Well,we'll see when i'll get the car.After all it's not longer than my GM or my Orion (actualy is 1 mm shorter)

I would say try it if you have it lying arround.
From the looks of it you will have some room to play with the gears.
On one of my cars(yes i have more then 1 TM ) i used the dremel to cut some material on the side tensioner and and the left back bulkhead to give the GM motor some room.
If i use the LRP X11 motor i won't have to do that as it got the tapered back side like the motor in your picture.
If it isn't your motor but you know the brand,go to your local hobby store and take the car with you and try it.
That is the best way to be sure it will fit and you got enough room to sort out the gearing you want.

cheers Roy

Pro10noob your car looks great.

Isaac time for some new pics of your ride now.

Look since I can't run touring right now I need to get my fix from checking out others E4 cars.

How do you guys get clearance using a big lipo packs. I got the original E4 and man you have to shim the upper deck at least 5mm or more to clear the batteries. I literally run it one time running mod I strip the front belt and off the shelf she goes it been like 1 1/2 year since last time I race it. I love the car probably the most stable car I have ever driven but with the big lipo pack we are using it just won't fit. Any advice or hop up I can get so I don't have shim the car like crazy just to fit a big lipo packs.

I only used 2mm shims to fit batteries. Something else you may want to get buffalobill989 are some beefier body posts.

Thanks Wyd for the compliment
This one is my indoor car and i just wanted to make it more,well be different then the rest of the TM drivers
My other car has the alloy parts also but then in the black or alloy color.

regards Roy

Awesome

My new drifter!

Could be used wider belts (like 3.5mm) on the RS?The new wider belts for the FS are 3.5mm?

And another one:Alloy pulleys are only 17T or there are also 18T?

I had a good run with the E4JS last Saturday. Finally got the steering drift issue fixed. I kept thinking that it was steering slop that caused it and even after shimming everthing on the front end it still wasn't fixed. Finally I suspected that it was the KO low profile servo that wasn't centering properly. Swapped it for another KO servo and the problem was solved.

I ran Jaco Blue rubber premounts on the front and greens in the rear. After a days worth of racing at WCRC the blues were well worn. The greens were still fresh. This car really makes good traction. The fun part about it was that I gave my buddy a good run for the money with his XRay T2 009. I made sure to remind him that most everything on my car was plastic.

Right now the only thing keeping me from the top spot is the fact that I don't have a Tekin RS for 17.5. I was able to pick-up a used SPX to replace my extremely slow Novak GTB. Depite the most aggressive profile and the tallest gearing short of over temping, it still wasn't fast enough. The JS was a dream to drive in the infield but was no match once it hit the straights.

I think I might try 13.5 instead to see if there is less disparity with the have and have-nots of the Tekin RS. Hopefully the speed of the 13.5 will level the playing field more.

Hi everyone,

I new to TM E4. Bought from my friends E4Ep. Just wondering besides original side belts what belts can fit the side belt, i mean from other models, appreciate the help

cheers

http://www.hobbitec.se/index.php?opt...tory&Itemid=10

To solve the Lipo problem!

HPI A748

Thanks

what washers are you guys using to shim up the top deck. ive got an older e4 ep and im going to shim the deck to get the lipo to fit, i was wondering what washers i need to get?