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Old 08-04-2007, 02:48 PM   #18991
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Is that a genuine Tamiya diff? If it is, I think the blue one was a limited release. Just get the aluminium diff, it is much easier to find and much cheaper. The part number is 53889.
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:31 PM   #18992
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ok thanks for the help
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Old 08-04-2007, 09:32 PM   #18993
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Originally Posted by m3ndo5a View Post
Why go higher......on the reduction

Should want to go lower......want to get as close to 1:1 as possible

Hybrid: 18t 3racing pullies 35t TRF pullies no belt changes 1.944 reduction

That is where the power is at The same IR as the TECH RACING MEDUSA MY07......
Whats the reason to get the internal drive ratio as close to 1:1 as possible? Isn't what the final drive ratio what matters?

Lets say I'm going for a 5.0 FDR, and I have a car with a 1:1 internal drive ratio. To get that I would need something like a 100t spur and a 20t pinion.
100/20x1 = 5.

Whats the difference if I got that same ratio with an internal drive ratio of 2.25? I would use instead a 100t spur and a 45t pinion.
100/45x2.25 = 5.
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Old 08-04-2007, 10:53 PM   #18994
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It's mostly down to efficiency from less friction.. the larger the pulleys, the more teeth of the belt are in contact with the pulley at once, allowing the belt to not be set so tight. Also, the less the belt has to bend to wrap around the pulley, this also increases efficiency.

Of course, who's really going to notice this except the top % of racers trying to get every ounce out of their motor..
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Old 08-05-2007, 06:38 AM   #18995
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Originally Posted by Tek Nickal View Post
Whats the reason to get the internal drive ratio as close to 1:1 as possible? Isn't what the final drive ratio what matters?

Lets say I'm going for a 5.0 FDR, and I have a car with a 1:1 internal drive ratio. To get that I would need something like a 100t spur and a 20t pinion.
100/20x1 = 5.

Whats the difference if I got that same ratio with an internal drive ratio of 2.25? I would use instead a 100t spur and a 45t pinion.
100/45x2.25 = 5.

You would notice the different, but ofcourse you will not get to a 1:1...but there is one kit that I can think of that had 1:1 the Corally Assassin....it was very strong in the Stock.

FDR and IR are two completely different things....IR will determine how much more quicker or faster the kit will be with Eff% with the Motor...Sorry if this
does not clear thing up.

But real quick you can gear an Xray and a 415 at the same FDR (5).....yet they will not accelerate the same....because of the IR eff%. Yes this is "marginal"....not eye poping nor mouth dropping. But I know the difference between my MRE performance and my MY07 on the same FDR. The MY07 is faster But with the conversion its hard to tell them apart. Other than the Cornering speed....the MEDUSA pulls away.

To be honest its not worth the change. It really come down to trigger control....Slow in fast out. If you find yourself dancing and pumping on the trigger you can hang it up.

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Old 08-05-2007, 08:59 PM   #18996
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The diff joint from the previous page is not from Tamiya, it is some aftermarket ones. The Tamiya blue diff joint is the same as the original silver one, except in blue.
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:21 AM   #18997
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Hey

Did you notice that new diff modification in Marc car?

He use 501 37th pulley with bigger diffplates and 12 balls = last longer and less maintenance

http://data4.blog.de/media/585/1853585_3f0309218a_l.jpg
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:34 PM   #18998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
Hey

Did you notice that new diff modification in Marc car?

He use 501 37th pulley with bigger diffplates and 12 balls = last longer and less maintenance

http://data4.blog.de/media/585/1853585_3f0309218a_l.jpg
Yes !
use XRAY T2'007 Rear belt , MRE Front belt
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Old 08-07-2007, 12:45 AM   #18999
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Hey guy's I have a problem I can't get my car below 5.5 for rear ride height. My shocks all measure 62.5 or very close in the 62. range.

I just figure what could be the problem. I'm also looking to get more steering out of the car. initial steering while entering. I'm running a spool on a MRE 415 edetion.

Hey this weekend I had a good run. but with a minute left in the race. my whole right front arm assembly flew off. nothing is broken that I can see. I though I just lost a front tire. but to my surprise I lost whold arm assembly. I don't recall hitting a board hard or anything esle. I'm planning on stripping the car down to the main plate and doing a good rebuild.

Does any one have a good setup for Stock/19turn. with a spool on Asphalt.

I'm also running CS 27 pre mounts. I notice that hex are getting spun insise the rims. either the rims are to big our my hex.s are worn out. but they seem fine.

My last question would the 3hole piston that came with the car on the tree work in the shocks. or do I need to pick up some proper ones. right now now i'm running 2 hole with 25 AE oil.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-07-2007, 09:12 AM   #19000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
Hey guy's I have a problem I can't get my car below 5.5 for rear ride height. My shocks all measure 62.5 or very close in the 62. range.
It could happen with foams.... get the tamiya short springs... with them you can go down close to 1mm
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Old 08-07-2007, 09:21 AM   #19001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruisaaja View Post
Hey

Did you notice that new diff modification in Marc car?

He use 501 37th pulley with bigger diffplates and 12 balls = last longer and less maintenance

http://data4.blog.de/media/585/1853585_3f0309218a_l.jpg
They have had this on their cars since before the reedy race. It was in the pictures from the reedy race but nobody took notice. They modified the stock 36T pulley by drilling 8 new holes inbetween the outer holes for accepting 16 diffballs. Pair this with the diffplates from the 501x and you have a diff that lasts. I currently use 17/37 pullies on my car with xray belts.
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:05 AM   #19002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
Hey guy's I have a problem I can't get my car below 5.5 for rear ride height. My shocks all measure 62.5 or very close in the 62. range.

I just figure what could be the problem. I'm also looking to get more steering out of the car. initial steering while entering. I'm running a spool on a MRE 415 edetion.

Hey this weekend I had a good run. but with a minute left in the race. my whole right front arm assembly flew off. nothing is broken that I can see. I though I just lost a front tire. but to my surprise I lost whold arm assembly. I don't recall hitting a board hard or anything esle. I'm planning on stripping the car down to the main plate and doing a good rebuild.

Does any one have a good setup for Stock/19turn. with a spool on Asphalt.

I'm also running CS 27 pre mounts. I notice that hex are getting spun insise the rims. either the rims are to big our my hex.s are worn out. but they seem fine.

My last question would the 3hole piston that came with the car on the tree work in the shocks. or do I need to pick up some proper ones. right now now i'm running 2 hole with 25 AE oil.

Thanks in advance.
run these:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=459&id=5803

they lower the bottom perch 1mm, work great on my MRE
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Old 08-09-2007, 03:04 AM   #19003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Orange View Post
They have had this on their cars since before the reedy race. It was in the pictures from the reedy race but nobody took notice. They modified the stock 36T pulley by drilling 8 new holes inbetween the outer holes for accepting 16 diffballs. Pair this with the diffplates from the 501x and you have a diff that lasts. I currently use 17/37 pullies on my car with xray belts.
Thanks

If i looked right that pic i notice at he run 37th pulley rear and 16th in the middle?

IR is 2.312?
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Old 08-09-2007, 03:20 AM   #19004
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quick question guys, whats the biggest 48p spur u can fit in the msx without it hanging out the bottom chassis?

cheers
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Old 08-09-2007, 10:05 AM   #19005
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i got a 81th spur and it seems to be the limit
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