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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-15-2017, 06:33 AM
  #1591  
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Anyone run this buggy on carpet yet?
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Old 10-15-2017, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by nmdesertracer View Post
Anyone run this buggy on carpet yet?
Lutz bornhorst and eppley did in Las Vegas at iiocc
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Old 10-15-2017, 06:51 AM
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does the protek 160t low pro servo and servo horn that comes with it work ok also what wheels will work with this buggy thanks
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Old 10-15-2017, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by wrightcs77 View Post
Read they got them in and are shipping Monday
I guess I'm canceling my order! I should have went with Amain or someone else from the beginning like everyone said! Never pre-ordering from Tower again!
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Old 10-15-2017, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by charvel74 View Post
Got it all assembled and a few jumps in my EB410 hit a nose dive landing and snapped the front bulkhead
Bulkhead spares on order: check!
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by charvel74 View Post
Got it all assembled and a few jumps in my EB410 hit a nose dive landing and snapped the front bulkhead
do you notice any bubbling, etc. in where the part broke?

Originally Posted by Fluxit9 View Post
I guess I'm canceling my order! I should have went with Amain or someone else from the beginning like everyone said! Never pre-ordering from Tower again!
The big thing with ordering from tower isn't speed its overall money savings. At this point with how it appears these will ship and miss the E-cash just barely unless something changes, may be worth just waiting till official in.
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by nmdesertracer View Post
Anyone run this buggy on carpet yet?
Mine was running for a few laps on carpet before I crashed it lol. The box setup was decent on carpet with the tires I put on it
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by charvel74 View Post
Got it all assembled and a few jumps in my EB410 hit a nose dive landing and snapped the front bulkhead
do you notice any bubbling, etc. in where the part broke?

No nothing like that
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by charvel74 View Post
Got it all assembled and a few jumps in my EB410 hit a nose dive landing and snapped the front bulkhead
Like Cain said, did you notice any air bubbles in the bulkhead? A " nose dive" landing should not cause such a break. Was the tower seated all the way onto the bulkhead? If not the tower won't have a lot of support and will flop on the bulkhead. Did you happen to overtighten the bottom 2 screws and strip them out? Or if the tower wasn't seated all the way the bottom 2 screws might have barely been engaged.

The only time we broke the bulkhead (before revisions) in that area was when we landed upside down directly on the tower while the car was moving forward, or catching the underside of the drivers stand after jumping off the track.
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug2507 View Post
Started building my kit. Noticed on the rear left hub the stub axle has approx 0.5mm play in it. Other side is nice and tight. Washer between bearing and hex is fitted. Anyone else got this?
Take the axle out of the hub and with the pin out, try to slide the hex fitting all the way down the axle. I had one that was really tight and it was preventing it from seating fully on the pin.
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Like Cain said, did you notice any air bubbles in the bulkhead? A " nose dive" landing should not cause such a break. Was the tower seated all the way onto the bulkhead? If not the tower won't have a lot of support and will flop on the bulkhead. Did you happen to overtighten the bottom 2 screws and strip them out? Or if the tower wasn't seated all the way the bottom 2 screws might have barely been engaged.

The only time we broke the bulkhead (before revisions) in that area was when we landed upside down directly on the tower while the car was moving forward, or catching the underside of the drivers stand after jumping off the track.
I might have stripped one of the bottom 2 holes. I will double check it and get back with you
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:19 AM
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1st practice day on loose bumpy dirt went well. Running 6.5T motor. Started with kit setup except: no sway bar and left droop screws flush for max droop.
Tires: Holeshots in super soft front and rear. With open cell front and aka closed cell rear on tlr 22-4 wheels, Stock hexes.
Changes done in order:
- Ride height to 21 front to match 21 rear (same as my b64d) - not good. Nose high on jumps. Likes nose lower than rear. Back to 18mm front 21 rear.
- Reduced front toe out to 0.5 degree on each side vs. 1.5. Reduced front camber from -2 to -1. More stable but back end wanting to come around on power.
- Shortened wheelbase in rear. Moving both spacers to the back. A little more stable in the rear.
- changed rear toe to 2.5 (from 1.5). D block pills middle out on both sides. Again better still not great.
- Changed front diff oil from 15K to 10K and rear from 7K to 5K. Not as big of improvement as I expected but was better overall. Could drive harder without getting unstable in and out of turns.
- Added weight to rear with Protek stick on 5gram weights. 10gram I could feel the rear getting more settled and bouncing less over bumps. (Maintaining ride height with adjustments). Went to 25. Almost there. Went to 35 and was happy with the balance. Total rtr weight is now right at 1800g.
DAY 2 of testing. Only change was moving rear shocks to inside holes on arms. Helped with bumps.
SETUP SHEET POSTED WITH FINAL SETUP

In one day I was able to adjust the eb410 to be as fast as my b64d I have had all summer to tweak on. I still may try lighter rear shock oil as it isn't quite as stable over the bumps as the b64d with tall rear shocks and vrp valve pistons.

Well done tekno!
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB410 Thread-20171014_174700.jpg   Tekno RC EB410 Thread-screenshot_20171015-142220.jpg  
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Last edited by E-Mann; 10-15-2017 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Like Cain said, did you notice any air bubbles in the bulkhead? A " nose dive" landing should not cause such a break. Was the tower seated all the way onto the bulkhead? If not the tower won't have a lot of support and will flop on the bulkhead. Did you happen to overtighten the bottom 2 screws and strip them out? Or if the tower wasn't seated all the way the bottom 2 screws might have barely been engaged.

The only time we broke the bulkhead (before revisions) in that area was when we landed upside down directly on the tower while the car was moving forward, or catching the underside of the drivers stand after jumping off the track.
I just double checked it. The tower was seated all the way. But the bottom left screw was stripped out. On installation I used my craftsman cordless screwdriver on the lowest torque setting possible. Worked great for 99% of the build. When I replace the bulkhead I do the installation by hand . Love the buggy just sucks I just got it out on the track and with in moments I crashed lol
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:17 AM
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Matthew_Armeni: would it be possible to use a slightly longer screw for more engagement?
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:20 AM
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Big FYI to everyone, the pills are a little different on this car versus our others. A single dot is a half degree and the double dot is a quarter degree. So if you went to single dot out you're actually at 2 degrees of toe. There's a mistake on the setup sheet graphic (it was carried over from the 8th scale stuff.)
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