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Old 02-26-2006, 12:37 PM   #13021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
Thanks guys

Would it be possible to explain the ideas behind some of the changes you've mentioned as I'm not sure I understand why some of those changes would help

In particular:

Longer front link with 2mm spacer
Removing red foam from shocks
Lighter shock oil


Also, why would removing the sway bar help? I used it for the first time yesterday and the cars on-power steering was better than it had ever been. If I take it off then isn't it likely that I'll lose that power-on steering?
ok i dont exactly know why you want to make the link longer or lower it.id leave it as it is.
going to a lighter shock oil and removing the red foam will help turn in and be more consistant.
also put a spool and a locked center pulley in.this will aid exit steering.
anti roll bars can unsettle the car especially put in the back only.ive never heard of anyone making a succes with that.
just try different things especially whats suggested.
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Old 02-26-2006, 01:00 PM   #13022
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Bender,

Making the front link longer will give you more steering/traction!!

By angeling it a litle more with the 2mm spacer will give you more turn inn like you wanted!

By removing the Foam things you will get more traction, more high speed steering and the car will most likely carry more corner speed unless the tracion is super high.

By removing the rear swaybar I am not sure what you will gain or loose, but I never run a rear swaybar alone and have never seen anyone else use it either.
If my car is really twitchy I will put swaybars on front and rear to make the car easier to drive.... very effective in hot conditions when the tires are overheating etc.
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Old 02-26-2006, 01:31 PM   #13023
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I dont know how to get the shaft for the TA05, is there a part number? the one on the manual is MA24
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Old 02-26-2006, 02:19 PM   #13024
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Does anybody run their car box-stock? All of these mods make my head spin!!! Maybe I should run a bolink car?!?!
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Old 02-26-2006, 02:23 PM   #13025
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I run my car kinda 'box-stock' apart from a front diff, direct pulley and a few shims under the suspension blocks but i doubt my car will be box stock at the end of the season

Charles
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:44 PM   #13026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
@Jack2 / TRF Racer

Ok my setup is attached. Some of things you've mentioned I am already running, such as inboard toe-out on the front and double one-ways.

I completely forgot about droop - that is something I'll try next time.
Yes, never forget droop. Very underated tuning option in my opinion. It would be the first thing I'd look at if I was you.

Eirik listed the other things I would play with. But, I wouldn't remove the sway bar, I have ran on a concrete surface a couple of times and I found running the red bar on the back and running softer springs worked better than running slightly stiffer springs and no bar. Especially if its dusty & bumpy.

On concrete I ran Tamiya yellow springs on the front and Tamiya reds on the rear with red roll bars on the front and rear. I will list the whole setup if you want.
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:19 PM   #13027
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I need help with setup also.
I run at a medium sized ashphalt medium to low grip.
I have the stock setup at the moment but what new things should i try
that could make my car handle better.
Does anyone run on a similar track with a ms or msx that i could use setup.
here is a pic of the track
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF415-nhrccc.jpeg  
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:08 PM   #13028
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well, for starters, where I come from, thats no medium size track. That looks quite large to me........ Is that track in NZ ?

I will PM you a setup
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:35 PM   #13029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack2
But, I wouldn't remove the sway bar, I have ran on a concrete surface a couple of times and I found running the red bar on the back and running softer springs worked better than running slightly stiffer springs and no bar. Especially if its dusty & bumpy.

On concrete I ran Tamiya yellow springs on the front and Tamiya reds on the rear with red roll bars on the front and rear.
That's what I found too with the sway bar on the rear only - it allowed me to run a slightly softer spring whilst making the rear end stiff enough thru the turns to give me the power-on steering I wanted. I will take the bar off only as a last resort.

I've tried the car with yellows, and even with sway bars it's just too soft for me. I just can't drive a car that feels lazy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eirik
Making the front link longer will give you more steering/traction!!

By angeling it a litle more with the 2mm spacer will give you more turn inn like you wanted!

