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Old 12-10-2008, 08:39 PM   #1561
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i am trying to figure out if there will be any people there running the e4 or will it be just me? see what i am gonna have to do for parts since if i break there i will have a tough time rigging something. wease any idea if anyone will be there running the car? thanks guys
Weezy you nub, thats the magic car it'll fix itself. You still owe me for the T1 parts I gave you to save your arse this last weekend.
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:13 AM   #1562
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Hi Milton this is Dave from Strictly/Underground. The E4 is a good car set up right out of the box. What tires are you using at the Track? CS27 or Sorex 28 work well with Jack the Gripper. The 1.4 stock springs are a bit soft. I switched to the 1.6 in front and 1.4 at the rear. All the shocks have 40wt oil in them. I also put a diff in the front.

The car handles nice at the Track and I was turning consistant 13 second laps with my 13.5 set-up. Do you have the Tekin Hotwire? I think the new software 1.89 is out and you can download it. Set it on sensored only and raise the boost up to 80 to start. I think you'll like the response. If you don't have a hotwire then try to go there when Dave Arnold is there on Saturday.
Hello Dave. I'm using Janco blue, And I'm using the white can that Strictly sells. I have it stock for now. I do have Teken Hotwire software. Is there alot of upgrades for the E4??
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Old 12-11-2008, 09:17 AM   #1563
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Hello Dave. I'm using Janco blue, And I'm using the white can that Strictly sells. I have it stock for now. I do have Teken Hotwire software. Is there alot of upgrades for the E4??
The beauty of a top of the line car is that it doesn't really need any upgrades to perform well. The only upgrades would be to fine tune the car such as springs, diffs, sway-bars, shock pistons and other items of that nature. The other area you may upgrade is for durability by getting the alloy pulleys and stronger belts. Other than that there really isn't any reason to upgrade.

I found that the car out of the box, with the appropriate tires and shock oil, is about 90% dialed just by setting it up as indicated in the manual. The last 10% is more or less track dependent.

If you are running stock, 17.5 then the 1.89 version would give you the timing boost you want.
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Old 12-11-2008, 10:08 AM   #1564
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The beauty of a top of the line car is that it doesn't really need any upgrades to perform well. The only upgrades would be to fine tune the car such as springs, diffs, sway-bars, shock pistons and other items of that nature. The other area you may upgrade is for durability by getting the alloy pulleys and stronger belts. Other than that there really isn't any reason to upgrade.

I found that the car out of the box, with the appropriate tires and shock oil, is about 90% dialed just by setting it up as indicated in the manual. The last 10% is more or less track dependent.

If you are running stock, 17.5 then the 1.89 version would give you the timing boost you want.

Dave
I just want the Kfactory web site and notice alot opitions parts for the E4. What type of Diff do you recommed? What do you think about the FRONT ONE WAY/SLOID ALXE SET? And I have the 17.5 Teken combo.
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Old 12-11-2008, 11:00 AM   #1565
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Dave
I just want the Kfactory web site and notice alot opitions parts for the E4. What type of Diff do you recommed? What do you think about the FRONT ONE WAY/SLOID ALXE SET? And I have the 17.5 Teken combo.
I take back what I said earlier, I have the K-Factory front steering knuckles. With the weight of Lipos you can get lots of alloy goodies and not worry about being too fat. The 1.5 rear hubs are a good tuning tool as are the front C-Hubs in different degrees.

I have the one-way/spool which I used in 13.5 and mod on the asphalt. I swithed to the E4 front ball diff (35 tooth) for indoor carpet. I feel that a diff, especially in stock/17.5, gives better control and power in the turns where the track is tighter and more technical. The one-way is also good on a carpet track but is better if the track is more sweeping. The Track is about 50/50 so you could go either with a diff or the one-way, however, you lose front wheel braking with the one-way.
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Old 12-11-2008, 11:37 AM   #1566
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Can I buy the products direct from KFactory?
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Old 12-11-2008, 11:53 AM   #1567
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Can I buy the products direct from KFactory?
This is the exclusive distributor for Team Magic: http://www.wolfhobbies.com/ and you can buy the K-Factory from them.

You can also search for on-line stores in Hong Kong or Taiwan for K-Factory parts.

WARNING!!!!-- some of the K-Factory hop-ups are for the E4 and not the E4RS/FS so be careful if you order. Example is the center brace, it is for the original E4 that goes UNDER the top plate.
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:43 PM   #1568
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This is the exclusive distributor for Team Magic: http://www.wolfhobbies.com/ and you can buy the K-Factory from them.

You can also search for on-line stores in Hong Kong or Taiwan for K-Factory parts.

WARNING!!!!-- some of the K-Factory hop-ups are for the E4 and not the E4RS/FS so be careful if you order. Example is the center brace, it is for the original E4 that goes UNDER the top plate.
Are you going to to THR TRACK on the 20th??
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:46 PM   #1569
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Are you going to to THR TRACK on the 20th??
I plan to. Should be there about 11:00 - 11:30.
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:06 PM   #1570
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hey guys, how do you rebuild the shocks on e4? i replace the oil in it and i can't put the cap back, i can't tightened it up. tried to losen up some oil and still won't get tight. seems like the tread wont bite. any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance.
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:42 PM   #1571
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hey guys, how do you rebuild the shocks on e4? i replace the oil in it and i can't put the cap back, i can't tightened it up. tried to losen up some oil and still won't get tight. seems like the tread wont bite. any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance.
Is the rubber bladder missing?

When I check oil I fill it. Work out the bubbles. Put the bladder back in. Slide the cap back over the top. Turn the cap in the reverse direction while pushing down until I hear the threads click against each other. Then slowly tighten the cap to make sure its not cross threading. If you cross threaded the cap, you'll need a new one. Might get an extra set of bladders and O rings while you're at it.
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Old 12-11-2008, 09:10 PM   #1572
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i'll give it a shot... thank you.
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:46 AM   #1573
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Default K Factory springs

Hey guys,
I'll be running my E4FS C1 for the first time very soon but I wanted to order one of the K Factory spring sets. Problem is that I cant find any information on which set I should get.
I suppose that each set is best for carpet vs pavement vs nitro and electric but nowhere does it suggest which is recommended for which.
Sure nitro and carpet is likely to need the stiffer set but I guess what I'm asking is, what's everybody running for the E4?

Thanks
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:55 AM   #1574
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E4 springs

1.2mm =10lbs
1.3mm=13lbs
1.4mm=17lbs
1.5mm=20lbs
1.6mm=26lbs
1.7mm=31lbs
1.8mm=41lbs
1.9mm=51lbs
Try these. I run the 1.2mms in back and the 1.6mm in front.
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Old 12-12-2008, 12:13 PM   #1575
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Hey guys,
I'll be running my E4FS C1 for the first time very soon but I wanted to order one of the K Factory spring sets. Problem is that I cant find any information on which set I should get.
I suppose that each set is best for carpet vs pavement vs nitro and electric but nowhere does it suggest which is recommended for which.
Sure nitro and carpet is likely to need the stiffer set but I guess what I'm asking is, what's everybody running for the E4?

Thanks
You just need to know what lbs rating that you are going to use...but 1st, let us know you are running it on rubber or on foam? Then outdoor or indoor carpet...? Then MOD or Stock or what motor speed....

For rubber tires, indoor carpet, stock 13.5 or 17.5 motor...I use 14lbs rear and 16 fronts (AE, Xray, Schumacher...your choice). Usually I just need the front 1 step harder then the rear or sometimes both the same and let the setup of the car to balance the whole thing.

Last edited by Solara; 12-12-2008 at 12:30 PM.
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