R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-04-2004, 11:15 PM   #4141
Tech Master
 
maxepower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Aliso Viejo, Calif.
Posts: 1,633
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Because we're a friendly bunch really...

Have you tried 60wt Schumacher oil with the 3 hole pistons per chance? if so what did you think? I swapped to this recently after noticing most of the TRF drivers using this shock setup (I had previously been using Schumacher 50wt oil with 2 hole piston, and the new shock setup seems fairly similar)
[EDIT - Might help if I read whole post beforehand, although I blame the Alc-hic-hol.... )

Any chance of describing what the change in piston (ie from 2 hole to 3 hole) does? I've been trying to work through it myself, and have got no-where.

Good luck at the worlds by the way. Not far off now

Regards
Ed
Speaking of set up tips how about this.
First, I'm a little confused on the setting of droop. Not on what affects it has on the car but more like how to check droop and measure droop i.e. I believe that most racers I see checking droop are using a tool or tools that measure the distance between the chassis and the bottom of the A-arm.
But I also have seen racers adjust the droop screws and then measure the length of the shock! Next, some set-up sheets (TAMIYA) call out a distance between the chassis and the center of the wheel hub. Last, droop is the amount of vertical travel the chassis moves until the wheel come off the ground. Is this what you measure when you say you have 2mm droop in the car (TAO4 settings). If so how do you measure this? One more issue with droop! If someone measures droop by the distance bewteen the chassis and the A-arm and they increase this distance, aren't they actually decreasing the amout of droop i.e reducing the amount of up travel?
Some clarity would be appreciated!
Thanks!
__________________
Tamiya Track Local. 10,000 Watts of power! ($5 donations for gas appreciated)
Proud Father of GT-1 Past Champion!"Hey, I got to go to Japan too!
FF03,TA-05V2 ,EVO-6,TA-07,TRF419W,EXOTEK-6
"Tamiya Racer to Infinity and Beyond!"
maxepower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 12:39 AM   #4142
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Malmo, Sweden
Posts: 11
Default

@TryHard,
Thanks for helping me out on that one!
First of all, I'm not a setup-guru in any way, so what I write may not be 100% correct, but it's my view of it. With a 2-hole piston the damper gets more resistane first of all when you try to move the piston fast, but also when you first "start" to make changes to it's position in the damper (like when you turn in after a straight, or in a chikane) which makes the car more direct and responsive. This resistance is called pack by some and it can also make the car jump around on a bumpy track, or heat up the tires too much, if you overdo it.
For a more in depth explanation I can really recommend the Car Handling Guide at Team-Orions website, it has been very useful for me!
Good luck with your testing!
Jonas Andersson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 02:06 AM   #4143
Tech Regular
 
Holmenkollen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 444
Default

I think the Tamiya drivers uses Tamiya 600 oil, wich is more like other brands 40 wt than 60 wt. So if you use AE 60 wt you get a little harder setup than you may want.
Holmenkollen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 03:35 AM   #4144
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 5,310
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by maxepower
Speaking of set up tips how about this.
First, I'm a little confused on the setting of droop. Not on what affects it has on the car but more like how to check droop and measure droop i.e. I believe that most racers I see checking droop are using a tool or tools that measure the distance between the chassis and the bottom of the A-arm.
But I also have seen racers adjust the droop screws and then measure the length of the shock! Next, some set-up sheets (TAMIYA) call out a distance between the chassis and the center of the wheel hub. Last, droop is the amount of vertical travel the chassis moves until the wheel come off the ground. Is this what you measure when you say you have 2mm droop in the car (TAO4 settings). If so how do you measure this? One more issue with droop! If someone measures droop by the distance bewteen the chassis and the A-arm and they increase this distance, aren't they actually decreasing the amout of droop i.e reducing the amount of up travel?
Some clarity would be appreciated!
Thanks!
I too have seen some inconsistent methods. If you move you lower arms up or down, then the droop seting will change with the same reading on a droop gauge!...

Here's my way of getting consistent compareable results. You will need...
*tools for adjusting droop
*round object to balance chassis on (a small hex driver is great) approx 12mm diameter works well.
*tweak gauge (I use a laser type)

1) Put on the wheels that you are going to use. You will also need shocks on your car too... spring rate is irrelivant.... just have some on.

2) Wind preload down alot! (compress spring) This pushes the wheels down as far as your droop setting allows.

3) Using a ride height gauge, adjust your droop screws until you get the max downtravel setting you desire. Measure from the front or rear to get that ends setting. Try to keep droop screws even (this will be corrected later).

4) Once max down travel is set (droop), get a round object such as a screw driver (approx 12mm in diameter is great) and place it under the front bumber IN THE CENTER of the car. This will lift the front wheels off the ground and allow the chassis to rotate around the centerline.

5) Using a comon reference point (like motor armature) measure the chassis height on both sides. Adjust rear droop screws a little at a time in opposite directions until you get the same reading on both sides.

