Is this just a artist rendering or a actual spy drawing? I'm very interested in M07 at the moment

How close to real 1/10th are Tamiya cars? Find out...

https://www.facebook.com/pg/rcmini.n...06292446285627

me thinks this is a decent edit to make it look like a 'sketch'.. has been confirmed this is what it will look like..

Probably Tamiyas artsy-fartsy way of sending the message that this 'started from a clean sheet of paper'...

Just keep it clean and reapply if it wears thin.

Looks like they took their CAD rendering and ran it through a sketch filter in Photoshop or something.

This totally worked, thanks.

Probably Tamiyas artsy-fartsy way of sending the message that this 'started from a clean sheet of paper'...[/QUOTE]

So far digging the design, at least on paper M07 basically addressed every single design issue I have with the M05v2. I think this time they finally designed a chassis for dedicated racers. I feel M05 is more intended to be a mass production semi toy grade RC than a racing chassis. But then again will it take away the fun of tuning something not intended for racing in the first place to be race worthy like the old minis?

I'm afraid, yes.

It does look more dedicated and serious, doesn't it? Still, in the realm of "serious" touring cars, the TA07 is still considered a toy. Maybe this is somewhere in between. Something I'm not seeing, so far, is much room for RX and ESC placement.

One thing I'm interested in seeing is how the longer arms pan out. Third parties such as Yeah Racing have had these conversion kits for a while now, and just about every time I've read about someone trying them, they've reported that the shorter arms actually work better. Will the M07 long arms have a similar issue?

Nerobro,

If you can run worn M grips up front and new on the rear.

M05 V2 likes more front toe out to be stable. Rear camber I have found the less the better and car likes less rear toe in. I run only 1 degree on my car. I use a front shock tower with the shock on the 2nd outer hole and on the rear 1 hole out from standard. I only fit my shocks to the standard positions.

I use a TOP racing oil gear diff with spacers to prevent side to side movement within the chassis and use 300k oil. I have found this diff to be better than the 3Racing product for me. Not TCS legal though.

On carpet you may want to dial out some of your steering and you need to be smooth with your inputs. Very easy to roll the car with quick steering input.

I build my shocks to be 56.5mm top to bottom and do not use the droop screws. Personal choice for me. I use Tamiya TRF shocks but again my choice. I use Tamiya hopups after the amount of issues I have seen with other aftermarket parts, that can be tweaked but you can not see. Although they have gotten better.

Just my thoughts.

50 Cal.

now to go hibernate for awhile.

I really miss Granpa in this thread.

If they are using a TAO6 gear with 52 teeth and same gear box internals the closest you can get to 5.8 fdr is 5.88 with the max size new pinion. However they would need to fit a different spur gear to get 5.88. I could be off the mark but a 65T spur would work with a 24 tooth pinion then multiply by 2.17 internal ratio. Hopefully they will fiddle with the intermediary gears to get a better fdr.

My concern with the FDR is that if this really is tailored for the modern "serious" racer, it'll have an FDR more appropriate for brushless motors. The current FDR was designed around brushed motors.

Could always fit a speed set to the M05 or M03. The Gambado and Top 2WD car both had option parts to get 5.8 gearing to match the Tamiya mini. Just both were better cars and showed the limitations of the M05/M03 chassis.

Don't worry guys. I'm sure Tamiya overengineered the M07 so they could sell us a bunch of aluminum and carbon parts. :D

I think we can be reasonably sure the other gears in the gearbox will be different than the current ones. This looks like a clean sheet design, with maybe a few compatible bits.