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Old 12-13-2004, 02:24 PM   #5521
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trf415boy,

thx for the advice. that's good advice. but i will keep acerbearings inmind when i need new bearings. what's with the evo4 suspension that causes additional wear on the hub bearings?

i dont' want to screw up this car like my ta04trf a few yrs ago. want to learn everything about it b4 i buy it.
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Old 12-13-2004, 02:27 PM   #5522
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mainly, the bearings dont last as long cause they are small, 5x9 to be exact. makes the cage and interior very small, and spin fast.
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Old 12-13-2004, 02:32 PM   #5523
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hm... also i have a few more questions... hopefully people won't mind i am plauging this thread w/ newb questions...

what does that "reversible" suspension mean? and is the LW suspension on the MS any good? i keep hearing bad stuff about it, but i don't know what's true and what's not and the reasons why for it.

thx for spending the time to answer my questions
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:00 PM   #5524
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reversible means you can flip them and that provides more tuning options, as the other side has different holes for the shock location.

This suspension is not as strong as the old style suspension and it can break more easily, but some will say it's the price for performance. If you're a newb and still hit stuff, then just stick with the old suspension of the original 415, it's already very good and more durable.
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:07 PM   #5525
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF415boy
Ceramic balls are not plain ceramic, they are mild steel balls with a ceramic coating (I'm simplifying things, please do not flame). I have a set of ceramic balls in my TRF 414's diff and these diffs are just the smoothest i'e ever had (although it's not only the fact that they are ceramic, but also that they are selected for their roundness and they all are equal diameters, etc...). I've also got a set of ceramic bearings in it, and same thing, they're really sweet, they last long and require less maintenance.

Now, they won't give you anymore runtime than the stock bearings if you keep them in good condition. Also, keep in mind that on the MS (with evo 4 suspension) the wheel bearings don't last a lot of time, and this will be true for ceramic bearings aswell, even if they may prove to last longer than the stock bearings.

My advice is : get a 415 if you want and run it box stock, then when time comes to change the bearings or ball diffs, maybe you can consider ceramic ones. I found Acer Racing's stuff to be excellent for a good price.
Not flamming, but this is the first I have ever hear of ceramic bearings are steel with a ceramic coating and I was unaware of this. Where did you net this information? And if this is true, wouldn't ceramic bearings be just a tad bit lighter than their 100% steel counterparts? But, instead, there is a HUGE difference in weight between the 2. The difference is so great you can actaully tell the difference between 1 steel diff ball and 1 ceramic diff ball.

Do ceramics have a very small steel core?

I am very interested to know.
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:15 PM   #5526
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trf415boy,

what do you mean by u can "flip them"?
just wondering what does "them" refer to in this case? (it means i can screw the same plate on "backwards"?) unsure of the meaning there.

the MS has no problem using the original 415 plate? i run 19T on a track with not a lot of straights, so just fr your personal experience, (and no u dont' need to be responsible for anything i end up breaking, not going to blame anyone for my horrible skills) u think the MS plate will be able to stand up to it?

that steel ball thing is interesting too, i want to understand how that works too
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:21 PM   #5527
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF415boy
reversible means you can flip them and that provides more tuning options, as the other side has different holes for the shock location.

This suspension is not as strong as the old style suspension and it can break more easily, but some will say it's the price for performance. If you're a newb and still hit stuff, then just stick with the old suspension of the original 415, it's already very good and more durable.
wow, a couple of days ago you didn't know what an A-front bridge block, now you are giving advice.
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:21 PM   #5528
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy Caster
Aint she pretty
Eww it looks terrible Randy... you need to sell it to me right away.


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Old 12-13-2004, 03:26 PM   #5529
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF415boy
Ceramic balls are not plain ceramic, they are mild steel balls with a ceramic coating (I'm simplifying things, please do not flame). I have a set of ceramic balls in my TRF 414's diff and these diffs are just the smoothest i'e ever had (although it's not only the fact that they are ceramic, but also that they are selected for their roundness and they all are equal diameters, etc...). I've also got a set of ceramic bearings in it, and same thing, they're really sweet, they last long and require less maintenance.

