Tekin RS ESC sensored
http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf
To activate, turn the
speed control on, then press/hold INC button and then press/hold
MODE button simultaneously for 3 seconds. After 3 seconds the
LEDs will ramp up in sets of three. NOTE: Activating the self-test
mode also resets all the radio calibration settings to their default
To activate, turn the
speed control on, then press/hold INC button and then press/hold
MODE button simultaneously for 3 seconds. After 3 seconds the
LEDs will ramp up in sets of three. NOTE: Activating the self-test
mode also resets all the radio calibration settings to their default
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (33)
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (33)
http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf
To activate, turn the
speed control on, then press/hold INC button and then press/hold
MODE button simultaneously for 3 seconds. After 3 seconds the
LEDs will ramp up in sets of three. NOTE: Activating the self-test
mode also resets all the radio calibration settings to their default
To activate, turn the
speed control on, then press/hold INC button and then press/hold
MODE button simultaneously for 3 seconds. After 3 seconds the
LEDs will ramp up in sets of three. NOTE: Activating the self-test
mode also resets all the radio calibration settings to their default
First off don't use the case,caps or the solder posts to find the esc temps. We put a temp monitor in the esc on purpose. Simply leave the car in nuetral and watch to see how man led's light up when it cycles over to it.
If you're car is cogging make sure you've got A to A, B to B, C to C,etc.
You can also use the RS's sensor checker feature as well. Turn on the car, rotate the motor/drivetrain by hand while watching the last 3 led's. They will cycle on/off while rotating the drivetrain/motor. IF you get any of them to not turn on OR none at all something is wrong with either the sensor harness or the motor. Try a different motor to verify the issue. The abc motor wires DO NOT need to be attached to the motor for this test, just the sensor wire.
If you're car is cogging make sure you've got A to A, B to B, C to C,etc.
You can also use the RS's sensor checker feature as well. Turn on the car, rotate the motor/drivetrain by hand while watching the last 3 led's. They will cycle on/off while rotating the drivetrain/motor. IF you get any of them to not turn on OR none at all something is wrong with either the sensor harness or the motor. Try a different motor to verify the issue. The abc motor wires DO NOT need to be attached to the motor for this test, just the sensor wire.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Tech Regular
I've tried several times to run Mod TC with an RS Pro and can't get past 4 min. without a thermal shutdown. I've copied Jason Moberly's setup exactly with an Orion 4.5T motor.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Randy - I've seen a few people say not to use heat shrink on the posts "because they're the heat sink". Is this true? I don't see any mention of this in the owners manual and haven't seen anyone from Tekin post anything like this.
I've tried several times to run Mod TC with an RS Pro and can't get past 4 min. without a thermal shutdown. I've copied Jason Moberly's setup exactly with an Orion 4.5T motor.
I've tried several times to run Mod TC with an RS Pro and can't get past 4 min. without a thermal shutdown. I've copied Jason Moberly's setup exactly with an Orion 4.5T motor.
If so, then you should be running less gear and less boost than the Tekin Redline Moberly setup.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (8)
Whats the difference between the RS and the RSPRO other than the $50? Also is the motor that comes with the 17.5 System any good?
PRO has more fets and can handle lower turn motors. Unless you plan to run mod, save your $50 and just get the RS.
Randy - I've seen a few people say not to use heat shrink on the posts "because they're the heat sink". Is this true? I don't see any mention of this in the owners manual and haven't seen anyone from Tekin post anything like this.
I've tried several times to run Mod TC with an RS Pro and can't get past 4 min. without a thermal shutdown. I've copied Jason Moberly's setup exactly with an Orion 4.5T motor.
I've tried several times to run Mod TC with an RS Pro and can't get past 4 min. without a thermal shutdown. I've copied Jason Moberly's setup exactly with an Orion 4.5T motor.
I'm sure Randy will confirm.
Trev
Tech Initiate
Tech Fanatic
I have an RS pro which earlier tonight I up-graded from 203 too 208 software.
