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Old 08-20-2010, 05:02 PM   #16666
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http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf
To activate, turn the
speed control on, then press/hold INC button and then press/hold
MODE button simultaneously for 3 seconds. After 3 seconds the
LEDs will ramp up in sets of three. NOTE: Activating the self-test
mode also resets all the radio calibration settings to their default
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Old 08-20-2010, 05:08 PM   #16667
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Originally Posted by part-time racer View Post
OK, what is the method for doing a factory re-set?
Turn the esc on, and then hold both buttons down for 3 seconds,,,, the lights should ramp up three times.
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Old 08-20-2010, 05:10 PM   #16668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf
To activate, turn the
speed control on, then press/hold INC button and then press/hold
MODE button simultaneously for 3 seconds. After 3 seconds the
LEDs will ramp up in sets of three. NOTE: Activating the self-test
mode also resets all the radio calibration settings to their default
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it read.
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:26 PM   #16669
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First off don't use the case,caps or the solder posts to find the esc temps. We put a temp monitor in the esc on purpose. Simply leave the car in nuetral and watch to see how man led's light up when it cycles over to it.

If you're car is cogging make sure you've got A to A, B to B, C to C,etc.
You can also use the RS's sensor checker feature as well. Turn on the car, rotate the motor/drivetrain by hand while watching the last 3 led's. They will cycle on/off while rotating the drivetrain/motor. IF you get any of them to not turn on OR none at all something is wrong with either the sensor harness or the motor. Try a different motor to verify the issue. The abc motor wires DO NOT need to be attached to the motor for this test, just the sensor wire.
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:52 PM   #16670
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You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it read.
You can try to teach your kids how to respect others, but sometimes it just doesnt work...
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Old 08-20-2010, 08:53 PM   #16671
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
... Do you have a fan blowing across your solder posts?
Do you have any heat shrink on your solder posts?
Randy - I've seen a few people say not to use heat shrink on the posts "because they're the heat sink". Is this true? I don't see any mention of this in the owners manual and haven't seen anyone from Tekin post anything like this.

I've tried several times to run Mod TC with an RS Pro and can't get past 4 min. without a thermal shutdown. I've copied Jason Moberly's setup exactly with an Orion 4.5T motor.
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:28 PM   #16672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
Randy - I've seen a few people say not to use heat shrink on the posts "because they're the heat sink". Is this true? I don't see any mention of this in the owners manual and haven't seen anyone from Tekin post anything like this.

I've tried several times to run Mod TC with an RS Pro and can't get past 4 min. without a thermal shutdown. I've copied Jason Moberly's setup exactly with an Orion 4.5T motor.
My guess is that the Orion Motors have quite a bit more timing than Tekin.
If so, then you should be running less gear and less boost than the Tekin Redline Moberly setup.
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Old 08-20-2010, 10:56 PM   #16673
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Whats the difference between the RS and the RSPRO other than the $50? Also is the motor that comes with the 17.5 System any good?
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Old 08-20-2010, 10:57 PM   #16674
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PRO has more fets and can handle lower turn motors. Unless you plan to run mod, save your $50 and just get the RS.
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:10 AM   #16675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
Randy - I've seen a few people say not to use heat shrink on the posts "because they're the heat sink". Is this true? I don't see any mention of this in the owners manual and haven't seen anyone from Tekin post anything like this.

I've tried several times to run Mod TC with an RS Pro and can't get past 4 min. without a thermal shutdown. I've copied Jason Moberly's setup exactly with an Orion 4.5T motor.
This is definitely true, and Randy has said so several times in this thread himself. You should also never cut the posts down for the same reason.

I'm sure Randy will confirm.

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Old 08-21-2010, 04:39 AM   #16676
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Originally Posted by Finken View Post
If its a failiure to the motor or what i dont know, i just now i will throw the Novaks as long as i can into the woods haha
We have a beaver called Børre in the water behind the pit at the track, he often get our faulty equipment
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Old 08-21-2010, 04:51 AM   #16677
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Originally Posted by part-time racer View Post
I have an RS pro which earlier tonight I up-graded from 203 too 208 software.
This went OK and I added my settings from 203.
I run a GM 13.5 motor out of interest.

When I turn the esc on, lights 123 are lit in neutral and lights 456 are light when i engage throttle. With throttle on, I have no drive?

I was concerned that it was cogging so with the throttle on, I pushed my car forward and to my suprise, I got drive.

Can anyone help me with this? I have ma big meeting on Sunday and no spare speedo.
Have you re-calibrated your radio to the ESC? I see a lot of posts on here talking about problems with converting to 208, but no replies reminding people that you MUST re-calibrate your radio to the ESC after a software upgrade.

Your light combination is the one you usually get after updating the ESC (to 208 in this case) and not re-calibrating the radio. Try that.

Also, if the ESC is not connected to a motor, it will NOT chime when you calibrate the radio/ESC. That doesn't mean it hasn't calibrated, it means it hasn't chimed!

For clarity, you download the new software, then attach HotWire and update your ESC, then you re-calibrate your radio to the ESC using the standard procedure in the instructions. After that, you can alter the settings using the HotWire and the GUI. If you do any of this out of order, the speedo just gets confused, and some of the things people have reported on here will happen. How do I know this? ...

HTH
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:16 AM   #16678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Have you re-calibrated your radio to the ESC? I see a lot of posts on here talking about problems with converting to 208, but no replies reminding people that you MUST re-calibrate your radio to the ESC after a software upgrade.

Your light combination is the one you usually get after updating the ESC (to 208 in this case) and not re-calibrating the radio. Try that.

Also, if the ESC is not connected to a motor, it will NOT chime when you calibrate the radio/ESC. That doesn't mean it hasn't calibrated, it means it hasn't chimed!

For clarity, you download the new software, then attach HotWire and update your ESC, then you re-calibrate your radio to the ESC using the standard procedure in the instructions. After that, you can alter the settings using the HotWire and the GUI. If you do any of this out of order, the speedo just gets confused, and some of the things people have reported on here will happen. How do I know this? ...

HTH

Thank you, I'm sure i didn't re-calibrate after the up-grade so am hoping this is the answer.

regards
richard.
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Old 08-21-2010, 07:58 PM   #16679
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Last season, we were running open ESC settings. Rubber tire, Duo 1 17.5, motor timing middle hole. V2.03 settings were:

Timing Boost 50
Turbo 10
Turbo Delay 0.0
Turbo Ramp 3.0
Start RPM 5383
End RPM 18014
FDR 6.56

This season, we're running ROAR Sportsman Spec profile (no ESC timing, no boost, no turbo). Carpet track is 40x90 feet.

Any idea what FDR I should start at with the reduced timing profile?
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Old 08-21-2010, 08:05 PM   #16680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
Randy - I've seen a few people say not to use heat shrink on the posts "because they're the heat sink". Is this true? I don't see any mention of this in the owners manual and haven't seen anyone from Tekin post anything like this.
.
Yes it's true, and it has been posted (by users AND tekin guys) 1000 times plus on this thread alone. The solder posts are the ESC's heat sink... don't put any shrink wrap anywhere near them or you risk premature thermal.
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