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Old 03-15-2008, 11:11 PM   #811
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Thanks for the info. I did look at the TM site and it doesn't really give an insight as to the different cars and which one was the higher end chassis.

From what you have replied with, I take that if I purchased an E4 it would be the RS version as the original is no longer available, is that right?

Where is the best place to buy one from. Im in Australia but we mostly have to buy offshore due to ridiculous pricing here, so any o/s store with good service and pricing.

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Aaron
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Old 03-15-2008, 11:51 PM   #812
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What hop ups and spares would be considered a nessasary purchase with this car?

Cheers
Aaron
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Old 03-16-2008, 01:30 AM   #813
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Aaron,

Both of these shops have the original E4 plus the rubber spec car:

http://rc-mushroom.com/index.php?cPa...a&filter_id=41

http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?cPath=52_105

I run the original but I think the RS car would be better due to improvements made in some areas, such as lighter drivetrain components etc.

As for spares, like all cars you'd probably need to carry arms, hub carriers, driveshaft blades, & spare belts.
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Old 03-16-2008, 02:20 AM   #814
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Thanks Jason.

I didnt get a chance to check out your car at the Interclub, but as Im going to be running lipo, brushless stock, looking at this car it appears to be a good platform for that class.

What is it's transmission ratio, it's not on gearchart as yet?

Cheers
Aaron

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Old 03-16-2008, 03:57 AM   #815
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The original E4 is 2.0588, not sure if the RS car is different.
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Old 03-16-2008, 02:27 PM   #816
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Quote:
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The original E4 is 2.0588, not sure if the RS car is different.
the FS is 1.888 the RS and the Original E4 are 2.0588
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Old 03-16-2008, 02:33 PM   #817
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Originally Posted by zacabrandy View Post
What hop ups and spares would be considered a nessasary purchase with this car?

Cheers
Aaron
the only hop up I recommend is the KFactory rear 1.5degree hubs, besides that I dont think the car needs any upgrades , as far as spares i recommend at least 1 set of front and rear arms,steering hubs and some drive shaft blades. If you have a issues with your rear driveshaft blades coming out try this modification, I used the cap of a sharpie marker and cut it about 5mm long and slid them over the rear diff, its a perfect fit and with this mod i have no problems with the rear blades

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Old 03-16-2008, 05:00 PM   #818
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Thanks guy's, the more I look into this car the more it becomes confusing as to what is the best option.

I have since learned that the 3mm bottom chassis plate is the way to go now for outdoor, asphalt rubber tyre racing.

Seems there is a trend in all cars to go back to a stiffer chassis, where before we were all looking for chassis flex for the above conditions.

How do you change the rear toe settings on this car, are the parts included in the kit to do so and also how do you adjust the lower roll centres?

Cheers
Aaron
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Old 03-16-2008, 05:09 PM   #819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zacabrandy View Post
Thanks guy's, the more I look into this car the more it becomes confusing as to what is the best option.

I have since learned that the 3mm bottom chassis plate is the way to go now for outdoor, asphalt rubber tyre racing.

Seems there is a trend in all cars to go back to a stiffer chassis, where before we were all looking for chassis flex for the above conditions.

How do you change the rear toe settings on this car, are the parts included in the kit to do so and also how do you adjust the lower roll centres?

Cheers
Aaron
Hi Aaron...If you're running outdoor asphalt, just get the E4RS, like Marcos suggested. Dont complicate your self...get an RS and have fun!!! We'll be here to help you with any info or set up tips you need.

Toe settings can be done with what's included in the kit. you dont need different parts. Everything you need for asphalt racing is included in the kit an the kit set up is a good starting point or use Marcos Jennings set up which proven and works even better.

Roll center is adjusted like any other car. Camber links or by shimming suspension mounts on the chassis.

Later,

Yohan
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Old 03-16-2008, 05:41 PM   #820
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Thanks guy's.

The guy's from Wolf Hobbies are helping out with this as well. I just want to get the most track ready version first off.

Im not entirely convinced on the 3mm bottom chassis concept but I must admit a lot of guy's have gone back to the carpet chassis on their TC5's with some success, so there must be something in it.

What size lipo's will fit this car....HardCase that is. Will the Core 5000 fit or similar?

And whats the performance and tranny ratio difference between the 2 sets of pulleys ie: 34 rear,front tooth pulleys - 17 tooth centre and the 35/18 in same combo?

