing, but I wouldnt touch asphault with them unless it is really cold out.
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Old 12-15-2004, 11:41 PM   #5600
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Cooliomojo,

As Randy says the track temp needs to be pretty cool. I use them early in the morning on unprepped parking lot surfaces when the track temp is 65-80 and they work great. As soon as the track gets to 80+ degrees you better switch because they melt very quickly

Good Luck,

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Old 12-16-2004, 12:05 AM   #5601
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Hi,

Anybody here have experience driving an X-Ray? How does the 415's handling compare with the X-Ray. How does the handling differ?

I'd normally avoid these kind of questions but a friend is offering a mint 415 at a very tempting price. I don't have the money ready and would have to do some juggling to meet his "deadline". Just wondering if the effort will be worth it as I do find the T1 very much satisfactory.


Thanks...
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Old 12-16-2004, 01:00 AM   #5602
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rough- read the post by Patrick on this page, might answer your question, he was an XRay driver.
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Old 12-16-2004, 02:10 AM   #5603
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Quote:
Originally posted by rough512
Hi,

Anybody here have experience driving an X-Ray? How does the 415's handling compare with the X-Ray. How does the handling differ?

I'd normally avoid these kind of questions but a friend is offering a mint 415 at a very tempting price. I don't have the money ready and would have to do some juggling to meet his "deadline". Just wondering if the effort will be worth it as I do find the T1 very much satisfactory.


Thanks...
Night and Day, betweeen your T1 and the 415. I don't know between the Xray FK and 415. PaulC's deal is a steal!
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Old 12-16-2004, 02:35 AM   #5604
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That makes three in favor of the 415 then. I think I'm biting.

How about durability? My T1 is almost indestructible with the Pillow balls. Based on my experience with the 414 and 04, I believe Tamiya kits are very tough too. I just don't know with the 415 (and E4).
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Old 12-16-2004, 02:51 AM   #5605
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if you get regular 415, then it'll be durable as 414/04, since suspension arm/hub/knuckles are same. If you get 415MS, or 415 w/ LW suspension, your milage may vary, especially if you race indoors on carpet with unforgiving barriers.
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Old 12-16-2004, 02:55 AM   #5606
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Quote:
Originally posted by razzo
if you get regular 415, then it'll be durable as 414/04, since suspension arm/hub/knuckles are same. If you get 415MS, or 415 w/ LW suspension, your milage may vary, especially if you race indoors on carpet with unforgiving barriers.

Thank you for your input... I think the MS haven't reached our shores yet. Expect me to start posting here more often from now on. . Only thing left now is to verify the condition of the kit. The seller is a good driver but we are racing on asphalt with raised curbs. The unprotected underside does get in contact with the (rather ragged) curb edge.
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Old 12-16-2004, 04:32 AM   #5607
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Rough : at that price, i wouldn't think twice in getting it. good thing i already have one.
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Old 12-16-2004, 05:02 AM   #5608
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Yeah... I think I'm giving in... I'll still race my T1 on saturday's big race though. It might be on the trading block by next week.
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Old 12-16-2004, 07:40 AM   #5609
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Jack Smash / Randy: You mention JACO tires org/double pinks and double pink rears. (stock or modified?)

How does this compare to name tires: i.e: cyan, purple, magenta, plaids.

I'm running Parma foam, (they use GRP) and using Plaid / Purples for stock. I know others who mentioned the tire combo you use. I guess I'm asking if:

double pink = magenta
Org / dbl pink = Plaid

I wish the electric guys would just use shore ratings. It would make things easier. Still missing my MRX-4

Patrick: your right about the durability of the 415, especially in stock form. Chris and I recently crashed tested our cars on a very technical layout which was impossible to find the right line. I had 3x head ons into a 2x4 at full speed that would have taken me out of the race if it were another type of car. Eventually, it was a sheet rock screw sticking out of a board that ripped the drivers side rear off the car. Gotta love some guys idea of a challenging layout.

I'm going back to the dual one-way set-up vs. the spool.
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Old 12-16-2004, 07:43 AM   #5610
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Carl the double pink/orange is more closer to TRC Cyan than anything.
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