This went OK and I added my settings from 203.
I run a GM 13.5 motor out of interest.
When I turn the esc on, lights 123 are lit in neutral and lights 456 are light when i engage throttle. With throttle on, I have no drive?
I was concerned that it was cogging so with the throttle on, I pushed my car forward and to my suprise, I got drive.
Can anyone help me with this? I have ma big meeting on Sunday and no spare speedo.
This went OK and I added my settings from 203.
I run a GM 13.5 motor out of interest.
When I turn the esc on, lights 123 are lit in neutral and lights 456 are light when i engage throttle. With throttle on, I have no drive?
I was concerned that it was cogging so with the throttle on, I pushed my car forward and to my suprise, I got drive.
Can anyone help me with this? I have ma big meeting on Sunday and no spare speedo.
Your light combination is the one you usually get after updating the ESC (to 208 in this case) and not re-calibrating the radio. Try that.
Also, if the ESC is not connected to a motor, it will NOT chime when you calibrate the radio/ESC. That doesn't mean it hasn't calibrated, it means it hasn't chimed!
For clarity, you download the new software, then attach HotWire and update your ESC, then you re-calibrate your radio to the ESC using the standard procedure in the instructions. After that, you can alter the settings using the HotWire and the GUI. If you do any of this out of order, the speedo just gets confused, and some of the things people have reported on here will happen. How do I know this? ...
HTH
Tech Regular
Have you re-calibrated your radio to the ESC? I see a lot of posts on here talking about problems with converting to 208, but no replies reminding people that you MUST re-calibrate your radio to the ESC after a software upgrade.
Your light combination is the one you usually get after updating the ESC (to 208 in this case) and not re-calibrating the radio. Try that.
Also, if the ESC is not connected to a motor, it will NOT chime when you calibrate the radio/ESC. That doesn't mean it hasn't calibrated, it means it hasn't chimed!
For clarity, you download the new software, then attach HotWire and update your ESC, then you re-calibrate your radio to the ESC using the standard procedure in the instructions. After that, you can alter the settings using the HotWire and the GUI. If you do any of this out of order, the speedo just gets confused, and some of the things people have reported on here will happen. How do I know this? ...
HTH
Your light combination is the one you usually get after updating the ESC (to 208 in this case) and not re-calibrating the radio. Try that.
Also, if the ESC is not connected to a motor, it will NOT chime when you calibrate the radio/ESC. That doesn't mean it hasn't calibrated, it means it hasn't chimed!
For clarity, you download the new software, then attach HotWire and update your ESC, then you re-calibrate your radio to the ESC using the standard procedure in the instructions. After that, you can alter the settings using the HotWire and the GUI. If you do any of this out of order, the speedo just gets confused, and some of the things people have reported on here will happen. How do I know this? ...
HTH
Thank you, I'm sure i didn't re-calibrate after the up-grade so am hoping this is the answer.
regards
richard.
Last season, we were running open ESC settings. Rubber tire, Duo 1 17.5, motor timing middle hole. V2.03 settings were:
Timing Boost 50
Turbo 10
Turbo Delay 0.0
Turbo Ramp 3.0
Start RPM 5383
End RPM 18014
FDR 6.56
This season, we're running ROAR Sportsman Spec profile (no ESC timing, no boost, no turbo). Carpet track is 40x90 feet.
Any idea what FDR I should start at with the reduced timing profile?
Timing Boost 50
Turbo 10
Turbo Delay 0.0
Turbo Ramp 3.0
Start RPM 5383
End RPM 18014
FDR 6.56
This season, we're running ROAR Sportsman Spec profile (no ESC timing, no boost, no turbo). Carpet track is 40x90 feet.
Any idea what FDR I should start at with the reduced timing profile?
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
Yes it's true, and it has been posted (by users AND tekin guys) 1000 times plus on this thread alone. The solder posts are the ESC's heat sink... don't put any shrink wrap anywhere near them or you risk premature thermal.