You have to try by yourself and feel the difference. I suggest to try 2mm plate and no plate at all, so you can feel the difference right away.

( I think it will take away some rear grip ........ I'm also interested to know the answer of this question too for 415 cars ).


I don't know if this experience is applicable for 1/10 electric cars :

In my 1/8 nitro car, high roll center cause my mrx4r to understeer at middle cornering ........ probably because of too little body roll action on the back, thus the car hard to roll and simply turn wide.

After I changed the rear suspension block with the lowest roll center ( close to main chassis ), my understeering problem become less crazy.

yes, using spacers/plates under the suspension mounts TAKES AWAY GRIP, this is too free the car up in corners and/or switchbacks.


I look at it like this:

picture the rear of the car
on bottom you have the arms
on top the upper arm mount/turnbuckle

the closer the upper and lower are to each other the LESS grip



the further apart the upper and lower are the MORE grip



tamiya's like level upper mounts/turnbuckles, so we space under the arms







thanks for the rear brace answers

This weekend looks to be shaping up nicely. I don't know if I'm going to come out. I may wait until the following weekend and run on the electric only Saturday.

sweet, I am trying to run all the electric only races as well.

my 415 is working well in mod

I'm switching to the short arms on the car and won't have all the parts for the set up for this weekend. Even though it's looking like a great turnout for Sunday I'm not too sure the weather will hold up. I'll be ready for next weekend though.

just the arms and mounts or the whole 416 suspension setup?

the 416 setup may work on asphalt AND carpet for you
( carpet's done this season , forget it )

Just the arms and front blocks and the front drive shafts since I was told that the 46mm one's are too long.

Did you go with the WE's C/C or Jilles outdoor baseline D/D for the front blocks?

Going with C/C. The guy that tested the set up went with these blocks. I'm sure as time allows the D/D blocks will be tested.

Hello,

Would you use a center one-way with a spool or do you use a center one-way with a one-way in the front??

Thanks!
__________________

Typically it's either double one-way or double locked. I've not seen a setup for a center one-way and front spool...

Though I have seen aftermarket optional front-one-way out-drives that are keyed together (locked). This would effectively cause the front one-way to behave the same as the spool/one-way your asking about.

Thanks for the input!....... My car was behaving strange with a one-way/spool set-up until the one-way bearings gave out.

BTW,......... You wouldn't happen to know the part # for a locked pulley?

Again, Thanks!

The last club race before the Reedy had two 415's finishing 1st and 2nd. I really had mine rocking this weekend. The car felt great and they say it's only going to get better when I put the short arms on it. If that's true then the guys out my way better be on the look out Tryhard can now rest easy because I was finally able to make use of all that wonderful info on his website I did the modifications suggested to get the flex even on my 415 and the car feels great. The set up I'm running feels great and I'll hopefully have it posted on www.gearchart.com shortly.

Tamiya TRF415MSX Marc Rheinard Direct Center Shaft #3454395

This part simply requires two of the plastic pulleys, as well as the large E-clip to hold them on. You will also need a couple 4mm inner-diameter shims...

http://www.vellrip.com/store/product...sp?p=1606&c=78

what suspension blocks did you run ??