Tekin RS ESC sensored
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Side note: There were SEVERAL updates to most of the different Spektrum Rx's. I use the older micro Spektrum RX. So far (knock on wood), I have had no issues with them. My grey case ones worked great when they were all updated. All but one, are long gone now though.
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Pretty much I had ran the batteries before on a spx 13.5 combo before several times with no problem. I installed a tekin rs 17.5 system and had one day of practice on it before the day this happened. I charged and stored my lipos as I always do. A week went by I checked my lipos in the morning on Sunday in preparation for some club racing. I run the first qualifier and during warm up it was fine. In the middle of the race I noticed the car was really show and could not feel the boost kicking in. I didn't think anything of it. I pulled the car off and took off the shell on my car to realize that my thunderpower lipo had puffed up. It literally tore the sticker on the seem from puffing so much. I checked my temps when I pulled the car off and it was around 160. Went to run a second heat and in the warm up felt the same lack of power pulled it off to see my second lipo was also puffed up. I always monitor my lipos when charging and both were fine before I put them in my tc to run the qualifiers. I have thoroughly checked my charger and it charges just fine. Does not overcharge at all. Which is why I am at a loss when trying to figure out whats going on. The esc is the only other explanation.
I just read on another thread where people were complaining about SMC packs puffing up at random. Can't remember about Thunderpower. Usually they are good packs....
Double check all your connectors, make sure A goes to A etc. Make sure no solder is over lapping on the post also. Cap on the right posts?
If all that is okay, I would be tempted to send it in to Tekin to review. The only thing that could drain a lipo that fast is a short for the windings. Unless you have the proper equipement to check it under load
Any one else with some ideas?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (66)
Can I ask what charger you were using?
I just read on another thread where people were complaining about SMC packs puffing up at random. Can't remember about Thunderpower. Usually they are good packs....
Double check all your connectors, make sure A goes to A etc. Make sure no solder is over lapping on the post also. Cap on the right posts?
If all that is okay, I would be tempted to send it in to Tekin to review. The only thing that could drain a lipo that fast is a short for the windings. Unless you have the proper equipement to check it under load
Any one else with some ideas?
I just read on another thread where people were complaining about SMC packs puffing up at random. Can't remember about Thunderpower. Usually they are good packs....
Double check all your connectors, make sure A goes to A etc. Make sure no solder is over lapping on the post also. Cap on the right posts?
If all that is okay, I would be tempted to send it in to Tekin to review. The only thing that could drain a lipo that fast is a short for the windings. Unless you have the proper equipement to check it under load
Any one else with some ideas?
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
goose510,
I would tend to lean toward the ESC and heres why.
IF the cutoff was set right, the esc would've stopped running if the battery wasn't full. This eliminates the charger.
A puffed pack would mean an extremely high discharge rate IMO, not just a low pack that went below 6.4 volts.
I would tend to lean toward the ESC and heres why.
IF the cutoff was set right, the esc would've stopped running if the battery wasn't full. This eliminates the charger.
A puffed pack would mean an extremely high discharge rate IMO, not just a low pack that went below 6.4 volts.
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Goose, were you running a balancer with the Onyx 230?
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Yeah I was using a friends. I forget the brand. Thats what a few folks were telling me at my local track. They said there may be a possible malfunction on the part of the esc or the motor. Before the motor would not be an issue but with the power these Tekins dish out the 17.5 almost runs like mod class. I guess I have to send it in and see what the folks at Tekin have to say. I just figure the Tekin system is pulling to much power and puffing up the lipos.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
Randy- I saw the approved ROAR list for the Sportsman ESC for the Nats.
The Tekin RS is on the list as long as you have the v208 software. When will this software version be released.
Thx,
John
The Tekin RS is on the list as long as you have the v208 software. When will this software version be released.
Thx,
John
My cutoff is set at 3.2. The person that setup my rs has done so for countless others and is a local pro. I didn't think it could blow up two lipos but they both happened on the same day. My temps never reach over 160. I am just at a loss. Are there any recommendations that you can give me. I can't go back to my lrp spx at this point. Not after feeling the power of the tekin. I have been trying to get into electric but it is just too expensive when stuff like this happens.
I do not understand your "3.2" response. The available settings for Voltage Cutoff are:
1 = None (LED 1 ON)
2 = 6 volts (LED 1-2 ON)
3 = 9 volts (LED 1-3 ON)
4 = Custom (LED 1-4 ON)
Accordingly, I use "1" for single cell pan cars and "2" for two cell TC racing. With that "1" setting, I cannot run the car for too long because there is effectively no voltage cutoff with that setting. With the "2" setting, the car will shutdown after you reach 6V (maybe 10-12 minutes); but, that long of a extended run can overheat your motor under certain conditions. Therefore, I never do runs lasting more than a minute or two beyond a normal timed race (*6 min for my TC/WGT classes).
