i would like to see a pict of that i would love to get one .
V12 can you use those blades with the stock bones do they go over the stock pins?and is there any binding .

I was told the Corally blades are working on the stock bones/pins. Jürgen has made now some Teflon blades which should be good also but from what I know they are brandnew and untested yet. But I just have the picture I posted before not any diffs yet. So I can´t say anything from experience. But Jürgens products are topnotch usually. I know some guys had the frontdiffs since some time but there was some development on the diffs so the blades are used now.
I have planned going to a big indoor race tomorrow maybe I meet one of the guys using them.

i have the front diff fron jurgen actually 2 of them and they are nice but there is some play in them i will try the corally blades .

Where do I go to order stuff from Jurgen? Does he have a website with his stuff on it?

ygpm

Wow!!!!!!!! that looks awesome!!!!!!!!

-Dave

I am also interested in find these parts....

I am currently building my 415, any advice guys????

any body know???

question:

staring to build my kit, and I have never "trimmed" carbon fiber in order to have the cells "fit" better....

anybody willing to shoot me some pics on how their chassis looks like for me????

I am very hesitant on doing this (knowing you have to), but I would really like to see how yawl' did yours'.....

any pics would be appreciated!

Can someone explain to me the concept behind tamiya's suspension blocks. Looking at the manual...I am not clear, like what block + what block get what?

So If I want 1.5 toe in in back....is it the d block inside and the a block in the back?

Sorry, first Tamiya car and don't get it...

Thanks...

Hi,

Do you really have to do the trimming?
When you hold down your cells with tape it isn't

I have trimmed my chassis this way.

I took a old cell (same size as your going to use), and glued some sandpaper around it.
Then I placed it onto the spot I wanted to trim, and start rolling it.
This way you get a good result, and the job is done easely.

Thomas

source: http://www.teamjoybox.com

So far I see: New 2.5mm chassis, new front and rear shock towers, white belts, lightweight suspension, heatsink rear bulkhead half and blue shocks...anyone see anything else?

quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
My bet is on hara, not because of hpi, just because he's hara...

Other than:
ZS-501 DIFF HALVES you will get two sets one for the front and one for the rear. you will use the FRONT parts, these will have the equal spacing for the outer bearings.
ZS-506 DIFF RINGS,
ZS-507 THRUST BALLS AND WASHERS
ZC-507T if you want carbide balls
ZS-508 DIFF SCREW AND LOCK NUT.
cost.. less then $20.00 u.s. (little more with carbide balls)

...what parts are neccessary to complete the front diff. Does the stock tamiya pulley work, or do I need a different one? What about bearings, shims, etc?


well, actually you use the REAR outdrives.. they are the ones that are centered. a few thin 10 mm shims will take up the side slack, as there isnt much.

you will need the Tamiya pulley, and you can use the 414/ta04/415 dif rings.. the Yoke uses the double flats, just like it.use the same 3mm balls, like the std Tamiya diffs. there ya go! insta-diff!

dont forget you will need longer CVD bones.. the 46mm from the Evo IV/LW suspension fit perfectly!



So this is the only way to make a front diff as of now? That sucks

Hi,

My bet is on Surikarn.
The TRF is superb
The drivetrain is extremely free and the sweetspot of the car is very large.

Reinhard is also very good, but he is young, and maybe can't stand the pressure yet.
His time will come

Thomas.