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51840Yen=US$462,44

Still too much money for my taste

It's not that high. It will be about $350 in Japan.

42000 yen is what most of the shops will be selling them for
-Dave

That seems little steep!

hopefully you can get the shock towers seperately? Can't imagine going to a 2.5mm chassis verses 3mm for carpet racing, but new towers might be good tuning option.

Also, anyone here actully running LW kit on carpet with rubber tires? Trying to decide if to stay with kit suspension, or make the switch. Thanks.

From what they told me when I was at the Tokyo hobby show... there will be replacements....soooooooooooooo. that means you should be able to upgrade to the MS parts.... also there was a minor change to the rear bulkheads that I forgot to ask about..??
-Dave

Just modded a set of rear wishbones to accept the old style alloy rear hubs and larger bearings. Did one meeting with the new arm setup and already the rear hub bearings were junk. Rick

Razzo,

I ran last night on carpet with rubber and the new suspension kit and it worked wonderfully. Very fast in transition which is what you want on carpet. I'll post my setup when I get home from work today...

would be interesting if you feel any difference on the track vs the new rear hubs

Are you guys having problems with bearings that came with the kit? or aftermarket bearings? I mentioned earlier on this thread, but bearings that came with 415 are the biggest POS bearings I've seen in a RC kit. Are the 5x9 bearings in new LW kits just as crap as well?

Never had issues with wheel bearings in 414x,414M and TB Evo I. And they are same 5x11 sized bearings, but the old Tamiya rubber shielded ones. I've alrady swapped all the bearings out with 5x11 ones from my 414M kit, Boca ceramics for rest. Hopefully they'll last longer then kit bearings.

Razzo I ran the LW set on the 415 before making mods to accomodate foam.

To tell you the truth I liked it better then the E4 I just built for carpet 19T. I have not put a fair set-up on the E4 yet to say whih car is truly better.

As for setup here is where the car was

Front:
50wt 3hole
Tamiya Grey
Arm 3hole front, middle hole.
1mm droop
Shock Top outer hole
3mm under inner link.
Hinge blocks C/A
-1 camber
Blue Sway

Rear:
40wt 3hole
Tamiya White
Arm 3hole rear, middle hole.
2mm droop
Shock Top outer hole
1mm under inner link.
Hinge blocks A/B
-1.5 camber
Blue Sway

Tire ING25 Sorex B insert

For those having issues with the bearings have you cleaned them out of the factory grease. It has seemed that those who are cleaning and re-oiling are having the issues with the bearing. Not the best for efficiency but the factory grease seems to help the shock loads.

Diffuser, thanks! I'll be trying both kit suspension and LW this weekend hopefully.

Far as cleaning the gease out of the bearings, if the bearing are of high quality, it shouldn't make much difference. Bearing with no grease, if it's built to tight tolerances, should spin for a while, quietly with no wobble (Boca ceramic 10x15 spins litterally forever). I've got 4 kit 5x11 that are completely seized, out of the box, and two 10x15 that barely moves. Crappy bearings usually come with TON of grease in it, like kit bearings. However, when you have to clean them for the first time, or grease wears out (assuming you didn't clean and re-lube at build) you're going to be stuck with wrecked bearings.

I've been trying to get other people in my area to run this car as well, but it's kinda hard to tell them, yea, spend $350+ on this kit, and sorry, but you'll probrably have to spend another $50+ to get decent bearings for it. Tamiya kits aren't getting any cheaper, but saving money on bearings seems to be a bad idea.

On my side I have had no issues with the kit bearings and that is not factory driver BS. I prefer the blue shields on my cars and generally change them out on build if I have them or when I get them I put them in. On the 415 I have not changed them out yet and they are degreased and re-oiled. The only bearings I have not cleaned and relubed is the 950's out on the LW after hearing the few problems that popped up here.
As far as optional bearings I will be trying the Speedmind ceramics shortly in the car.

Dave you commented on a rear bulkhead change I would assume this is to better accomodate the LW arms. It should negate having to cut the 45d bevel on the rear arms you currently have to do now.

razzo, i've only had bearing problems when 1) i clean out the grease before i use them and 2) bad crash. if you had bearings bad out of the box you should be able to get replacements from your retailer, no?