Can that "pro" check the settings he originally used on your RS to make sure that the Voltage Cutoff is truly set properly?
Hopefully, no one else has posted the above. I am behind a couple pages of posts...LOL
Bill
goose,
I do not understand your "3.2" response. The available settings for Voltage Cutoff are:
1 = None (LED 1 ON)
2 = 6 volts (LED 1-2 ON)
3 = 9 volts (LED 1-3 ON)
4 = Custom (LED 1-4 ON)
Accordingly, I use "1" for single cell pan cars and "2" for two cell TC racing. With that "1" setting, I cannot run the car for too long because there is effectively no voltage cutoff with that setting. With the "2" setting, the car will shutdown after you reach 6V (maybe 10-12 minutes); but, that long of a extended run can overheat your motor under certain conditions. Therefore, I never do runs lasting more than a minute or two beyond a normal timed race (*6 min for my TC/WGT classes).
Can that "pro" check the settings he originally used on your RS to make sure that the Voltage Cutoff is truly set properly?
Hopefully, no one else has posted the above. I am behind a couple pages of posts...LOL
Bill
I do not understand your "3.2" response. The available settings for Voltage Cutoff are:
1 = None (LED 1 ON)
2 = 6 volts (LED 1-2 ON)
3 = 9 volts (LED 1-3 ON)
4 = Custom (LED 1-4 ON)
Accordingly, I use "1" for single cell pan cars and "2" for two cell TC racing. With that "1" setting, I cannot run the car for too long because there is effectively no voltage cutoff with that setting. With the "2" setting, the car will shutdown after you reach 6V (maybe 10-12 minutes); but, that long of a extended run can overheat your motor under certain conditions. Therefore, I never do runs lasting more than a minute or two beyond a normal timed race (*6 min for my TC/WGT classes).
Can that "pro" check the settings he originally used on your RS to make sure that the Voltage Cutoff is truly set properly?
Hopefully, no one else has posted the above. I am behind a couple pages of posts...LOL
Bill
Is 208 just going to have all timing advances disabled and the blinking LED for quick id?
That's it!
If your lipo cutoff is truly set to 3.2 in the numerical field above the slider (custom setting) then there's the problem. When Bill referred to a setting of "2" that is on the slider, which means 2-cell, which is 6.0V. A custom setting of 3.2 would be a "conservative" choice only for someone running 1-cell lipo.
BINGO! I did not know the custom settings aspect.
goose,
That is your problem!
I highly suggest that you find someone else to set your ESC properly.
Unfortunately, not a lot a drivers are actually "pros" at RS ESCs. Seeking out an "advanced tuner" would be appropriate if one exists in your area. In the SF Bay Area, I was fortunate enough to find the right pro that helped me with my initial WGT ESC setup. theisgroup (Yang) is also a great source for single cell applications. From that experience, I was able to figure out my own RS setup for TC (two cell).
Bill
Last edited by Still Bill; 05-05-2010 at 10:52 PM.
OK pakk,
Kudos to you too. See ya at da track.
Bill
Kudos to you too. See ya at da track.
Bill
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2.03 tomorrow for a b44 6.5 on a high bite track 115 foot straight. Any reccomendations?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (66)
reenmachine,
BINGO! I did not know the custom settings aspect.
goose,
That is your problem!
I highly suggest that you find someone else to set your ESC properly.
Unfortunately, not a lot a drivers are actually "pros" at RS ESCs. Seeking out an "advanced tuner" would be appropriate if one exists in your area. In the SF Bay Area, I was fortunate enough to find the right pro that helped me with my initial WGT ESC setup. theisgroup (Yang) is also a great source for single cell applications. From that experience, I was able to figure out my own RS setup for TC (two cell).
Bill
BINGO! I did not know the custom settings aspect.
goose,
That is your problem!
I highly suggest that you find someone else to set your ESC properly.
Unfortunately, not a lot a drivers are actually "pros" at RS ESCs. Seeking out an "advanced tuner" would be appropriate if one exists in your area. In the SF Bay Area, I was fortunate enough to find the right pro that helped me with my initial WGT ESC setup. theisgroup (Yang) is also a great source for single cell applications. From that experience, I was able to figure out my own RS setup for TC (two cell).
Bill
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