Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Well the motor is for 1/8 scale stuff (4030 1900 kv). So the rotor is a completely different style. It kind of reminds you of the old Novak 1/10 scale rotor before the current 'solid' style. It basically has 'threads' that wrap wround the magents that keep them from spinning out.
2nd or maybe 3rd time racing it, landed over a tripple and no more motor. Buggy was fine. At first I thought it was gear mesh .. anyway .. its a gonner.
It was never hotter than 160 ish.
I have an RMA but the lady at Tekin sounded as if I will have to buy a new rotor.
I'm not to tacticle in my comments usually , when I made a comment a while back at about all the problems with all the esc's, I just got a reply that they are selling more and thats why more people are having problems.
I like Tekin, and use 1/10 stuff also. But when the big guys up top are too busy putting out fires to help out, it is essential for people like you to help with general questions. Which once again, there really should be a baseline chart SOMEWHERE for most of these motors/esc for timing etc.
We will see how things go, but I choke as I say I am contemplating a switch to Castle stuff. Their 1/10 esc can run an 1/8 scale. Tekins RS units get fualty running a sedan....... Tekin should really look into SPC and require that their manufactures adhere to it.
Randy should give you some stuff. But they are probably too busy repairing items to take note.
Peace................
2nd or maybe 3rd time racing it, landed over a tripple and no more motor. Buggy was fine. At first I thought it was gear mesh .. anyway .. its a gonner.
It was never hotter than 160 ish.
I have an RMA but the lady at Tekin sounded as if I will have to buy a new rotor.
I'm not to tacticle in my comments usually , when I made a comment a while back at about all the problems with all the esc's, I just got a reply that they are selling more and thats why more people are having problems.
I like Tekin, and use 1/10 stuff also. But when the big guys up top are too busy putting out fires to help out, it is essential for people like you to help with general questions. Which once again, there really should be a baseline chart SOMEWHERE for most of these motors/esc for timing etc.
We will see how things go, but I choke as I say I am contemplating a switch to Castle stuff. Their 1/10 esc can run an 1/8 scale. Tekins RS units get fualty running a sedan....... Tekin should really look into SPC and require that their manufactures adhere to it.
Randy should give you some stuff. But they are probably too busy repairing items to take note.
Peace................
I had a strange thing happen this weekend while running stock on asphalt.
I have a Tekin RS and 17.5 Redline motor geared to 5.6 FDR. 5 deg. on the motor, 40 deg. boost and 10 turbo after .5 sec. (tried both ramp 1 and 2)
I would run the car and could see and feel the turbo kick in at about mid straight as I wanted but after 3 laps the turbo was no longer evident as if I forgot to shift into overdrive! (Used up the turbo on the warm up an none for the race) The motor temps were 110-120 no lights on the RS and would occur every time.
I am using a hard case "china special" 5000 2s 35c lipo and only using about 1200ma per race then recharged before going out again.
Has anyone had this happen? Do you think it's the battery just not putting out an adequate amp rate or? It doesn't seem like I am using anywhere near the max power but I'm not sure what kind of amperage a 17.5 will pull when running in turbo.
It' the pits not having that kick wonce you get used to it
I have a Tekin RS and 17.5 Redline motor geared to 5.6 FDR. 5 deg. on the motor, 40 deg. boost and 10 turbo after .5 sec. (tried both ramp 1 and 2)
I would run the car and could see and feel the turbo kick in at about mid straight as I wanted but after 3 laps the turbo was no longer evident as if I forgot to shift into overdrive! (Used up the turbo on the warm up an none for the race) The motor temps were 110-120 no lights on the RS and would occur every time.
I am using a hard case "china special" 5000 2s 35c lipo and only using about 1200ma per race then recharged before going out again.
Has anyone had this happen? Do you think it's the battery just not putting out an adequate amp rate or? It doesn't seem like I am using anywhere near the max power but I'm not sure what kind of amperage a 17.5 will pull when running in turbo.
It' the pits not having that kick wonce you get used to it
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
does the rotor have a aluminum spacer on it that's the new one
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
I had a strange thing happen this weekend while running stock on asphalt.
I have a Tekin RS and 17.5 Redline motor geared to 5.6 FDR. 5 deg. on the motor, 40 deg. boost and 10 turbo after .5 sec. (tried both ramp 1 and 2)
I would run the car and could see and feel the turbo kick in at about mid straight as I wanted but after 3 laps the turbo was no longer evident as if I forgot to shift into overdrive! (Used up the turbo on the warm up an none for the race) The motor temps were 110-120 no lights on the RS and would occur every time.
I am using a hard case "china special" 5000 2s 35c lipo and only using about 1200ma per race then recharged before going out again.
