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Old 05-11-2009, 01:24 PM   #20521
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Has anybody tried the ifs's plastic version of the long arms? I got a set as backup cause their so cheap, as I'm still undecided about swtiching to short arms (cost is a turnoff). I'm just wondering what sort of change in performance there will be with a more flexi arm???
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:45 PM   #20522
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Hi everyone,

I just picked up a used 415 MSX recently and have been trying my best to read this thread from the very beginning. I have a race coming up soon and was wondering if you could point me in the right direction so I can at least purchase the parts I need. I will be racing in RCGT at a hobbytown outdoor unprepared asphalt. I just purchased the tekin rs pro 17.5 system. I know that the I should start with a FDR of about 3.5 and go up. I'm looking for a 64P spur gear but not sure what size I should start with that will fit the car and have the space for necessary adjustments.

Does anyone have a link where I can read up on the suspension mounts? It's kinda confusing. I'm currently running the std arms, I haven't switched to the shorter arms yet because the car came with a bunch of spare std arms. Or maybe a ball park figure of what arms I should start with in the front and rear so i can go order them online would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone else running a tekin rs 17.5 and have a starting setting that I can try?

Sorry for the lengthy post and numerous questions. I'm very new to the hobby and feel overwhelmed with the amount of reading that I feel that I must do!

Thanks in advance.

Ray
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:51 PM   #20523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by home13oy75 View Post
Hi everyone,

I just picked up a used 415 MSX recently and have been trying my best to read this thread from the very beginning. I have a race coming up soon and was wondering if you could point me in the right direction so I can at least purchase the parts I need. I will be racing in RCGT at a hobbytown outdoor unprepared asphalt. I just purchased the tekin rs pro 17.5 system. I know that the I should start with a FDR of about 3.5 and go up. I'm looking for a 64P spur gear but not sure what size I should start with that will fit the car and have the space for necessary adjustments.

Does anyone have a link where I can read up on the suspension mounts? It's kinda confusing. I'm currently running the std arms, I haven't switched to the shorter arms yet because the car came with a bunch of spare std arms. Or maybe a ball park figure of what arms I should start with in the front and rear so i can go order them online would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone else running a tekin rs 17.5 and have a starting setting that I can try?

Sorry for the lengthy post and numerous questions. I'm very new to the hobby and feel overwhelmed with the amount of reading that I feel that I must do!

Thanks in advance.

Ray
Try his website for suspension questions and set-ups : http://www.thard.co.uk/415
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Old 05-15-2009, 03:12 PM   #20524
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If you switch to the new short arms, you can start with the blocks that come with the TRF416-Worlds Edition (1C/1C & 1XA/1F). It has no front arm sweep and 3.5* rear toe. You need to buy the TB03/416 version of the 1C block for the rearward front mount cause it must be flipped upside down and mounted atop 3mm spacers to clear the belt (416 style). This is because there is no "bridge" version of the 1C, and there older 415 1C block cannot be flipped upside down. For other short arm setups, check the Jilles Groskamp thread...

With the standard arms, go for the blocks used on the MSXX. They have a little front arm sweep and 3* toe in the back. Runs quite nice at my local hobbytown parking lot track.

MSX tip: Get the new TRF Fluorine sealed 950 bearings for the wheels. These will keep the dirt out and make the bearings last a million times longer than the standard sheilded ones. I've got half a season so far with zero maintenece, where the metal bearings need to be cleaned & oiled after two race days (and still get ruined). You will need 4 pairs of the 950 size. RDVTG Hobbies on eBay sells them for $5.30 a pair and cost only $2+1 each item to ship. Plus they get here in only 5 days (from Japan).

