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Old 08-04-2009, 04:08 AM   #2311
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usvta rules brian stipulate 4.2:1 as lowest FDR when using a 21.5/lipo combination (which most all do since the other formats are 4cell). that is with a novak 21.5 only. now ROAR crashed the party and says in their rules that any 21.5 is permitted since they supposedly cant marry their rules to 1 brand (i thought they loved bob ha).

R
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Old 08-04-2009, 06:20 AM   #2312
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usvta rules brian stipulate 4.2:1 as lowest FDR when using a 21.5/lipo combination (which most all do since the other formats are 4cell). that is with a novak 21.5 only. now ROAR crashed the party and says in their rules that any 21.5 is permitted since they supposedly cant marry their rules to 1 brand (i thought they loved bob ha).

R
Thanks Ryan. I think in the long term I will build a VTA car sometime after Xmas or so. Yeah thought ROAR loved Novak but nice to see it open but I guess I would run Novak in VTA because I think that is what most tracks run.
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:00 AM   #2313
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I cleaned the bearings while they were in the car ...im lazy i know

AE springs blue/front green/rear ...tightened front diff down...moved rear shocks in one hole on tower.....stock shock oil 30wt?=300.... still messing with ride height its at 8-9mm right know ..but its handling so good...104spur 51pinion largest combo that will fit, 21.5 havok BL system,jr8800s servo,smc 24c 2s 4100mah lipo and i have a 5200mah for tracks that allow it ..esc fitts snug on chassis air vent and u have to remove a small brace to get motor in, very easy though ...had to trim foam bumper to fit the 'cuda body ...my belts feel fine just tightened the middle belt tensioner slightly to keep it from jumping teeth
That looks GOOOODDDD!
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:07 AM   #2314
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Looks great. If I do a VTA car I would go with the Cuda body as well. I think that is the main reason why I want to do a VTA car down the road.

I'm not up much on the VTA rules but do they make you run a certain overall gearing? I thought I saw that 4.21 is the ratio for this class but not 100% on that.
The maximum recommended gear is 4.2 final ratio.
I'm running more like 4.8 final. If you read the rules carefully is merely suggests a range that you are not supposed to exceed. Using an SPX or Tekin RS with timing boost is the trick, I gear for punch and don't worry much about top speed, and we have a 100 foot straightaway. The real trick is setting up for those tires....

Oh and the Camaro is the body of choice.
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:20 AM   #2315
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The maximum recommended gear is 4.2 final ratio.
I'm running more like 4.8 final. If you read the rules carefully is merely suggests a range that you are not supposed to exceed. Using an SPX or Tekin RS with timing boost is the trick, I gear for punch and don't worry much about top speed, and we have a 100 foot straightaway. The real trick is setting up for those tires....

Oh and the Camaro is the body of choice.
No Hemi Cuda!!!!!!! I want maximum muscle from my muscle car. My dad had a 1967 Plymouth Hemi GTX. the 426 motor was rated at 425hp but my dads stock on the dyno with a good tune up was right at 500hp. Think car companies where trying to deceive the insurance companies a little bit.
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:43 AM   #2316
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No Hemi Cuda!!!!!!! I want maximum muscle from my muscle car. My dad had a 1967 Plymouth Hemi GTX. the 426 motor was rated at 425hp but my dads stock on the dyno with a good tune up was right at 500hp. Think car companies where trying to deceive the insurance companies a little bit.
One version of that Hemi in the Superbird and Daytona had almost 800hp in there . Pretty frickin' amazing huh !?
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:15 AM   #2317
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One version of that Hemi in the Superbird and Daytona had almost 800hp in there . Pretty frickin' amazing huh !?
Very scary. Back in the mid 60's to real early 70's is when they built some killer muscle cars. I know my dad wishes he still had his Hemi thats for sure.

How does your E4 do running the VTA class?
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:37 PM   #2318
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NP, Just trying to help. I have the E4JS and it is a pretty decent car for the $. I think I saw Marcos post that part number up one time, but personally... I haven't tried that belt yet.
The belt is a perfect fit but running short in supply. I picked up a couple of belts and am planning on putting one of my E4JS cars back together for VTA. It really was the best handling car on the track. The only mod I made orginally was to take the nubs off the rear control arms to slide them a touch forward, about 3 mm. I have to pick up a full set of bearings and prep them properly for this winter.
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Old 08-04-2009, 03:01 PM   #2319
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Very scary. Back in the mid 60's to real early 70's is when they built some killer muscle cars. I know my dad wishes he still had his Hemi thats for sure.

How does your E4 do running the VTA class?
I had to grind off the front of the lower control arm to get the wheelbase to fit the Camaro and shim it in the rear. Made clearance for the sway bar links as they crash in to the lowers . I like the way it drove yes but I didn't spend enough time setting it up as I should have . I was not slow by any means. seeing how I now have 3 E4's I will make it a goal to have it tweaked in for VTA.
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Old 08-04-2009, 06:39 PM   #2320
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i have a problem with the side belt skipping. i have the tensioner right down. it doesnt skip then but wow what a stiff driveline. i was thinking about getting a wide belt that ive seen as a new option part. anyone try these??
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:20 PM   #2321
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i have a problem with the side belt skipping. i have the tensioner right down. it doesnt skip then but wow what a stiff driveline. i was thinking about getting a wide belt that ive seen as a new option part. anyone try these??

eddie -you may have worn a couple of teeth on the belt?


might put ceramics in drive train... anybody else try it?
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:48 PM   #2322
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i have a problem with the side belt skipping. i have the tensioner right down. it doesnt skip then but wow what a stiff driveline. i was thinking about getting a wide belt that ive seen as a new option part. anyone try these??
Are you absolutely sure the side belt is skipping ?
I had thought one of mine was skipping to but it turned out that the rear diff was making a funny noise and slipping. If you make sure its not that and all of your pulley teeth are clean it may just be time for a new belt. Try either the new one from Wolf Hobbies or the HPI #748. The Diff makes king of a chirp noise when it skips. The belt tends to be more of a bump. Does this happen while driving ? Can you really hear it while on the track? Or are you loading it up in your hand? Curious....
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:54 PM   #2323
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eddie -you may have worn a couple of teeth on the belt?


might put ceramics in drive train... anybody else try it?
I didn't use ceramics but I did soak them all in Denatured Alcohol then re-oiled them with Royal Oil. That helped a lot . But the biggest improvement was shimming up the mid-block about 1mm to loosen the front belt. Mine was so tight you could play a tune on it. LOL No seriously.... it was tizite!
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:55 AM   #2324
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Hey John are you coming down to the ROAR Nationals at Frederick in October? If so I will more than likely catch you their. I for this Nationals I'm lucky it is so close as I'm still 85 miles or so away.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:15 AM   #2325
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Hey John are you coming down to the ROAR Nationals at Frederick in October? If so I will more than likely catch you their. I for this Nationals I'm lucky it is so close as I'm still 85 miles or so away.
I hadn't thought about it but anythings a possibility.
I've not been traveling much lately BUT...
I hope all my updating is done before then.
Indoor ? Paved ? got any pics ?
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