Cheers
Aaron
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Old 03-16-2008, 07:05 PM   #821
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Hi guys:

First off, again, it is just amazing to me how great you guys are at helping one another out. This is the spirit that we at Wolf Hobbies are working to provide as well. We received a lot of email and phone calls about the limited options available with the two follow-on kits (the FS and RS). They're unhappy with having to be told what kind of front drive they have to use. In addition the FS guys were unhappy that there were not ANY options for them as the internal ratio was different and there was not a front 1 way or spool available for them. We stepped in and created the /C series for them and in turn everyone else who like to buy what they run without having to buy any expensive 1 ways, spools, or diffs just to get the car that they want to drive. The following is my opinion and brutally honest. So this is what is available:

E4 Hands down the best value of the bunch. Hundreds of dollars in aluminum for about $30.00 extra. Comes with the convertible (independent, coupled and spool in 1) 1 way. Very competitive right out of the box but it is not going to be as competitive as some of the specialized cars.

E4RS The production version of the E4. Many of the aluminum part replaced with plastic. Only comes with a spool. If you want a 1 way it will cost you (503131 and 503132) about $81.00. If you want a diff (P/N 503904) it will cost you $18.95. Great car. You can tune it for any kind of track but it is not possible to make it stiffer without changing the bottom deck.

E4FS The "foam spec" car. Designed to be specialized for foam tires on carpet. One of the features is the thicker (by .5 mm) bottom and solid top deck. It was also orphaned by the internal ratio which did not allow owners to use anything but a front diff. We rectified this by offering a free pulley change-out for anyone who wanted to run something other than the front diff. The cost of the front spool (503234) is over $30.00. and the 1 way (my favorite way to roll on the rug) diff will again cost you about $81.00 extra

E4FS/CD Lowest price kit of all. Uses the 3mm bottom deck and the 2.5mm top deck. The top deck is CNC machined with 2 reliefs to make it more complient. It also has the twin arm steering and the common 2.0588 internal ratio. If you are looking for more compliance than is gained by the top deck cutouts all you need to do is remove the front outer standoffs. FYI: in a blind test our driver could not tell the difference between the 2mm top deck with one cutout and the 2.5 with 2 cutouts. If you want to make this car more compliant it is very easy. If you want to make a softer car stiffer... well that pretty much means you have to change the bottom deck to this one.

E4FS/CS Like the /CD but with a front spool.

E4FS/C1 Like the /CD but with a 1 way included at a MUCH lower total cost.

As I mentioned earlier, this is my opinion. It is our way to satisfy as many customers as possible. We received a lot of emails and calls complaining that the car is just too expensive. We listened and we stepped up to the plate and gave you what you asked for. Did we come up with the perfect solution for everyone? Of course not. But what we did do was give everyone the option of getting what they want right from the start. You do not need to pay for parts you don't want. If it turns out that there is another variation necessary we will make that one next. At this time we are also working on a drift car, and a "limited slip" diff. We have sent out samples of the diff for field testing. We will let you all know how that turns out.

Thanks

Wolf
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Old 03-16-2008, 08:13 PM   #822
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Questions??

Hey Marcos J, is the hardware getting some surface rust? Just curious

Thanks
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Old 03-16-2008, 09:32 PM   #823
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Hey Marcos J, is the hardware getting some surface rust? Just curious

Thanks
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Old 03-16-2008, 09:39 PM   #824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zacabrandy View Post
Thanks guy's.

The guy's from Wolf Hobbies are helping out with this as well. I just want to get the most track ready version first off.

Im not entirely convinced on the 3mm bottom chassis concept but I must admit a lot of guy's have gone back to the carpet chassis on their TC5's with some success, so there must be something in it.

What size lipo's will fit this car....HardCase that is. Will the Core 5000 fit or similar?

And whats the performance and tranny ratio difference between the 2 sets of pulleys ie: 34 rear,front tooth pulleys - 17 tooth centre and the 35/18 in same combo?

Cheers
Aaron
The car is great with the stock chassis, some guys prefer the stiffer chassi, both will work great just with the stiffer chassis you will make the suspencion work a little more than letting the thinner chassis do mosdt of the work.

With the aid of so shims (2.5mm to 3mm) under the top deck I can fit the Core RC 5000 with ease.

As far as the internal ratios I prefer the 2.059 because ut gives me a better ratio range for mod racing.
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Old 03-16-2008, 09:50 PM   #825
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Default kyosho korea cup

i got second position in Korea Kyosho Cup.

i realized the importance of Batteries!!

E4, LRP 4.0, LRP TC, Much-More AT32 Tire, IB 4600 Zapping 6 Cell.


in this circuit.. Korea Nation EP race will be held in next month

the race rule of battery is only 5-cell.
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