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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
(Post 14523268)
I wouldn't bother, unless you were racing all the time, looking for every possible advantage and obsessed with owning all the stupid parts.
Drop the camber link to the lower and you'll have very close to the same net effect. |
In theory...maybe. Haven't tried it. Besides, I'm the King of stupid parts (with a few Ozzie exceptions). I've got M04 sway bars! I've a one way diff for an M chassis and 5 kinds of spools! My crowning achievement: I've got a Chevron M03 rear mounted steering servo kit on the way. Oh, and that 3D printed dearie that converts an M04 to rear motor.
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
(Post 14522800)
Are the DCJ axles from the 84424 kit available separately yet?
Nope, and they may never be, just like the M06R lower suspension bracket and wheel weights. |
If you really want a set of DCJ's there are always the ones by Arrowmax , they have been round for a while.
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Originally Posted by marcos graveyar
(Post 14523795)
Nope, and they may never be, just like the M06R lower suspension bracket and wheel weights.
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Hey does anyone have any sources to get the linkage kit from 3 racing? I can't find them anywhere. It was such a good kit to make everything adjustable.....and I have misplaced the spanner it came with to adjust them. 3 racing is sold out online too....
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...Can you use those arms on the lowest hole too? In theory it would be the most aggressive option right? But having just switched from top to bottom hole and pushing on my front shock as I turn the tire i can see how the new angle keeps the front tire in a more upright position w/ a slight camber ...whereas before I didn't get that same angle. So this looks promising as a quick fix to my scrubbing issue at high speeds around corners. Will let you know what happens at my next event not til 1st week of June ...I am skipping a few in May for a wedding and some other weekend events my wife has planned ;) |
Sakadachi ...what no GTR for me?
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
(Post 14523941)
Hey does anyone have any sources to get the linkage kit from 3 racing? I can't find them anywhere. It was such a good kit to make everything adjustable.....and I have misplaced the spanner it came with to adjust them. 3 racing is sold out online too....
It doesn't give you adjustable front upper arms, but you can set rear camber and front toe. You can pretty much hack the Tamiya kit together from spare 5mm adjusters and some set screws. The fronts are harder to do, as there's not much space to work with, but between the option arms that Tamiya offers and the upper and lower pivot holes, you should be able to achieve what you need to. If you're really determined, you could look for other 3Racing linkage kits that include the teensy little 7mm ball ends and 10mm turnbuckles, or any old 10mm grub screw, for the front uppers. |
I have lots left from the kit. I was too excited and just jammed the toe links in and left the rest off in the box because I wanted to set the toe and tinker a bit. I'll look into this for sure!
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earlier on I posted about the steering rod being longer than the stated length in the manual. I am guessing it has to do with the steering horn being taller. this means that the steering rod has to be longer.
I mean, I am adjusting my steering based on how far the front knuckles can turn without the servo making noise and that both knuckles steering to the same degree. not sure if this is the right way of adjusting. |
Originally Posted by novaris
(Post 14525138)
earlier on I posted about the steering rod being longer than the stated length in the manual. I am guessing it has to do with the steering horn being taller. this means that the steering rod has to be longer.
I mean, I am adjusting my steering based on how far the front knuckles can turn without the servo making noise and that both knuckles steering to the same degree. not sure if this is the right way of adjusting. Jim made this wonderful piece of art a while ago to demonstrate the issue: http://www.rctech.net/forum/14162639-post25566.html |
I can't take credit for that. The original was drawn on a cave wall, using crude pigments and wooly mammoth poop, about 40,000 years ago. I just copied it using an app called iCavePoopArt.
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Originally Posted by gigaplex
(Post 14525150)
I'm not sure if you missed it, but others have already mentioned that the horn should NOT be at 90 degrees to the servo (ignore the manual on this, it's wrong). It should be 90 degrees to the rod. Once you've confirmed that, adjust the length of the rod to work best for you, the instructions should just be used as a starting point.
Jim made this wonderful piece of art a while ago to demonstrate the issue: http://www.rctech.net/forum/14162639-post25566.html Wtf Why isn't this corrected on tamiya's manuals? I took it out to measure again and it's about 80degrees (horn to rod) according to the protractor and the steering rod length is 81.8mm But if the horn to rod angle is 90 wouldn't that have a steering bias of some sort? I have the same issue with my cc01. Manual states the steering rod should be of a specified length but the servo horn angle is unspecified. All the manual says is to follow the vague diagram on it. I installed the 51000 servo saver and tried my best to follow the manual but i got uneven steering. Steering left would hit any obstacle much earlier than steering right. |
No because the horn is what turns the steering. You want that even on both sides or it will be like a windshield wiper system...you start to loose the swing near the top of the revolution....which is why a windshield wiper motor turns full revolution and your wipers don't spin all the way in a circle....if that makes any sense to you. The geometry is square when you have the rod 90 degrees to the servo horn. I'm no teacher and for his reason exactly. ...terrible at explaining things lol
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