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Old 07-03-2009, 03:16 PM   #20596
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Yes a wider hex is an option but even that may not create enough space.

The HPI/HB knuckles will work but then so will the TB-03/TRF416 knuckles
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Old 07-04-2009, 03:09 PM   #20597
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If anyone is looking for a used 415 with a few parts and special made tweak board and lipo tray I'll have mine up for sale in about a week or two.
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Old 07-04-2009, 07:43 PM   #20598
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If anyone is looking for a used 415 with a few parts and special made tweak board and lipo tray I'll have mine up for sale in about a week or two.
I want that special tweak board son. You're Tamiya career was short lived, it should have been mine in the first place
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:49 AM   #20599
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I want that special tweak board son. You're Tamiya career was short lived, it should have been mine in the first place
I pulled the race card and received it first
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Old 07-05-2009, 07:31 PM   #20600
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Actually you've got it backwards. A lower FD means you get more top-speed. A higher final drive gets you more torque...

Longer gears = numerically lower
Shorter gears = numerically higher
Thanks alot
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:18 PM   #20601
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Default 415 MS

Can someone confirm what parts are needed to run 28mm foams or even VTA tires to clear the knuckles?
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:03 PM   #20602
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Can someone confirm what parts are needed to run 28mm foams or even VTA tires to clear the knuckles?
If you have 5mm hexes, you will need about 2mm worth of wheel shims to clear VTA tires. But that does not leave much room for the wheel nut to secure onto the axle. Best bet I think is to switch over to 416 caster blocks and knuckles. With a 5mm hex and 0.5mm wheel shim, I have good clearance on my 415 MRE. You can get the TA05 Short Arm set from Hk for about $63. Something like that. Awesome deal. Full set of suspension arms, hubs, blocks, knuckles, axles, bearings, hexes, and hardware. That's what I did for my 415MRE setup for VTA. Or, switch over to HPI knuckles and axles. I think that post is pages (years) back.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:19 PM   #20603
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Thanks,do you know the short arm kit number?
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:27 PM   #20604
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I did a quick search, here is one place that sells it for about $68. Part/kit number 54083.

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=16914
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:35 PM   #20605
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Thanks, Jimmy Mac,This might get spendy with 2 cars to convert!
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:18 PM   #20606
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You could just buy the caster blocks, spindles, bearings, axles, and kingpin hardware to save money. But I don't have part numbers for each of those items. It might be cheaper like that... maybe.
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:54 AM   #20607
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You could just buy the caster blocks, spindles, bearings, axles, and kingpin hardware to save money. But I don't have part numbers for each of those items. It might be cheaper like that... maybe.
Don't these parts require shorter driveshafts due to the wider axle bearings and longer axles?
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Old 07-06-2009, 09:34 AM   #20608
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If you can score some 26mm foams like these for example:

http://www.rc-direct.co.uk/enneti-to...re-p-3337.html

you will make your life (and pocket!) a lot easier.
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Old 07-06-2009, 09:40 AM   #20609
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No, the driveshaft length is determined by long arm vs short arm and/or wide or narrow suspension block. I'm running long arms on my MRE and use 46mm bones where as the 416 WE uses short arms and 44mm bones.
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:38 AM   #20610
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Quote:
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No, the driveshaft length is determined by long arm vs short arm and/or wide or narrow suspension block. I'm running long arms on my MRE and use 46mm bones where as the 416 WE uses short arms and 44mm bones.
Not really cause wider suspension blocks are used in conjunction with short arms to maintain the same overall width...

If you compare two cars that both came with long-arms and different hubs (MSXX vs original 416), the 416 uses 2mm shorter driveshafts. I was always told this is because of the longer axles...
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