You can also switch to the newer style hubs from the 416 & TB03, but they require many other parts to make them work (uprights, C hubs, wider axles, 1050 bearings, 2mm shorter driveshafts & new king-pins). For 17.5, the 950 bearing suspension should be fine...
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:01 PM   #20525
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whats the tamiya part# for the 950 bearings?
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:40 PM   #20526
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Quote:
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whats the tamiya part# for the 950 bearings?
42112

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-950-Fluor...3286.m20.l1116

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Old 05-15-2009, 07:18 PM   #20527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
If you switch to the new short arms, you can start with the blocks that come with the TRF416-Worlds Edition (1C/1C & 1XA/1F). It has no front arm sweep and 3.5* rear toe. You need to buy the TB03/416 version of the 1C block for the rearward front mount cause it must be flipped upside down and mounted atop 3mm spacers to clear the belt (416 style). This is because there is no "bridge" version of the 1C, and there older 415 1C block cannot be flipped upside down. For other short arm setups, check the Jilles Groskamp thread...

With the standard arms, go for the blocks used on the MSXX. They have a little front arm sweep and 3* toe in the back. Runs quite nice at my local hobbytown parking lot track.

MSX tip: Get the new TRF Fluorine sealed 950 bearings for the wheels. These will keep the dirt out and make the bearings last a million times longer than the standard sheilded ones. I've got half a season so far with zero maintenece, where the metal bearings need to be cleaned & oiled after two race days (and still get ruined). You will need 4 pairs of the 950 size. RDVTG Hobbies on eBay sells them for $5.30 a pair and cost only $2+1 each item to ship. Plus they get here in only 5 days (from Japan).

You can also switch to the newer style hubs from the 416 & TB03, but they require many other parts to make them work (uprights, C hubs, wider axles, 1050 bearings, 2mm shorter driveshafts & new king-pins). For 17.5, the 950 bearing suspension should be fine...
Thanks! This is just the info that I was looking for
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:29 PM   #20528
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For asphalt, do you recommend running a spool or one way? This is on a low grip asphalt parking lot. The car came with a one way. If I do change out to a spool do I need to purchase just a spool or are there other parts needed? I believe I read that the one way has a center one way and I'm not sure if a spool runs with a center one way as well.

Any suggestion on a starting point for a 64 P spur gear for a 17.5?
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Old 05-16-2009, 01:01 AM   #20529
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You don't run the spool with a center one-way. You definitely want the locked center shaft to go with either a spool or a front diff.

At our local Hobbytown parking lot races, I use a locked center and a front one way. We cannot use spools cause the turns are way too tight to work. None of the expert drivers here have made them work. I'm switching to a front diff (as soon as parts arrive) cause that's what all the experts use no matter what the brand of chassis.

Try it with the one-way and see what you think. Remember you cannot use brakes. It's great for hot-laps, but gets really difficult to be aggressive in traffic. Brakes and alternate lines seem very necessary...

Spool & locked center are good for real asphalt tracks...
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Old 05-18-2009, 07:21 PM   #20530
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I have the 415 and about to switch over to the newer short arms. I'm about to buy TAM 53928. Do I have to purchase the shorter swing shafts? I 'm currently running 46 in the front and 48 in the rear. Any other parts that I need other than the suspension blocks?
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Old 05-18-2009, 11:15 PM   #20531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by home13oy75 View Post
I have the 415 and about to switch over to the newer short arms. I'm about to buy TAM 53928. Do I have to purchase the shorter swing shafts? I 'm currently running 46 in the front and 48 in the rear. Any other parts that I need other than the suspension blocks?
If you have wider suspension blocks, then you don't need shorter swing-shafts...
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:55 AM   #20532
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The car is ready for the reedy race. I'll post pics later on tonight. I didn't do a complete rebuild like in years past. This years reedy doesn't have the luster of years past so all I did was a club race rebuild. I didn't even replace my belts I will still do my best. There are a few 415's running at this event so we'll see how we stack up to the newer 416. I will keep you guys posted.
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:58 PM   #20533
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Quote:
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whats the tamiya part# for the 950 bearings?
avidrc buck eaach.
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:00 PM   #20534
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avidrc buck eaach.
Been using the avids

but if these would last a season that would save $ and not slow me during a race day if I don't change bearings
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Old 05-20-2009, 06:51 PM   #20535
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for the msxx, changing the chassis to astick pack version would it require anything else aside from the chassis. Also will this make the lipo fit better?
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