6) RECHECK your rear droop by taking round object away and checking ground clearance. If it is too low/high, adjust accordingly and repeat steps 4 and 5.

7) Place car on tweak gauge (as per normal instructions). You should see any difference between front/rear settings on your gauge. Using front droop screws, adjust in opposite directions until it reads level.

8) Once again recheck with chassis on surface only to ensure droop setting is right.

9) Adjust rideheight to what you need and your ready to rock!

This method will give you balanced droop and will allow for any chassis tweak. Best of all, it will give you the same settings no matter what rollcenter settings you use or tyre diameter.

If you don't have a tweak gauge, you can simulate it by lifting the front end off the ground with a fine tool (like a kinfe) in the center of the chassis. Adjust by looking at which wheel leaves the ground 1st. This method is a little more crude as it dosen't allow for play in the shocks.
__________________
Blade: Andro Treiber H 79g AN
FH: Donic Bluefire M3 Max Blk
BH: Donic Bluefire M2 Max Red
Powered by Falco
Dragonfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 07:45 PM   #4145
Tech Master
 
forty6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,922
Default Belt tensioner

Does the belt tensioner really help in preventing the belt from flipping?
forty6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 08:55 PM   #4146
TJ
Tech Champion
 
TJ's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,449
Default

Has any body heard what cars are legal for TCS worlds this year. Will the 415 be able to race?
__________________
Castle Hill Raceway: www.castlehillraceway.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/121817254587521/

"Anything I say can or will be used against me at a later date":
TJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 09:07 PM   #4147
Tech Champion
 
JDM_DOHC_SiR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Chula Vista, CA
Posts: 9,070
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default Re: Belt tensioner

Quote:
Originally posted by forty6
Does the belt tensioner really help in preventing the belt from flipping?
I have found it to be quite good item to use
-Dave
__________________
Ȼ4.5 Centro+α ◊ TRF 501ӽ ◊ TRF 502ӽs ◊ TRF 503 ◊ TRF 511 ◊ TRF 201ӽr ◊ TRF 211ӽ
B5m ◊ T5m ◊SC5m ◊ B64deez nutz
Speedway PAL ◊ SDRC ◊ Shop UFO ◊ SMC
JDM_DOHC_SiR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 01:10 AM   #4148
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 5,310
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Whats the part numbers then?
__________________
Blade: Andro Treiber H 79g AN
FH: Donic Bluefire M3 Max Blk
BH: Donic Bluefire M2 Max Red
Powered by Falco
Dragonfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 02:18 AM   #4149
Tech Regular
 
Ballsie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Hamilton, United Kingdom
Posts: 354
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Dragonfire
Whats the part numbers then?
#49343 - TRF415 Belt Stabilizer
Ballsie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 08:02 AM   #4150
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Cambridge, UK
Posts: 230
Default

Dave (or anyone else), do you have any idea when the 415MS and Volac MS are due for release in Japan?
g4t2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 08:08 AM   #4151
Tech Master
 
forty6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,922
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by g4t2
Dave (or anyone else), do you have any idea when the 415MS and Volac MS are due for release in Japan?
Nov.25 for the 415MS.
forty6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 09:37 PM   #4152
Tech Champion
 
JDM_DOHC_SiR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Chula Vista, CA
Posts: 9,070
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by forty6
Nov.25 for the 415MS.

Street price should be about 20-23% cheaper than the retail price that Tamiya puts out
__________________
Ȼ4.5 Centro+α ◊ TRF 501ӽ ◊ TRF 502ӽs ◊ TRF 503 ◊ TRF 511 ◊ TRF 201ӽr ◊ TRF 211ӽ
B5m ◊ T5m ◊SC5m ◊ B64deez nutz
Speedway PAL ◊ SDRC ◊ Shop UFO ◊ SMC
JDM_DOHC_SiR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 09:44 PM   #4153
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside of Crook County Illinois
Posts: 1,949
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to A-Ko
Default

what is the retail price?
__________________
Jeffrey
teamgravityrc.com - motivrc.com
USVTA National Points Member #101
A-Ko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 09:45 PM   #4154
Tech Master
 
FW-05RR's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,384
Default

probably in the high 3's
FW-05RR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 11:37 PM   #4155
Tech Fanatic
 
utieh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: paris
Posts: 941
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by FW05R
probably in the high 3's
64800Yen-20%=51840Yen
utieh is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TAMIYA TRF415 Xray XB8 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 32 04-04-2008 08:50 PM
Tamiya TRF415 Crashmaster R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 12-13-2006 04:48 PM
Tamiya TRF415 MS NIB koabich R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 8 11-11-2005 07:28 AM
F/S Tamiya TRF415 rraden R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 20 06-10-2005 09:02 PM
Tamiya Evo IV or TRF415 TheDevil Electric On-Road 23 10-15-2004 07:27 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:51 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net