Tekin RS ESC sensored
06-16-2010, 01:57 PM
try this
http://philhoggartracing.webs.com/Te...-RS-SP13.5.pdf
this is what i use on our large outdoor track , with a 70m straight
PLEASE NOTE 0 turbo delay
http://philhoggartracing.webs.com/Te...-RS-SP13.5.pdf
this is what i use on our large outdoor track , with a 70m straight
PLEASE NOTE 0 turbo delay
06-16-2010, 02:26 PM
sorry my mistake it should be 0 turbo delay
Try this link
http://philhoggartracing.webs.com/Te...-RS-SP13.5.pdf
Try this link
http://philhoggartracing.webs.com/Te...-RS-SP13.5.pdf
06-16-2010, 03:03 PM
phill no doubt about your skils
but do a count up for your timing.52/12/10 thats crazy
a motor per run lol
above 60timing total is high risk and has no point exept making your wires cook haha
but do a count up for your timing.52/12/10 thats crazy
a motor per run lol
above 60timing total is high risk and has no point exept making your wires cook haha
06-16-2010, 03:29 PM
I didn't see the turbo ramp rate listed Phil. Are you using 1 or 2? I can't imagine using 3 with those other settings.
Thanks
Thanks
06-16-2010, 04:31 PM
For those experiencing "fade" try replaceing you capacitor.
Ideally with a new one. the capicitor is designed to flatten out the load spikes created by the large inrush current experienced when either under throttle or at full timing. What you maybe experiencing is a degrade of the capacitor over the period of time mentioned and the cap isn't able to fully "recharge" and remove some of the unwanted "frequencies" created by thetiming being apllied. This is also why tekin wish you to run their specific cap because of its low esr properties. As Randy mentioned before if you don't have a spare tekin cap then you can use a higher capacity cap say a 1000uf but this just allows the cap to have a simular esf rating.
Anyhow, What would i know.
Ideally with a new one. the capicitor is designed to flatten out the load spikes created by the large inrush current experienced when either under throttle or at full timing. What you maybe experiencing is a degrade of the capacitor over the period of time mentioned and the cap isn't able to fully "recharge" and remove some of the unwanted "frequencies" created by thetiming being apllied. This is also why tekin wish you to run their specific cap because of its low esr properties. As Randy mentioned before if you don't have a spare tekin cap then you can use a higher capacity cap say a 1000uf but this just allows the cap to have a simular esf rating.
Anyhow, What would i know.
06-16-2010, 05:22 PM
For those experiencing "fade" try replaceing you capacitor.
Ideally with a new one. the capicitor is designed to flatten out the load spikes created by the large inrush current experienced when either under throttle or at full timing. What you maybe experiencing is a degrade of the capacitor over the period of time mentioned and the cap isn't able to fully "recharge" and remove some of the unwanted "frequencies" created by thetiming being apllied. This is also why tekin wish you to run their specific cap because of its low esr properties. As Randy mentioned before if you don't have a spare tekin cap then you can use a higher capacity cap say a 1000uf but this just allows the cap to have a simular esf rating.
Anyhow, What would i know.
Ideally with a new one. the capicitor is designed to flatten out the load spikes created by the large inrush current experienced when either under throttle or at full timing. What you maybe experiencing is a degrade of the capacitor over the period of time mentioned and the cap isn't able to fully "recharge" and remove some of the unwanted "frequencies" created by thetiming being apllied. This is also why tekin wish you to run their specific cap because of its low esr properties. As Randy mentioned before if you don't have a spare tekin cap then you can use a higher capacity cap say a 1000uf but this just allows the cap to have a simular esf rating.
Anyhow, What would i know.
06-16-2010, 08:17 PM
Ya, from day one I have been calibrating and then bumping up the higpoint 5-10 points. It was always flashing all the LEDS. I can't logically agree with #2 as I could pull the car in after the turbo was gone and the motor was around 160. Turn the esc off, on and go right back out and have the turbo work again for another few minutes. As for #3 the esc was only flashing 4 LEDS for temp.
06-16-2010, 10:27 PM
it works , i ran it like this at Groninen with gearing of 6.6 then swapped the pinion to a 2 tooth for Deventer on sunday
i love it like this
06-16-2010, 10:27 PM
06-17-2010, 05:16 AM
To keep from confusion, i have borrowed two separate RS's since my RS was in for repair. The first borrowed RS gave me NO issues. Worked like a charm and made me instantly love the speedo. The second borrowed RS is the one that gave me the current issues...
Another local suggested the same thing after my run. He asked how i set my throttle/brake endpoints and i told him i set them both at 125% to calibrate the RS. Brake usually gets turned down to the low 80's during use. He suggested settings as you just did, but havent been back to the track yet to try them.
I used these settings because they are basically my 'defaults' for any speedo i have used over the years. It allows me to compare speedos based on previously known parameters. If i wanted to stay close to that, then wouldnt turning it up to 135% after calibration at 125% be the same? I would hate having to cram all that throttle response into 90% of throw.
Another local suggested the same thing after my run. He asked how i set my throttle/brake endpoints and i told him i set them both at 125% to calibrate the RS. Brake usually gets turned down to the low 80's during use. He suggested settings as you just did, but havent been back to the track yet to try them.
I used these settings because they are basically my 'defaults' for any speedo i have used over the years. It allows me to compare speedos based on previously known parameters. If i wanted to stay close to that, then wouldnt turning it up to 135% after calibration at 125% be the same? I would hate having to cram all that throttle response into 90% of throw.
06-17-2010, 05:29 AM
Wouldnt it be the other way round? (correct me if im wrong) but you have to set the endpoints at 125, calibrate the esc, then turn them up to the 135 on the remote so that the remote is going past the parameters of the esc so this eliminates the chance of signal fluctuating?
Calibrate radio at 95% and then after calibration increase to 100% worked best.
Most troublesome radio has been the KO and on these we set the esc at 90% and then increase to 100%
When we calibrated to the higher % we always had turbo not working after a few laps or after 3 mins or so.
06-17-2010, 05:29 AM
Tekins most colorful racer will be at Norcal this Saturday having fun and helping out "ALL" that may need help getting ready for the nats. Just follow the laughter in the pits
06-17-2010, 08:30 AM
Wouldnt it be the other way round? (correct me if im wrong) but you have to set the endpoints at 125, calibrate the esc, then turn them up to the 135 on the remote so that the remote is going past the parameters of the esc so this eliminates the chance of signal fluctuating?
From what im reading and being told, calibrating over 100% IS a problem for the RS... so i guess i have no option as far as that is concerned. (?)
Heres the funny thing, now that i think about it, isnt calibrating at 125% (vs100%) cramming more into the same physical trigger throw? I think i just confused myself. HAHA!
06-17-2010, 08:57 AM
Tech Regular
06-17-2010, 09:05 AM
There should be no reason to go over 60 and cleary you've proven it with the statement that you blow up motors.
The reason why in 1/12 you can get over this figure without constant failure is that it's 1s. If you were to run those settings in 2s you'd blow motors much more frequently.
That "don't go over 60" statement has been made by me a few times, and I stick by it. THere should be no reason to go that high.
The reason why in 1/12 you can get over this figure without constant failure is that it's 1s. If you were to run those settings in 2s you'd blow motors much more frequently.
That "don't go over 60" statement has been made by me a few times, and I stick by it. THere should be no reason to go that high.