By removing the Foam things you will get more traction, more high speed steering and the car will most likely carry more corner speed unless the tracion is super high.
Yep I understand that you said they will give me more steering, but what I want to know is WHY and HOW.

For example you said removing the red foam gives more traction - my question is Why does it give more traction?

I am trying to learn about the theory and logic behind various adjustments ,not only what effect they have, but why that effect occured.
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:42 PM   #13030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
That's what I found too with the sway bar on the rear only - it allowed me to run a slightly softer spring whilst making the rear end stiff enough thru the turns to give me the power-on steering I wanted. I will take the bar off only as a last resort.

I've tried the car with yellows, and even with sway bars it's just too soft for me. I just can't drive a car that feels lazy.



Yep I understand that you said they will give me more steering, but what I want to know is WHY and HOW.

For example you said removing the red foam gives more traction - my question is Why does it give more traction?

I am trying to learn about the theory and logic behind various adjustments ,not only what effect they have, but why that effect occured.
Bender,

Try to get this book and everything will be explained and you will learn how to set up your car and what changes need to be made to get your car to do what you want or not do what you don't want. http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/xxx/xxxb001.htm
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:28 PM   #13031
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Default Diff covers and diff balls

I’ve read that some of you have been running ceramic diff balls and adapting some covers to make the diffs last longer between rebuilds. Can someone describe this in more details, preferably with part numbers? Sorry if this has been covered before.

Thanks,

Vincent
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:28 PM   #13032
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Good setup chat going on here. Good to see!

I must confess that I've never played around with the bulkhead mounting locations like a longer link on the front so that is something that I would not mind trying.

What has people's thoughts on the Pro Module suspension been, after its been out now for such a long time. There was heaps of chat prior to its release, but since its been released, almost none. I had a warped bearing hole in my LWT suspension rear upright so for about a month I've been using my Pro Module suspension and I've gotten the car to work pretty well with it. The thing that annoys me the most about it is it's inconsistency through the corners. Sometimes it will oversteer and understeer through the same bend, particularly the high speed stuff. The lower speed corners the car works great I think.

The other thing is that I agree in that stiffer springs are the go with the 415MSX, as I've got a very comfortable setup with the Pro Module suspension on it now with Tamiya White on the front and the softer Tamiya Blue spring (that you get with the alternative touring/rally spring set - recommended for DJ Pro Module suspension) on the rear.

I'd love to hear other people's reports and findings on the Pro Module suspension now, particularly with the 415MSX flexmeister.
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:55 PM   #13033
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@F1 Larry

I've read that book, and unfortunately I've found (like all setup guides it seems) that it isn't very accurate or at the least inconsistant. Each guide seems to contradict each other

I want to know the theory or logic behind various adjustments so I can determine if they are likely to work the same way for me as they do for others.

For example: I have often been told that if the car gets more roll at the front, then it will have more steering. My experience has been the complete opposite - so if someone suggests that as something to try, then I would rather try another suggestion first, one that might be more likely to work for me.

That's why I'm curious about things like removing the red foam etc - I have theories as to what is happening, but would like to hear other's experience before determining which direction to head in.
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Old 02-26-2006, 11:18 PM   #13034
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Bender,

Testing with and without the red foams spacers in the shocks has been talked about before, infact Ed Clark (Tryhard) did a pretty good test on it I believe (on carpet for memory), I'm just not sure how many pages back it was. I have messed around with it, I found that it gave the shocks less rebound and generally made more grip, especially on medium/lower grip tracks.

It makes the car feel a little more predictable, stable and consistant from turn to turn. With the spacer, because there is more, well I'll call it pressure as the is a foam spacer there instead of air, it seems to make the car a tad more twitchy and just doesn't seem to generate as much grip.
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Old 02-26-2006, 11:22 PM   #13035
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so does anyone know how to get the TA05 center shaft to fit the two 16t pulleys?
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