Mine is a little stiffer up front than most. I tried it softer, but the car liked to roll too much in the corners.

Guys,

Firts of all outstanding thread with great info...I pretty much decided to get a TM EJ to run in Trans Am class...and play with.

I am military and don't get to race too often that is why I chose it over the "better ones"...is this a mistake?

As far as gearing (my biggest concern) I appreciate all the thread ideas for spurs/pinions but what brand are you using? I know I will have to get a small spur and large pinion...but what exact brand (part #'s?)...that way I can order the pinion/spurs when I order the car. I will be running 21.5 TA

I have TRF shocks...plan on using them...just like em' Thanks for all the info.

http://www.robinsonracing.com
http://www.precisionracingsystems.com

Either of these companies are very good, just find the desired spur or pinion and order therm from there, personally I ordered one of each from 84 up to 120 in the spurs, and then from 13 up to 51 in pinions.

OK and both brands fit no problem? 48 and 64pp?

Paul

My concern is the ROOM that you can slide your motor forward and backward on the E4 series...that is one of the bad design they did. Especially on brushless motor, E4 is design based on brushed motor, not brushless...if you are using FLAT EDGE endbell brushless motor like Speed Passion or Trinity...you might have problem sliding the motor forward and backward, that also related to your choice of pinion/spur...On my E4RS, it is a PAIN to use some specific brushless motor...horrible design (but I understand this car was based on some old brushed motor concept)

Drop your motor in and see how far you can move around...then decide on your final drive via the 4.2 FDR rule on USVTA then choose your spur then your pinion.

Sorry guys,
I should have clarified.
I am considering one of the K Factory spring sets, the ones with 10 sets. The problem is that they are not numbered by mm or lbs. They just simply have numbers like #31,32,33, and so on.

I will most likely be running rubber on pavement in 17.5,13.5 and 10.5 brushless classes on lipo at ROAR minimum weight. I was hoping that one of the box sets will cover the most common scenarios for this setup. Probably my question should be, does anyone know how I can find what the conversion would be?

I have the E4 C1 and I can tell you that if you are running a LiPo 5000 you are going to need about 6 oz. of lead to make weight. What I did was purchase a 6 cell NiMh Orion 5300 and fully loaded and ready to race is 1530 grams. I love this car . Its so smooth and quiet. I would have thought it would be a bit niosy . the only issue I have so far is that I need a metal Pro diff in the rear for the sticky carpet we race on here. Ok and the hub carriers have a lot of bearing slop in them too. But this car is trick. By far the best sway bar set up ever on any r/c .

As far as I can tell the 20 ia about 12 pounds. every sucessive number represents a apoximately a one pound increment. Currently I have 26/22 f/r
but im still playin with all that as I have only driven it 4 times so far. Wheres my steel LiPo tray anyways ?

haha...thx chris..now i know where he got the parts to beat me..lol..just kidding..

64 Pitch:

I run a 94/46 for 4.2 up to a 94/40 for a 4.8. I run PRS gears. They fit perfectly.

Thanks guys...like I said appreciate all the info.

Steel Lipo tray?
I've got one on my car if that's what you mean...
It's a nice piece but I had to blast the crappy paint off of it and powdercoat it with satin black. Looks sweet now!!

So then, regarding the springs, you would suggest the #31-#40 kit?

Well.. I race carpet and its usually pretty sticky.
Personally I own the #21-#30 kit. It is a very nice set of springs indeed!

I may run on carpet from time to time. The TC is actually what I'd run for fun since my main focus during the on season is 1/8 on road.
Do you think there may be a reason to get the #31-#40 kit or should the #21-#30 kit cover most conditions?


Thanks

the softer springs are the choice for rubber tires . 21-30.