Hey does anyone use the rear aluminum knuckles? Wondering if they would be worth the money? And how much toe in the rear end is good?. Looks like it has toe in on the rear

I love living in the future. 3D printed mini parts!

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...psqzczoui9.jpg

Jim, is there a material suitable to make suspension arms? Thanks.

The stuff I got is probably okay. There are quite a few suspension arms available on the site. Mostly for vintage buggies, but there are a few newer style pieces. This material is called "nylon, strong and flexible". It's a laser sintered nylon powder. Feels a bit like Delrin. Seems to have taken threads pretty well.

Shim question
 

I know this is a basic question but does anyone know what size shims fit on m05 rear axles?

5mm inside diameter. I get packs of the assorted size grey Teflon ones Traxxas makes. They're cheap, 0.5mm thick and they work.

Cool 3D parts, monkeyracing! Keep us posted how they hold up.

Totally agree with monkey racing. I have them and used them. And they take a lot of the wheel slop out....however you need a little bit with these minis I find

http://i.imgur.com/wDet2e5.jpg
ok I tried to angle the servo horn 90deg to the rod and this is the best i got. it's around 87.5deg, positioning 1 notch right would exceed 90deg by a bit

I used a vernier caliper to measure the steering rod and I got exactly 79mm.

but when I connected it to the controls, there is a little binding when steering left and a little gap between the knuckle and c hub when steering right.

I am using the same level of steering throw as per the previous setup (where steering rod is 81.7mm)

let me clarify one thing. i'm not trying to prove anything to anyone. I just want to get this steering thing sorted out because this affects all my tamiya cars, xv01, cc01, tt02 x2, humvee, scania truck, ta03fs x2,

this is how my original steering setup is like.

https://youtu.be/EySgyv8Hy2U

as you can see at the end of the video, I followed the manual's instructions and steering rod length is 81.7mm

Newbie05,
The aluminum rear hubs offer more tuning options than the plastic ones. The more toe in you have in the rear the straighter a line your car will keep (it will feel less twitchy). However you will sacrafice speed w more toe in. So you have to find a balance. I originally started w the 3.0 rear hubs when I was first racing. After I was really comfortable w my car I went to the 1.5 hubs. That's where I am at now, they keep my car planted and offer the right amount of speed on the straights. I don't recall what the stock plastic hubs are, -maybe 2 degree toe in??

As for strength I think the plastic are just as good as the aluminum. I haven't really heard of anyone breaking the plastic rear hubs. Like I said, mostly for tuning options.

Ya it's funny my left rear looks more toed in than the right side but when I square the chassis against a flat edge and look it seems the same as the other side....has to be my eyes. I think I'll save my money for now.

Another question about toe....does anyone have spacers in between and have the toe links fully touching? I just have my 3 racing links threaded in and then bare threads showing with a gap between each peice (inner and outer )....does anyone use the spacers and have them fully tightened in or is the exposed threads fine the way it is?

A setup station would help you w/ that. Yet another expense! ...I lived w/o one for a long time, but once I got a setup station it made my life so much easier. It helps to make every setting on the car precise.


...not sure I follow exactly, do you mean the threaded turnbuckles w/ the ball joints on each end (that connect to the tops of the rear hubs)??? If so, it doesn't matter if the threads are showing. I use a thin spacer though so that I am sure each side is exactly the same length ...yet you can achieve same length using a caliper tool also. I just find it easier w/ the spacers as I can put extra in/take them out at a race easily. I use Tamiya spacers, they come in various widths down to like 0.5mm.

No the links from the steering rack to the front hubs the threaded peice between the 2 links attached to ball pins for front toe. Do you have spacers in there that take up the space or is it just empty with the threads showing? The stock kit they show a little I'm sure....maybe a 3mm gap....ish lol

ah gotcha, My upper ones have a spacer for sure, but don't recall what I did for the steering links (I can tell you when I get home later today). However I can say that again it doesn't matter if you leave the threads exposed or use spacers. The spacers don't do anything except make it easy to have both sides same length. ...yet you can measure w/ calipers.