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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-13-2017, 02:50 PM
  #1561  
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Originally Posted by AntH3000 View Post
Under acceleration on carpet this distribution is great, but on corner entry and mid corner I'm not convinced based upon the tyre width offset front / rear. Nice to see those figures on vertical wheel forces under acceleration.
Simple math, no worries.

I watched the Jason Snyder video and agree with you, the car over uses the front tires simply because there's more load on them. To be fair nothing seemed bad, the opposite actually. The car stays on it's nose and the rear rotates willingly and locks in when on power, it's natural to most drivers. Still 52:48 might change in the future to become 50:50 once the team starts to figure it out.
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
you know at some point, maybe companies should just not include the plastic horns and include what appears to be the industry standard 25T.

Spoke with Amain, they are looking to find out the part # on the horn.
Probably because most servos include an aluminum horn in the box that they ship with. I am using the horn that came with my protek servo. So why would manufactures include it when the servo companies already do.
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I am talking about the protek part # for the horn someone mentioned could be used. So not this: TKR6563A

Nowever if that Ruddog horn works I have 2 of them here to try out when time comes. Cheap too, heck was $8.99 at one point.
Mine was the horn that came with the servo..

https://www.protekrc.com/2014/12/18/...al-gear-servo/
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Old 10-13-2017, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BaggedRanger View Post
Probably because most servos include an aluminum horn in the box that they ship with. I am using the horn that came with my protek servo. So why would manufactures include it when the servo companies already do.
ProTek is the only one that I know of that does that, and only on the higher end servos.
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Old 10-13-2017, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
Yup it worked for me as well.
Luck for me I have a couple of those Protek horns
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Old 10-13-2017, 04:27 PM
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awesome build



ready to go..

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Old 10-13-2017, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by snowninja View Post
awesome build



ready to go..

Looks sweet!
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:35 PM
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So has anyone run this yet on med to high bight clay? Thoughts?
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by snowninja View Post
i did the same! lol was like WTF then realized what happened.
Add me to this group!
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by E-Mann View Post
A few build notes:

And for anyone who is curious neither xb4 or b64 center slipper will work on this kit. The xb4 is close and I think with some tweaking could fit. It's about 2mm too long in Stock form.
So then...
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Old 10-14-2017, 07:06 AM
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Two extra holes drilled on top of stock mount...voila. <br/>Maybe Tekno should just do that from the start!?!

Now I can run the 81t with a 30 pinion!
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Old 10-14-2017, 07:39 AM
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Does that clear the body? Is that a kinda chowed pinnion against that new spur gear? Sweet ride.
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Old 10-14-2017, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jasburrito View Post
Does that clear the body? Is that a kinda chowed pinnion against that new spur gear? Sweet ride.
Honestly haven't done a body fit yet. But its almost in the same position for the most part as it would be if mounted with the CF top plate. So I don't see why it wouldn't fit.

Ha ha, that is an old pinion. I have a new one in route, I was just trying to get the spacing down atm. Good eye!!

Not running this until it is 100% complete. I still have to build the shocks and add the cf parts I am waiting for.
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Old 10-14-2017, 08:33 AM
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anyone get a notice from tower? status went from Mid Oct to on order. Mainly curious if your orders drop to processing.
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Old 10-14-2017, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by DG Designs View Post
So then...
If it's 21mm between the inside of where the bearings sit it could work. That is what I measured on the tekno center diff.
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