Spacers in the Toe links help prevent the ball cup from skipping a thread if you hit a wall. Try 2mm to start (about 2 degrees toe out). Adding a 0.5mm will roughly get you 0.5 degree more toe in. Removing 0.5mm with roughly get you 0.5 degree toe out.

First thing: Disregard the measurement of the length of the rod. I know, you're a guy. We're all hung up on this one, but just try.

With the servo saver disconnected from the servo, car powered on, the servo centred and the front wheels dead straight, test to see what angle you get with the saver/rod when test fitting to servo. If it is not 90 degrees, remove servo saver, adjust it in or out appropriately on the rod and try again. Rinse and repeat as needed.

The length of rod between the connectors is completely inconsequential. Forget it.

Ah, did not know that. Yet never had it happen cuz' i've always had a spacer on my toe links. :)

this is the best I got after trying to fit
it should be 92.5deg, not 87.5 as posted earlier (using ball connector on horn as centre and between centre of metal screw and rod)

http://i.imgur.com/wDet2e5.jpg

when everyone advised me to adjust the saver to rod angle to 90 deg, what about the steering rod's length? keep as per tamiya manual or adjust accordingly? because I assumed that I should keep the length as per manual, given that nothing has been said about it and everyone's talking about about the saver/rod angle

You're in the right ballpark now, so it's just a matter of fine tuning of both the link lengths and radio settings until the car performs consistently in both directions. Don't worry if your left and right EPA settings aren't exactly the same, but you probably don't want them off by 50%.

That's not the only place the manual is wrong, believe me.

Wheels straight, rod at 90* to servo saver, life is good. Steering rod length is a meaningless variable. It can be affected by many factors, so it's best ignored. If you're off by a degree or two, I wouldn't sweat it.

Yup servo looks perfect novaris....fine tune it and let her fly!

I just cut out my RS1 body and learned A LOT of do nots! I tried using a razor blade to score the outlines and break it off and it worked great....until the first wheel well....got cut in half into the body.....Fml. it's not terrible but it's gonna need some tlc haha. I used an exacto knife after that and by the last wheel well I got the hang of things and got em almost perfect for using a straight edge. For my first from scratch body I'm not too ashamed to put it on but there's still plenty to screw up. But as for using a razor blade with no handle. ....don't do it unless your a pro pinstriper. The lexan just grabs to much and then it slips and gouges. Couldn't wait to buy a modeling exacto blade and we'll. ...it got f×××ed lol

I like the Excel K17 Art Knife, part #16017. Has protective cover and spare blades.

I'd suggest using curve-tipped scissors for cutting out wheel wells.

I place either a 0.5, 1.0 or 1.5mm spacer on the front linkage, depending on the tyres and surface I am running. I run more front toe out on my MO5 V1 and V2 than I did on my M03.

With more front toe out the car is more stable and runs straight for me.

-true, ...however the more toe out in front and toe in rear the less speed you'll have ...so you have to find a balance that works for you. I am running about 1degree or less front toe out and 1.5degree toe in rear.

Is there any stock brushed motors that could be swapped in that are faster than the stock silver can. It's gonna be a while to get the brushless one but I'm thinking I'm gonna get a traxxas slash brushless and keep the mini brushed

Anything with less turns will run faster. 12 turns will be a little nutty. Nothing wrong with nutty.

Oooooooo 12 turns....I like nutty. Smooth peanut butter just isn't that good. Get em pretty cheap eh? Will the stock esc take a lower turn motor?