Now, they won't give you anymore runtime than the stock bearings if you keep them in good condition. Also, keep in mind that on the MS (with evo 4 suspension) the wheel bearings don't last a lot of time, and this will be true for ceramic bearings aswell, even if they may prove to last longer than the stock bearings.

My advice is : get a 415 if you want and run it box stock, then when time comes to change the bearings or ball diffs, maybe you can consider ceramic ones. I found Acer Racing's stuff to be excellent for a good price.
i'm with koabich, I don't think ceramic balls are steels balls with ceramic coating, simplifying or not. there are many kind of ceramic materials but the ones that we use for rc is made out of silicon nitride. it has a VERY different property than steel coated with ceramic. you might be thinking of the white Ginzu knives as seen on TV.
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Old 12-13-2004, 03:37 PM   #5530
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Did Rheinhard use the Alex Racing Barracuda R3 sway bar kit
(Product # A6341-A6343) during the worlds?

I noticed the decal on his car as well as the black sway bars like these ones -

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Old 12-13-2004, 04:07 PM   #5531
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What is the diameter of those sways?
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Old 12-13-2004, 04:12 PM   #5532
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I have no idea Chris - sorry
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Old 12-13-2004, 05:05 PM   #5533
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcnewb2004
trf415boy,

what do you mean by u can "flip them"?
just wondering what does "them" refer to in this case? (it means i can screw the same plate on "backwards"?) unsure of the meaning there.

the MS has no problem using the original 415 plate? i run 19T on a track with not a lot of straights, so just fr your personal experience, (and no u dont' need to be responsible for anything i end up breaking, not going to blame anyone for my horrible skills) u think the MS plate will be able to stand up to it?

that steel ball thing is interesting too, i want to understand how that works too
by "flip" i mean that for example on the front wishbones, there is no left/right (which is now common) but also no front/rear side. One has 2 holes for the shock, the opther has 3 with 3mm offset, which gives 5 possible mounting positions for the schock on the wishbone, depending on which side you use to put the shock.

About the plate, i can't tell for sure but the only difference as far as i know with the stock 415 plate is the thickness, 2.5mm instead of 3.
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Old 12-13-2004, 05:14 PM   #5534
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kenshin
wow, a couple of days ago you didn't know what an A-front bridge block, now you are giving advice.
Well, i'm new on this board and didn't want to end up with reading the whole 180+ pages to find out (ok i'm exagerating). I used the LW suspension on my TRF 414 and i'm just getting a 415 now that you can get some at reasonable price. Plus, I've got experience from the SD about small bearings.

I didn't notice a huge weight difference in my bearings. All i'm saying i base it on my knowledge of materials, a full ceramic ball will just get destroyed at the first crash because it will not have any resilience.

All ceramic materials i came across were made out of steel, which surface is then impregnated with an additive by being warmed to a few 100's degrees and then placed in a atmosphere saturated with the additive we want to use (like nitride).

The additive diffuses into the material to depths of a few microns, then the part is quenched. The nitride on the surface of the mild steel makes for a quenching only on the surface and not in the core of the material (because mild steel cannot be quenched). I may be wrong but I know that there have been problems with ceramic bearings in bikes, because the surface of the balls was peeling off, as the core was deformating and the coating (which is not a coating in reality) could not because it was too hard.
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Old 12-13-2004, 05:24 PM   #5535
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF415boy
Well, i'm new on this board and didn't want to end up with reading the whole 180+ pages to find out (ok i'm exagerating). I used the LW suspension on my TRF 414 and i'm just getting a 415 now that you can get some at reasonable price. Plus, I've got experience from the SD about small bearings.

I didn't notice a huge weight difference in my bearings. All i'm saying i base it on my knowledge of materials, a full ceramic ball will just get destroyed at the first crash because it will not have any resilience.

All ceramic materials i came across were made out of steel, which surface is then impregnated with an additive by being warmed to a few 100's degrees and then placed in a atmosphere saturated with the additive we want to use (like nitride).

The additive diffuses into the material to depths of a few microns, then the part is quenched. The nitride on the surface of the mild steel makes for a quenching only on the surface and not in the core of the material (because mild steel cannot be quenched). I may be wrong but I know that there have been problems with ceramic bearings in bikes, because the surface of the balls was peeling off, as the core was deformating and the coating (which is not a coating in reality) could not beca
use it was too hard.
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