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Old 10-11-2004, 05:24 PM   #4231
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Ok cool, i think i have it now. Here is another one for you. This weekend my car had a ton of turn in and a little push going out. What is the first thing you would adjust knowing the tires are ok. It may sound like to general of a question but i am still trying to figure out a good order of steps to follow. I dont want to lose a decent set up looking for somethng better. By the way the shocks are all the way out in front and one hole in on the back, that is about as far as i got.
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Old 10-11-2004, 05:31 PM   #4232
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TC a little less droop in the front would be a minor change. Maybe stand the rear up one for more on power. Maybe lay the front down a hole to soften turn-in. All of these would be slight adjustments
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Old 10-11-2004, 05:34 PM   #4233
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@hugo:
there are different ways to messure the droop. on a medium traction asphalt track i drive almost the same droop front and rear. prettx less. i can lift the car 1 or 1,5mm then the tyres loose the ground contact.got me?

setup:
front
blocks a/a
caster 2degr
camber 1 or 1,5
no toein/toeout
dampers: 40/2 hole with tamiya yellow or asso silver
wheelbase1,7mm front of susp.arm, 6mm behind
no anti squat, rollcenter
damp.pos.:damper stay outside, arms outside of the 2 holes

rear:
blocks x/b or c (with 1degr. tamiyaalu hub c.)
camber1 or 1,5
dampers 40/2 holes, same springs
wheelbase5 front, 2,3 behind
no anti s, or rollc.
damp.pos.:damper stay outside (hole #5), arms insideof the 2 holes

no anti roll bars. i use the mazda.
hope this works on your track...
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Old 10-11-2004, 05:39 PM   #4234
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Thanks, I had actually laid the rears down one! Show how lost i am. I am hoping just to get a little more on throttle with out losing to much off throttle. I have got to get me one of those XXX touring car guides. Oh by the way not that it make a difference here but i am running the lightweight suspension. Another racer mentioned that the kit suspension works better at So Cal. I also noticed a few posts ago that it also works better on carpet. I have heard a couple people say So Cal is not a whole lot diffferent than carpet. Why does the stock setup work better in high bite?
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Old 10-11-2004, 05:47 PM   #4235
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Not sure still testing on that side as I just went back to carpet 2 weeks ago. I plan on returning the 415 to the original suspension to see what changes there is.

As a side note the E4 does not have the feel or snap the 415 did on rubber but I have not had much time with it to find a sweet spot for setup
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Old 10-11-2004, 06:21 PM   #4236
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Quote:
Originally posted by tcmerf
Thanks, I had actually laid the rears down one! Show how lost i am. I am hoping just to get a little more on throttle with out losing to much off throttle. I have got to get me one of those XXX touring car guides. Oh by the way not that it make a difference here but i am running the lightweight suspension. Another racer mentioned that the kit suspension works better at So Cal. I also noticed a few posts ago that it also works better on carpet. I have heard a couple people say So Cal is not a whole lot diffferent than carpet. Why does the stock setup work better in high bite?
Hey TC, theres a crib shit on my site, basically I've taken all the info out of the guide, and put it onto a single page. Looks a little daunting at first, but it is (relatively) easy to understand. It's what I use during club racing as there is generally only a short amount of time to make adjustments.

Look for "setupcrib sheet" under the excel sheets section.

@ Leini, is that setup you posted for the indoor event you mentioned earlier (cs masters was it?)? Looks like your running the car v.narrow (a/a on the front and X/CorB on the rear), or were you using wider foams?

Regards
Ed
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Old 10-11-2004, 07:06 PM   #4237
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Try Hard,

Thanks for the help. I have your set up sheet, just a little hard to tell where to start. I am starting to get a hold on it.
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Old 10-11-2004, 10:14 PM   #4238
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Here is the 415 front diff I made using EVO3 parts:
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Old 10-11-2004, 10:15 PM   #4239
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...another pic of the front diff installed:
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Old 10-11-2004, 10:30 PM   #4240
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how you do that? machine off one of the outdrives? i thought about that. this way, it eliminates all the funky longer cvds... i wasnt sure how those outdrives would cut tho. the white ones might be easier, 'cause of the hardness.
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Old 10-11-2004, 10:31 PM   #4241
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Looks good. What parts did you use? Any machining involved?
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:10 PM   #4242
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I basically just turned my dremel into a lathe...I fixed the two identical halves into the dremel and shaved away room for the bearings to slide inward. Then, I had to modify the t-nut, spring, and one diff half slightly to accomodate the short diff screw. I also cut the diff halves to make them shorter, and used a file to shave slots for the outer rings.

I put a couple of runs on it, and it worked well.
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:17 PM   #4243
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here is the other side, showing the half with the deeper slots and t-nut:
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Old 10-12-2004, 12:58 AM   #4244
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Quote:
I basically just turned my dremel into a lathe...I fixed the two identical halves into the dremel and shaved away room for the bearings to slide inward. Then, I had to modify the t-nut, spring, and one diff half slightly to accomodate the short diff screw. I also cut the diff halves to make them shorter, and used a file to shave slots for the outer rings.
How did you do it? can you post a pic of your home made lathe?
what kind of clip you use for holding objects. I'm trying to fabricate tires for my micro cars.


thanks.
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Old 10-12-2004, 05:37 AM   #4245
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Rear belt question?

Can I use the 415 rear belt on the 414m2?

Thanks
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