Has anyone had this happen? Do you think it's the battery just not putting out an adequate amp rate or? It doesn't seem like I am using anywhere near the max power but I'm not sure what kind of amperage a 17.5 will pull when running in turbo.
It' the pits not having that kick wonce you get used to it
I have a Tekin RS and 17.5 Redline motor geared to 5.6 FDR. 5 deg. on the motor, 40 deg. boost and 10 turbo after .5 sec. (tried both ramp 1 and 2)
I would run the car and could see and feel the turbo kick in at about mid straight as I wanted but after 3 laps the turbo was no longer evident as if I forgot to shift into overdrive! (Used up the turbo on the warm up an none for the race) The motor temps were 110-120 no lights on the RS and would occur every time.
I am using a hard case "china special" 5000 2s 35c lipo and only using about 1200ma per race then recharged before going out again.
Has anyone had this happen? Do you think it's the battery just not putting out an adequate amp rate or? It doesn't seem like I am using anywhere near the max power but I'm not sure what kind of amperage a 17.5 will pull when running in turbo.
It' the pits not having that kick wonce you get used to it
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
ok i am off to work so hold all your ? for a later time
Hey Thanks Smoke I will give that a try.
Would have never thought of that!!
Would have never thought of that!!
You will not have to pay for a replacement rotor. If it failed, we're sending replacements at no cost.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
i just had a thought,with more people want to use sensored mode for mod will we see a higher end rpm setting
Tech Addict
iTrader: (66)
tekin rs 17.5 system
Hi goose,
First question...Do you know what that "conservative setup" actually is...settings wise?
Best guess is...Considering that others set your RS, what is your Voltage Cutoff setting? Being set to lower than "2" could easily kill your 2S lipos by allowing extended duration runs resulting in too low of voltages (sub 6V) on your packs.
Bill
First question...Do you know what that "conservative setup" actually is...settings wise?
Best guess is...Considering that others set your RS, what is your Voltage Cutoff setting? Being set to lower than "2" could easily kill your 2S lipos by allowing extended duration runs resulting in too low of voltages (sub 6V) on your packs.
Bill
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
My cutoff is set at 3.2. The person that setup my rs has done so for countless others and is a local pro. I didn't think it could blow up two lipos but they both happened on the same day. My temps never reach over 160. I am just at a loss. Are there any recommendations that you can give me. I can't go back to my lrp spx at this point. Not after feeling the power of the tekin. I have been trying to get into electric but it is just too expensive when stuff like this happens.
When you say it blew up your lipos, did they catch fire or puff?
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
LOL Randy, we must've been typing at the same time. No need to apologize for the rant.
I know you are too busy to respond to all the threads with questions and complaints about Tekin. Thats why I think it is awesome that this 20Smoke guy is always willing to help.
I've raced a lot places, and it is rare that one person helps out as much as Smoke does here.
Its funny you mentioned Francis, a lot of other Losi sponsered drivers wont help that much even when asked.. :-(
There are times in manufacturing, that you don't forsee a problem until it bites you when your putting out fires all the time.
What bothers me the most, is recommending a product, like Tekin or Spektrum, and then the person has nothing but problems. J. A. has fed me so full of $%&# at HH, saying there aren't issues with Spektrum, when I knew they were being pulled off shelves and reprogrammed. There is no reason to BS people buying the products. I'm not saying Tekin is doing that though ; -)
Make a new part number and re-release it, or number every unit and offer a trade in system.
Thanks for the info on the rotor. ;-)
I know you are too busy to respond to all the threads with questions and complaints about Tekin. Thats why I think it is awesome that this 20Smoke guy is always willing to help.
I've raced a lot places, and it is rare that one person helps out as much as Smoke does here.
Its funny you mentioned Francis, a lot of other Losi sponsered drivers wont help that much even when asked.. :-(
There are times in manufacturing, that you don't forsee a problem until it bites you when your putting out fires all the time.
What bothers me the most, is recommending a product, like Tekin or Spektrum, and then the person has nothing but problems. J. A. has fed me so full of $%&# at HH, saying there aren't issues with Spektrum, when I knew they were being pulled off shelves and reprogrammed. There is no reason to BS people buying the products. I'm not saying Tekin is doing that though ; -)
Make a new part number and re-release it, or number every unit and offer a trade in system.
Thanks for the info on the rotor. ;-)
Last edited by Spdjunky; 05-05-2010 at 12:08 PM.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
Does the Hot-wire have issues when it's loaded on a Win7 platform?
Thx,
John
Thx,
John
nope. been running it on win7 since 203 was released
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
+1 ... Win7 and Hotwire = All Good