-are you referring to the shock tower holes OR the 2 holes that are on the front "uprights" (I think that is what Tamiya calls them ...the front hubs).

I believe he was referring to the holes in the chassis where the upper links mount. This will probably give you a little more static camber and increase camber gain. I'm using the 0.5mm shorter upper arms Tamiya offers. The effect is similar, but I don't think the camber gain is as great.

While we are on the camber issue is the rear camber upgrades really worth it? Does anyone have these or recommend them... I've seen them and wonder if it's worth the bank?

You got it Jim. Those are the holes I was referring to. Thanks for posting the pic. Much better visuals than what I was trying to make. LOL

Eric: I found that this small 30 second change affected my roll centre, which gave my vehicle less "scrubbing" properties. Upon doing this minor change, I found my car has MUCH more steering, versus when using the "top" hole. If it doesn't work to your liking, you will realize it after one lap, and can change it back in 30 seconds.

hey guys I ran into a snag building my m5 chassis not sure if I got something wrong but if you look at steps 17-19 on page 11 of the manual for doing the short wheel base if I follow along with the instructions it doesn't seem to wanna work right. In the pic the ball connector nuts face towards front of chassis that go into the vertical plate that adjust the chassis length and the ball connector that go into the rear knuckle faces towards the rear of the chassis and when I try to connect the adjuster to this it puts the whole rear arms at a odd angle. In the pic the adjuster lines up perfect but not on my chassis.

EDIT: Nevermind (facepalm) figured out I had the bottom plate on backwards but now I'm not sure what to do with the droop screw that attaches to the inside of the lower arms as with the plate spun around the right way there is no where for it to go and creates interference with mounting the lower arms to the chassis?

EDIT 2 : Nevermind again (double facepalm) really need to stop building when I'm half asleep figured out the second issue after looking at the chassis / manual for like 5 minutes scratching my head lol if nothing else I hope I brought some entertainment and made someone laugh at me

Just don't forget when installing the gears, to chuck in the tiny shim Tamiya felt it necessary to add. I and many others have screwed that one up. (step 4, part BA12, backside of the spur gear. )Can't figure out why they did that. A boss on the motor plate was shaved down by 1.6mm so they added a 1.6mm shim to the kit. Boggles the mind.

Yah I almost did miss that step. I came across reading a post that mentioned it and went back its easy to miss if your not looking for it.

ah, thanks MOnkeyRacing + 000000000

Yes, I too am using the low friction .5mm upper arms. I will look for that extra hole ;) -i like that i can make this adjustment in the first heat then keep or switch back.

Wait, so you changed the mounting from the top screw hole to the hole directly below it,
And that gave you a lot more steering???

Because my onroad season is on hiatus till October, I guess discussing setup is the next best thing!

If you're running top 3 at your club you obviously know how to drive so this is just an exchange of ideas.

High grip asphalt....

I've 99% run on carpet so I'm assuming it's "sort of" the same when grip comes up. Please correct me if I'm wrong as I would learn something about asphalt I don't know much about. My experience in Touring Cars with more grip whether carpet or tires is my car with a soft setup leans too much which scrubs speed. I'm thinking a stiffer setup (springs / oil) would help make the car lean less which works on my TC.

I'm also stuck on the premise that awesome initial steering and corner speed is king in mini assuming everyone has 'almost' the same motor/esc/battery and even tires. Hate getting beat on the straight especially by someone thinking they are a better driver cause they got a faster car than they really are. Sad actually. I digress, but anyways....

So in your setup, I would consider trying:
- S-Grips front (I find A-Grips more grip than S-Grips. They also produce a ring of death pretty fast)
- softer front sway (I run none cause I want the most grip but soft sway bar may settle the car down but then in touring car it's usually harder front sway but that might be due to 4wd, heavier chassis, more speed? Someone enlighten me on this)
- yellow or even blue front spring AND blue or white (hardest) rear. My thought is for the front the car won't lean into the corner as much and for the rear I want the car to swing around faster so less lean.
- so follow up is hard rear sway bar to take grip away from the rear
- oil 30 or more. I'm assuming the temperatures you run in are warmer than indoor? More dampening and less lean.
- lower and lightest body. I've only run 3 bodies ever (civic, truck, swift). Obvious makes a difference but not to much to me.
- minimum front droop. So oring in front shock. Not so much for more on power steering but more so there's less weight transfer to the rear on acceleration so there's more weight on the front tires and since front wheel drive, more grip in front to accelerate.
- maximum rear droop. For max weight transfer to front tires for off power steering. So no oring in rear shocks.

I think a really big change for me when I had my M05v1 was kit tires rear. Instead of chasing more front grip or lack of steering or lack of corner speed or even too much 'lean' was kit tires rear. Less rear grip and the car rotated awesome.

Just throwing some ideas out there...

Ivan

I've wanted one of these since they were released. Seriously thinking about picking one up in July. How do they do for good around large paved parking lots with lots of uneven surfaces and cracks?

Here is an idea: no swaybars, blue rears, yellow fronts, no rear shock droop, lowest weight everything, widest track width possible, CA everywhere... No braking ever before turns....

That's the way my Dad (KA2AEV) drives!

Finally got most of the kinks worked out of the chassis just waiting on RX/Lipo to show up

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g3...w1855-h1043-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LF...=w587-h1043-no

If you're just putzing around parking lots, etc. they're plenty of fun. Handling out of the box is a little alright and setup at full ride height, it'll handle cracked surfaces fine.