Tamiya TRF415
#3331
Try Hard, I dont suppose you could post a setup for the 415 at don valley cound you? Cus im racing the junior national there in october and will have my 415 by then.
Cheers Phil C
Cheers Phil C
#3332
Originally posted by TryHard
I have tried it on a tight indoor track, but with rubber tyres. I found that AE blue springs, and Tam whites on the rear, with medium sway bar on the front worked well. Cambers were 1.5 all round, with 5mm front and 5.5mm rear ride heights, droop at 3mm front and 5mm rear (using Yokomo gauge). Had B/D blocks on the rear (2deg toe total), and D/D on the front (0deg toe total).
All the camber links etc were as per the suspension instructions, except I'm running 0.7mm spacers under the front suspension block at the front, giving a bit of anti dive.
I was using Sorex 24R's, with med JB foam inserts, and Xray wheels (borrowed set from a fellow racer). However there was a lot of grip, as we had 1:12th cars running at the same time. In fact it was too much for my PitD20 narrow wets (what I usually run on the carpet), they were squealling all over the place, and whilst having massive grip to start, had overheated within about 3laps, and just had nothing left.
Anyway hope it helps.
Ed
I have tried it on a tight indoor track, but with rubber tyres. I found that AE blue springs, and Tam whites on the rear, with medium sway bar on the front worked well. Cambers were 1.5 all round, with 5mm front and 5.5mm rear ride heights, droop at 3mm front and 5mm rear (using Yokomo gauge). Had B/D blocks on the rear (2deg toe total), and D/D on the front (0deg toe total).
All the camber links etc were as per the suspension instructions, except I'm running 0.7mm spacers under the front suspension block at the front, giving a bit of anti dive.
I was using Sorex 24R's, with med JB foam inserts, and Xray wheels (borrowed set from a fellow racer). However there was a lot of grip, as we had 1:12th cars running at the same time. In fact it was too much for my PitD20 narrow wets (what I usually run on the carpet), they were squealling all over the place, and whilst having massive grip to start, had overheated within about 3laps, and just had nothing left.
Anyway hope it helps.
Ed
#3333
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
cheers for that s2, however......
This week at DV I tried out my spool, so the setup was quite a bit different. Also bear in mind I'm using the lightweight 415 arm set, so could be different for std arms.
What I found was quite good was Med (yellow) springs all round, Red (soft) roll bars F&R, and the front upper shock mount in one hole (hole #2). One thing to bare in mind though is that I don't (yet) have any tuned springs to play with (bloody hobby co.), so instead of fiddling with the roll bars i would probably change the springs first. With the one ways, I would run harder front than rear, as I've found the spool tends to need a little more front end. Actually empahised by tonight at dronfield (indoor polished floor), where I actually took the front roll bar off, and it was even faster....
Everything else is as per the above setup, except tyres, which were (unsuprisingly) HPI 1540's, with JB blue foam inserts.
However DV is a very odd surface, it's usually an indoor running track, so can have very little grip to begin with, and suddenly rubber in lots, or have grip from the begining. Sometimes it doesn't even rubber in, which is really strange.
Be wary of the section that covers the sand trap, it's always slippy, and a nightmare when only part of it is on the track.... plus its always useully at the end of a straight.... 2
This week at DV I tried out my spool, so the setup was quite a bit different. Also bear in mind I'm using the lightweight 415 arm set, so could be different for std arms.
What I found was quite good was Med (yellow) springs all round, Red (soft) roll bars F&R, and the front upper shock mount in one hole (hole #2). One thing to bare in mind though is that I don't (yet) have any tuned springs to play with (bloody hobby co.), so instead of fiddling with the roll bars i would probably change the springs first. With the one ways, I would run harder front than rear, as I've found the spool tends to need a little more front end. Actually empahised by tonight at dronfield (indoor polished floor), where I actually took the front roll bar off, and it was even faster....
Everything else is as per the above setup, except tyres, which were (unsuprisingly) HPI 1540's, with JB blue foam inserts.
However DV is a very odd surface, it's usually an indoor running track, so can have very little grip to begin with, and suddenly rubber in lots, or have grip from the begining. Sometimes it doesn't even rubber in, which is really strange.
Be wary of the section that covers the sand trap, it's always slippy, and a nightmare when only part of it is on the track.... plus its always useully at the end of a straight.... 2
#3334
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
Help! I think I'm screwed!!!
I wanted to adjust the tension on the front belt when I started to remove the screws from underneath the front bulkhead. Got one off then I ended up stripping the other 3.
Any good ideas on how I should go about this before I break something?
Any good ideas on how I should go about this before I break something?
#3335
Registered User
Do you have Hudy tools? I can always take out stripped screws(caused by other tools) out using Hudy.
#3337
Registered User
Tamiya tools are kindna soft alum.
#3338
Registered User
BTW, is 415 have front diff yet? I think I might get this car.
#3340
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Re: Help! I think I'm screwed!!!
Originally posted by Runin Ronin
I wanted to adjust the tension on the front belt when I started to remove the screws from underneath the front bulkhead. Got one off then I ended up stripping the other 3.
Any good ideas on how I should go about this before I break something?
I wanted to adjust the tension on the front belt when I started to remove the screws from underneath the front bulkhead. Got one off then I ended up stripping the other 3.
Any good ideas on how I should go about this before I break something?
#3341
Tech Apprentice
Re: Help! I think I'm screwed!!!
Originally posted by Runin Ronin
I wanted to adjust the tension on the front belt when I started to remove the screws from underneath the front bulkhead. Got one off then I ended up stripping the other 3.
Any good ideas on how I should go about this before I break something?
I wanted to adjust the tension on the front belt when I started to remove the screws from underneath the front bulkhead. Got one off then I ended up stripping the other 3.
Any good ideas on how I should go about this before I break something?
Good Luck
Yann.
#3342
Tech Apprentice
Excuse Me, TryHard.
I had not see you reply, when i post mine.
Yann.
I had not see you reply, when i post mine.
Yann.
#3344
Originally posted by TryHard
However DV is a very odd surface, it's usually an indoor running track, so can have very little grip to begin with, and suddenly rubber in lots, or have grip from the begining. Sometimes it doesn't even rubber in, which is really strange.
Be wary of the section that covers the sand trap, it's always slippy, and a nightmare when only part of it is on the track.... plus its always useully at the end of a straight.... 2
However DV is a very odd surface, it's usually an indoor running track, so can have very little grip to begin with, and suddenly rubber in lots, or have grip from the begining. Sometimes it doesn't even rubber in, which is really strange.
Be wary of the section that covers the sand trap, it's always slippy, and a nightmare when only part of it is on the track.... plus its always useully at the end of a straight.... 2
Ill probabily be running a spool so ill give your setup a go.
Cheers Phil.
#3345
Tech Master
as to making a diff/spool youl need
yokomo outdrive set for mr4tc and use the front set.
diff pulley for 415 and a bering that goes inside the diff.
that is all you need for a spool.
for a diff the same parts above but also 8 3mm balls, yokomo pressure plates,m2 locknut ,2*25 bolt?,thrust washer and nut holder.
then u should be sorted!
yokomo outdrive set for mr4tc and use the front set.
diff pulley for 415 and a bering that goes inside the diff.
that is all you need for a spool.
for a diff the same parts above but also 8 3mm balls, yokomo pressure plates,m2 locknut ,2*25 bolt?,thrust washer and nut holder.
then u should be sorted!